pillars; the memory of that day's excursion is even yet a solace in the hour of gloom or sorrow, and bids me still remain

"The adoring child

Of nature's majesty, sublime or wild."

Scenes no way inferior to the Coural, in depth of verdure, variety and boldness of outline, and magnificence of colouring, and fully equal to it in the sublimity of their impressions upon the tourist, are to be met with in other parts of the island, particularly on the northern side, where

"The orange tints that gild the greenest bough,

The torrents that from cliff to valley leap,

The vine on high, the willow-branch below,

Mix'd in one mighty scene, with varied beauty glow."

Many of these have since my visit been faithfully represented by Mr. Picken, in his beautiful and graphic work, "Madeira Illustrated."

The value of Madeira as a climate suitable to invalids, is daily more appreciated, because daily becoming better known; and the year I visited the island numbers could hardly find accommodation. Besides hotels and boarding-houses, families (and many are now resident there) can procure houses for the winter season, although at rather a dear rate. These can be had either in the town itself, or in some of the beautiful suburban retreats, which, if not situated at too great an elevation, will be found very advantageous. Unless for those who go early in the season, it will be necessary to write beforehand, in order to procure good accommodation of this description. So great was the demand in the year 1837, that the Portuguese, as might be expected, took advantage of it to raise the prices of their houses. It is much to be regretted that some enterprising merchant has not erected a number of small comfortable dwellings in the different sheltered spots near the town, or in the valley of the Cama de Lobos, for the reception of invalids, who, with their friends, last season (1842-3) amounted to nearly four hundred, and generally number upwards of two hundred; and they, with very few exceptions, are all English.

There are three descriptions of accommodation at Madeira, viz.: furnished houses either in the town, or quintas in the vicinity, such as the Deanery, Palmeira, the Quinta de Sanat

Luzia, &c. &c., amounting to upwards of twenty-five at present, each capable of containing a moderate family, and varying in expense from 60l. to 100l., 150l. or 2001. for the season —that is, from September to June. These, at least the principal ones and the better class, which are mostly the property of the English residents, it is necessary to bespeak some time beforehand; and independent of the many comforts they afford, they supply a home to the invalid immediately on landing, without the necessity of going to a hotel or boardinghouse. Linen and plate, with easy chairs, musical instruments, books, and such other luxuries of that description as can be afforded, are recommended to be brought out by persons taking furnished houses in the island. One English servant will be sufficient; and when ladies go, I would always recommend a female one, for I have invariably found that invalids suffer much more in foreign countries from the want of bed-room comforts than from any defect in either the accommodation or the cuisine. A sufficient number of Portuguese servants of passing honesty, and who speak English fluently, can always be procured for all other purposes; and in marketing, the douceur exacted by these servants is invariably less than the impositions that would be practised on an English one, or any visitor not thoroughly acquainted with Portuguese dealings.

The second mode of accommodation is in family hotels, where small families may be entertained, in separate apartments, at from forty-five to fifty dollars a head per month, and servants at ten dollars. There are now, I understand, five such establishments, and at the period of my visit Solden's and MacGuinn's were the most esteemed.

The third, consists of boarding-houses, conducted much on the same plan as similar descriptions of establishments are at home, with a table-d'hote, or general dining-table. There are six such boarding-houses now in Funchal, all conducted by English people. Their terms are something similar to the former; but for ladies or small families they are less preferable. Independent of all those, private lodgings can now be obtained at the houses of the natives, and several Portuguese families receive boarders.

When the first edition of this work was published, the duty on all English goods, even to wearing apparel, was quite exorbitant; during the past year, however, this has been entirely struck off, and strangers can now carry into the island free of duty, besides

their wearing apparel, whatever else they choose, upon signing a bond at the Custom-house to pay the regular duty on all such articles left or disposed of in the island at the end of eighteen months. It may be useful to families going out to know that the furniture manufactured in Funchal is both cheap and appropriate. By means of steamers plying directly between Southampton and Funchal for the express purpose of invalids, by the regular West Indian vessels touching at the island, and by Brazilian packets sailing from Falmouth, as well as by English and Portuguese traders, the communication is now both certain and agreeable. It is constantly urged, however, that though it may be easy enough to get out, it is often difficult to return; this, however, as will be seen by an examination of the various modes of transit specified in the following notes, and the information which I have derived from the latest and best authorities, is very much exaggerated.* English letters can be answered within a month.

from the most During the last

* In connection with the subject of invalids, I here beg leave to offer some information upon the different modes of transit, derived authentic sources, and brought down to the present time. two seasons, the Peninsular Steam Navigation Company sent out one of their vessels, the Royal Tar, direct to the island. The prospectus states, that she "will leave Southampton on the 18th of October; and after landing her goods and passengers at Madeira and Teneriffe, will proceed to Gibraltar, from whence she will make two trips to Madeira, leaving Gibraltar, on the first trip, about the 2nd, and on the second trip, about the 12th of November, to convey to the island such passengers as may be desirous of visiting the Peninsular ports (Vigo, Oporto, Lisbon, Cadiz, and Gibraltar)." One of the same company's steam-ships will go out to Madeira in spring to bring home passengers. The latest and the amended prospectus of this company states, that passengers can be "booked out in the fall and home in the spring of the year. Outwards-passengers have the option of two ways of proceeding, viz.: either by way of the Peninsula, in the Peninsular and Oriental Steam Navigation Company's Peninsular steam-ships, which start from Southampton for Gibraltar, every Saturday, at four P.M., calling at Vigo, Oporto, Lisbon, and Cadiz; at any, or all of which places, passengers will have the privilege of making such stay as they require, being taken from port to port by following steamers, without additional charge, and finally embarking at Gibraltar for Madeira, on board the Royal Tar, which vessel will make one or more trips for that purpose, between Gibraltar and Madeira, starting from the former place on or about the 4th of Novembe, on her first trip-or, passengers may proceed to Madeira direct, by the

Various opinions have been expressed regarding the comparative merits of this island with other situations of like resort; but I think both medical men, and those who have tried it themselves, must now acknowledge that we have no European climate that can in any way be compared with it, or that affords the same advantages that it does, as a winter residence for invalids, more especially since steam has brought it within a six days' voyage of England. And as steamers now go out expressly for the use of invalids, the sea voyage itself, which is so generally found beneficial, is therefore not prolonged to the extent it was in sailing vessels, and the accommodation is said to be much superior. Even for those who can well afford the expense, it is a serious thing for invalids, especially for females, to resign their

company's steam-ship, the Royal Tar,' Captain G. Brooks, starting for Madeira, from Southampton, on the 18th of October next.

"Homewards-In the spring of next year, one of the Peninsular and Oriental Steam Navigation Company's steam-ships will make two, or as many more trips as may be necessary, between Madeira and Gibraltar, for the conveyance of passengers desirous of returning, via the Peninsula, and will return from Madeira direct for Southampton, the same as last spring. "Rates of passage money, which include a liberal table, with wines, spirits, &c., and also bedding, linen, and cabin furniture of every description From Southampton to Madeira, first class, £30; second class, £21; children under ten years, half price; children under five, one third; children in arms (with the parent), free. Steward's fees, 15s. each first class passenger.

"Rates of passage out in the autumn, and home in the spring-Direct to and from Madeira, £55; by way of the Peninsula, £50. The Royal Tar carries an experienced surgeon. To secure passages, select berths, &c., apply at 44, Regent-street, Piccadilly; and the Peninsular and Oriental Steam Navigation Company's offices, 57, High-street, Southampton, and 51, St. Mary Axe, London."

The royal mail steamers for the West Indies proceed direct from Southampton to Madeira, leaving England the 2nd and 17th of every month. This mode has only just commenced. All the steamers make the trip in from six to seven days.

The Brazil packets still continue to touch regularly at Funchal. The East and West India ships also call there generally; but will only take passengers to or from the island when their berths to their final destination are not occupied; and this in England cannot be known till the last moment, so they are the least to be depended on.

Three regular traders, the Grace Darling, Florence, and Vernon, fitted

CLIMATE OF MADEIRA.

79

home and friends in search of a milder atmosphere; and few places that we are acquainted with will compensate, by the benefits they afford, for the comforts of the one or the endearments of the other. But if such there be, I am constrained to say that place is Madeira.

Far be it from me to say that the climate of Madeira can cure consumption; but this I will say, that, independent of its acknowledged efficacy in chronic affections, it is one that will do more to ward off threatened diseases of the chest, or even to arrest them in their incipient stages, than any I am acquainted with. For such, a dry warm climate, with a healthy and equable state of the atmosphere, are, no doubt, the most powerful remedial agents we are as yet acquainted with, especially for parts

up with very comfortable accommodation for passengers, sail regularly once a fortnight. Many persons prefer them to the steamers; the passage is about twelve days on the average; the expense about £20. Besides these, there are always small Portuguese vessels trading to Lisbon and Gibraltar.

Again, a steamer leaves Falmouth for Lisbon on Mondays, regularly. First cabin fare, £15; second cabin, £9 10s., which includes table, &c. A steamer leaves Lisbon for Madeira every fortnight, and returns in a few days after she lands her passengers. Fares from Lisbon to Madeira (at present), first cabin, £10; second cabin, £7, including table; deck, £3. An English stewardess attends. The British mail contract-boats, which sail on Mondays from Falmouth, call at Vigo, Lisbon, Cadiz, and Gibraltar -touching at Oporto, and return by the same route, which is performed in eighteen or twenty days.

With all these means of access and return, few can now complain of the inability of getting to, or leaving the island.

Persons wishing to leave Rome, or any of the countries bordering the Mediterranean, for Madeira, can always do so, via Gibraltar; and there are also Sardinian vessels constantly going from Genoa to Madeira.

For much information upon the subject of Madeira, I would refer the reader and the invalid to a useful little work published by Mr. Driver, "Letters from Madeira;" and in particular to "The Invalid's Guide to Madeira," by W. W. Cooper, M.R.C.S.; and, for a more detailed account of the climate, to the papers of Doctors Renton and Heineken, published in the Edinburgh Medical and Surgical Journal; also Clark on the Influence of Climate; and a most interesting and valuable scientific communication, by Dr. James Macauley, on the Physical Geography, &c. of the Island, referred to at page 82.