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NARRATIVE OF A VOYAGE.

CHAPTER I.

CORUNNA.

Departure from England-The Bay of Biscay-Corunna Costumes-Troops-The Hercules Tower-Story of Old Russian George-Visit to the Field of Battle-Sketch of the Action and Retreat Similarity to that of Xenophon-Sir C. Napier-A Fish Market-Appearance of the Country Zoology-A Brigand's Story-Trade-Cigar Manufactory-Hospital- Hereditary Executioners-The Tomb of Moore-Departure from Spain.

THE boats were hoisted to the davits, the anchor catted, and the last cheering note of the sailors' "Ye ho, my hearties, O!" had ceased on board the Crusader yacht on the evening of the 24th of September, 1837, as her light sails bent to the wind, and she slipt past the white cliffs of the Isle of Wight, to seek for her inmates in warmer climes that health which an English winter cannot afford. A nine-knot breeze soon took us out of the chops of the channel to where the god of the stormy water rules with undisputed sway-the sleepless Bay of Biscay-where we rocked and tossed about for the ensuing three days-the wind heading us hourly, and the sea rolling a tremendous swell. Old Neptune seemed to welcome this my first visit to his dominions with all due honours; but notwithstanding the sea-faring philosophy of our own lordly poet, my soul did

"sicken o'er the heaving wave."

How my spirits sank within me when, lying in my birth on the weather-quarter, every swell broke upon the bulwarks, and the scattered wave, splashing over the deck, ran hissing along the vessel's side. What sensations this state begets, especially during those dark and dismal hours of night, when, in addition to the

B

2

THE BAY OF BISCAY.

elemental war without, the ocean's roar, and the howling wind, each bulk-head and spar would express its sufferings in the most mournful complainings! At times, these hitherto plaintive wailings would wax "louder, longer, louder still," till, rising in full chorus, they would become as outrageous and discordant as a menagerie at feeding time;-and then would come an interval of rest-a moment of intense stillness, as if the winds and waves took breathing time, and paused to watch the effect of their last effort upon our gallant bark, or mark how they could best apply the succeeding one.

On Wednesday, a small bird (one of the fly-catchers) hovered about the vessel, at least seventy miles off land: unable to bear up longer, it fluttered a few minutes among the rigging, fell exhausted upon the deck, and died almost immediately. Next day, a dove made its appearance, endeavouring to reach us ;-poor thing! it came, like Noah's of old, not with an olive leaf, and the welcome tidings of land, but to tell us, that she, too, could find "no rest for the sole of her foot." The wind continuing to head us, and freshening into a gale, we made but little way, and, to complete our miseries, the mainmast sprung at the deck! This misfortune was remedied during the day, the mast having been "fished" and rendered secure enough to carry a trysail, under which we made land on the following morning, September 29th, and a more welcome hail never saluted my ears. The sea moderated, and we determined on running into Corunna to refit. How weary one feels on first coming on deck, after a few days' sea-rocking; a lassitude very similar to that experienced in coach-travelling. We had perceived it gradually getting warmer for the last two days, and now the difference of climate was much greater than we could have supposed, from so slight a difference of latitude.

The north-west coast of Galicia, along which now lay our course, is bleak and rugged, though not deserving the term bold or iron-bound. The famous Hercules light, which forms so striking an object on this coast, soon pointed to where the swollen waves of Biscay give place to the calm and secure waters of the united harbours of Corunna and Ferrol. The numberless wind-mills that crown every eminence, in full work, with their snow-white sails glancing in the sun, carried us back to the days of Quixotte and Spanish knight errantry. The sight of them, indeed, always created a smile; and perhaps it may be here

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observed, that much of the extravagance we are inclined to impute to the poor Don, from our notions of the magnitude of wind-mills at home, is greatly diminished by those of this country being so exceedingly small. Many are constructed solely of wood, and, viewed in the indistinctness of twilight, do not require the imagination of even the hero of Cervantes to transform them into giants.

A most wretched pilot-boat came alongside, from the ragged and noisy crew of which we selected a pilot; the similarity in feature, expression, and coal-black hair to those of a like class on the western coast of Ireland, who boast a Spanish origin, struck me instantly. The only peculiarity in costume of these people, besides the invariable red sash and its accompanying chuchilla, was their prodigious wooden shoes, which, on emergency, would almost serve them to float in. I need hardly inform those who have ever entered a foreign port, that our pilot's first inquiry, on coming aboard, was after the rum bottle. Except one of the forts, and a spire or two, there is little of the town seen before entering the harbour; but on rounding the point, the whole bursts upon your view, lying principally along the beech and on the water's edge.

Corunna-that name so stamped on the page of British history -what recollections does it not revive as we ride before these once bristling walls? Within view are the heights, whence so destructive a fire was poured down upon our gallant countrymen, and the tomb of their renowned leader crowns one of the bastions beside After waiting for some hours, the health and excise officers arrived. These officious gentry being satisfied as to the purity of our bills of health, which being in Latin, neither they nor our skipper knew one word of, we were permitted to land.

us.

The harbour is very fine, secure, and almost land-locked; the town forms a crescent around it, and when seen at a little distance, presents a rather novel appearance, owing to the irregularity of the white-washed houses, their green windows, verandahs, and numerous balconies, together with their red-tiled roofs and tall chimneys. There is little commerce, and but few vessels; the latter being principally small Spanish brigantines, feluccas, and guarda-costas. Two packets sail monthly to the Havannah. There are no docks, those originally commenced having long since been abandoned; and like all continental fortified cities, the gates are shut at sunset. The streets of Corunna

4

SPANISH MANNERS.

are wider than those of most Spanish towns; the shops poor, the trade inconsiderable, and although containing 20,000 inhabitants, the place has a deserted and desolate appearance. The town is divided into old and new; the former, situated on the hill surrounding the citadel, is the residence of the aristocracy; while the new, which runs along the water's edge, is mostly composed of shops. There is a very tolerable Prado, where the inhabitants walk at dusk, to smoke cigaritas, inquire into the merits of the last public report,* discuss the chances of the war, and the certain destruction of the Pretender, as they term Don Carlos, being all violent Christinos; and "Spain's dark glancing daughters" issue forth, attended by their duennas, to court the moonlight, exercise their fans, and return the salutations of the passing cavalleros.

This place was at one time strongly fortified; it is now but "mouldering walls and towers defenceless," and in many places the guns lie dismounted in the embrasures. At the entrance of the harbour stands the castle of Saint Antonia, on a rock about a musket-shot off shore;-it is in tolerably good condition, and serves at present as a state prison for the Carlists.

The costume of the females is very pretty, and amongst the upper orders black seems the prevailing colour; but as you descend in the scale of society it is of every hue. The women have all good figures, being particularly straight, some indeed so much so, as to give the appearance of constraint; but the head seems to be the point d'appui, the object of all their care, from the highest to the lowest. No matter how badly they are dressed in other respects, the head is always neat and elegant. I have seen many going without shoes, whose head-dress might be envied by an English lady of the highest fashion. Their hair, of a shining jet, is either madonnaed, or drawn tightly off the forehead, made as smooth as possible all over the head, and collected at the back

Lies are rife here; one evening during our stay we were surprised at the sight of the town illuminated, accompanied with great rejoicing. We found it was for a victory said to have been gained over the Carlists near Madrid, in which the rebel force was totally annihilated. A few days after, other accounts arrived, by which it appeared that an engagement had taken place, but with a different result, four Christinos having been killed, the rest running away, to live to fight another day."

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