CONTENTS. CHAPTER I. Aix-la-Chapelle.-Its Discovery and Restoration by Charlemagne. -His Residence there.-Erection and Consecration of the Cathedral.-The Emperor's Death, Burial, and Disinterment CHAPTER II. Page 13 General appearance of the City.-Its Minster Church.-Relics and Treasures.-Rathhaus.-Frankenburg.-Mineral Springs CHAPTER III. 22 Belgian Railroads.-Château de Franchimont.-Description of Spa. Its History. - Cascade of Coo.-Grotto of Remouchamps. - Château de Montjardin.-Château d' Amblève.— Quatre Fils Aymon.-Inslenville CHAPTER IV. 32 History of Liége.-Situation.-Churches.-Palace of the PrinceBishops.-Quentin Durward.-University.- Grétry.- Excursion to Maestricht.-Subterranean Quarries CHAPTER V. 48 Huy. - Namèche.-Tomb of Sybille de Lusignan.-Namur.Floreffe.-Dinant.-Bouvignes.-Three Ladies of Crèvecœur. Freyr.-Waulsort 60 CHAPTER VI. Rochefort.--Trou de Hans.-St. Hubert.-General Description of the Ardennes.-Walloon People and Language 76 Bouillon.-Dutch and Belgian Luxembourg.-Abbey of Orval.- DEAR F Spa, October 27th, 1844. HAVING resolved to attempt the production of a book, I have returned to this place, which is, for several reasons, very favourable to my purpose; first, because, being situated in the country, and among the mountains, it is a pleasant place to live in; secondly, because it is a fashionable watering-place, which is deserted at this season of the year, so that I have excellent accommodations, with nothing to distract my attention from my labour; and, thirdly, because it is in the vicinity of Liége and Brussels, from which cities I can obtain all the books of which I stand in need. To these reasons I might add a dozen others, but I suppose that you will think these quite sufficient. The plan I have formed is this: In the first place, the title, which is always a matter of some consequence, is to be "A Pilgrimage to Treves, through the Valley of the Meuse and the Forest of Ardennes." I commence with Aix-la-Chapelle, which, being the old imperial city of Charlemagne, and containing many relics of him, will, if well described, make a very interesting chapter. From Aix-la-Chapelle to Liége, by way of Spa, is an interesting route, which I followed, and the Valley of the Meuse, from Liége to Dinant, combines, with all that is charming in scenery, historical associations of the finest character, 12 From Dinant to Luxembourg, the road I followed traverses the very heart of the Ardennes, a peculiarly wild and savage country. The pilgrimage to Treves will be the end of the journey and of the book. I have already written an account of it in one of my letters; but you will have a better idea of the interest taken in this curious ceremony, and, consequently, of its importance, from the simple fact that, during the seven weeks of its duration, no less than half a million of persons visited the city. This ancient place contains also some very remarkable Roman monuments quite worthy of record. *** I think that I have selected a subject and a route which have, at least, the merit of being altogether unhackneyed. Another merit I can claim to myself, in relation to the legendary lore, is that of being a conscientious writer; for I assure you that, before I write one page, I frequently read a hundred. After all this heralding, you will, perhaps, be much disappointed when you come to read my manuscript; and, to tell the truth, I am often mortified, on examining it, to find what insipid stuff I have perpetrated. However, time will show; and when I send you what I have written, I will give you full power to publish it or not, as you may think best; for I consider it much better not to attempt the character of an author than to have that of a bad one, A PILGRIMAGE, & c. CHAPTER I. Aix-la-Chapelle.-Its Discovery and Restoration by Charlemagne. -His Residence there.-Erection and Consecration of the Cathedral.-The Emperor's Death, Burial, and Disinterment. THE Emperor Charlemagne delighted in the chase. Attended by his nobles, he often pursued the stag and the wild boar through the deep forests of the Meuse and the Rhine. As he was one day engaged in his favourite pastime, he lost sight of his companions, and, wandering at hazard, came to a spot where walls in ruin, and overgrown with briers, attracted his curiosity. Examining them with attention, he traced the remains of Roman baths, and discovered the springs which had once fed them. The water was reeking hot as it issued from the ground, and it exhaled a sulphurous odour. The beauty of the place excited his admiration. Masses of building stood hard by, crumbling in decay, but still preserving an air of majesty which showed that, though long since fallen from their fair estate, they had once been the favourite abode of pleasure or of power. From the miserable inhabitants who yet lingered about the ruins he learned that the place was called, in Gallic Latin, Aquis Granum, the waters of Granus, or Apollo, whose B |