ment of the bath, which had appeared to me sô intolerable a fatigue.

On returning to the consulate, I learned that we would be received on this very day by Ibrahim Pacha, in the absence of his father, who was in the Delta. The audience was fixed for noon: I had still two hours before me, of which I took advantage to go to bed.

At the appointed hour, one of the prince's officers appeared to take charge of the procession, and he placed himself in the van. Our caravan consisted of M. de Mimaut, Baron Taylor, Captain Bellanger, Mayer, and myself. It was escorted on the flanks by two kaffas (police officers), whose duty was to beat off with their clubs over-curious spectators who might have impeded the progress of the embassy.

the Pacha.

A great sumptuary change had just been made by About six months before he had repudiated the old military and adopted the new uniform, called Nizam-jedid. Our cortège met several companies of infantry dressed in this uniform, which consists of a red cap, red vests, trousers, and slippers. These habits are universally adopted, and the regiments present a uniform mass of colour, quite satisfactory. It is true that the figures of the soldiers offer in opposition the most varied assortment of shades and complexions, from the fair and pale

skin of the Circassian to the ebony tinge of the child of Nubia; but all the efforts of the Pacha have not been able to remedy this inconvenience.

Another, and not less grievous inconvenience, arises from a cause to which I have already alluded. These regiments, which march through the muddy streets of Alexandria to the beat of drum, and play French marches, in spite of all the efforts of the serjeants placed to bring up the files and prevent straggling, are so far from being able to keep the step, that they cannot even preserve their ranks. The reason is, that every five minutes the red slippers of the soldiers stick in the mud, and their owners are obliged to stop for fear of losing them. This perpetual manœuvre, for which no provision has been made in the infantry drill, causes a confusion in the ranks of the Egyptian militia, which might at first view lead to their being mistaken for the national guard of the country. The mistake would be the more innocent, as under that burning climate, where every weight is a load, each man carries his musket as best suits his pleasure or convenience.

Finally, our procession conquered all difficulties, and arrived at the palace. We found a regiment of the same troops waiting for us under arms. We passed through the two lines, ascended the staircase, and traversed a suite of large white rooms without any furniture, in the midst of each of which

a fountain spouted up a jet of water. In the last but one, Baron Taylor stopped to arrange the presents designed for Prince Ibrahim. They consisted of equipments for colonels of cuirassiers and carbineers, fowling-pieces, and military pistols. When the arrangements were made, we entered the hall of audience.

It was in every respect like the preceding, and without any other furniture than an enormous divan which went round it. In the most obscure corner of the room, a lion's skin was thrown over the divan, and squatted on this skin, one leg crossed over the other, was Ibrahim, his left hand holding a rosary, and his right playing with his toes.

Baron Taylor saluted, and sat down at the right hand of the prince; M. de Mimaut did the same at his left; the rest of us accommodated ourselves the best way we could. Not a word was exchanged in this first part of the reception. As soon as each had taken his place, Ibrahim made a sign, lighted pipes were brought in, and all smoked. During the five minutes that this ceremony lasted, we had time to examine Ibrahim. He wore a Greek -head-dress with the new military uniform, and appeared about forty years of age. In other respects, he was short, squab, stout, had lively and brilliant eyes, a red complexion, and a moustache and beard of the colour of the lion's skin on which he was sitting.

When the pipes were empty, coffee was introduced. Pipes and coffee together constitute a very high compliment. In common audiences, only one or the other is usually offered. When the coffee was finished, Ibrahim got up slowly, and, followed by Baron Taylor and us all, went into the room where the presents were arranged. He examined them one after the other with visible satisfaction; the equipments of the carbineers, adorned with their golden sun, seemed especially to afford him great pleasure. Still, when the inspection was finished, he seemed to look for something else; but not finding what he sought, he addressed a few words to the interpreter, who, turning to Baron Taylor, said: "His Highness wishes to know if you have thought of bringing him any champagne."

"Yes," said the prince, accompanying his words by an expressive nod of the head, "yes, champagne! champagne !"

Baron Taylor answered, that the desires of his Highness had been anticipated, and that several cases filled with this liquid had been already left at the palace.

From that moment, Ibrahim exhibited a most delightful humour; he went back into the hall of audience, spoke much of France, which he looked upon, he said, as a second country, as he was himself the grandson of a French lady. Then, as a last

mark of honour, slaves brought in lighted censers, and perfumed our beards and faces. When this ceremony was completed, Baron Taylor rose and took leave of the prince, placing his hand successively on his forehead, mouth, and breast, which means, in the figurative and poetic language of the East, "My thoughts, my words, and my heart are yours!"

The embassy then returned to the consulate, in the same order that it had come to the palace.

In the evening, M. de Mimaut offered to take us to the theatre. There was a company of comedians at Alexandria, and they played two of Scribe's Vaudevilles.