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onward, and that the present state of things could not last. Chierology is a silent and expressive mode of communication among the Turks, and would naturally be expected to arrive at a great pitch of perfection in a town like this, whose walls had ears, and where a word might gain the speaker the bowstring or impalement. Thus, two Algerines meeting in the morning, inquired after the state of affairs, by twisting the extended hand on the wrist rapidly up and down. If matters were well, the palm in reply was turned up; if ill, it was turned down, and the communicants passed on their different ways in silence. The crescent, with an open hand, is engraven on a white marble slab over every gate, battery, fort, and mosque in Algiers: underneath this, the masonic sign of the double triangle, with a verse of the Koorán, or the name of Allah, in large Arabic characters, is invariably to be seen. The terror of the evil eye is also very great-and its preventative, the pointing of the middle finger, is much used by the people, and is moreover engraven on the walls ;—and a text of the Koorán, or some talismanic writing, is generally sewed up in the dress, or hung round the necks of the children, as "gospels" are in Ireland.

It is much to be regretted that more has not been done to mark the habits and usages of this extensive nation, now fast crumbling into a débris that will be scarcely recognised amongst the strata of succeeding generations. Of this large territoryextending from the river Malua, on the west, to Lacata, on the east; running in a parallel between the Mediterranean on the north, and the Atlas mountains and the Zahara, or Great Desert, separating it from the interior towards the south; five hundred miles in length, and varying in breadth from fifty to two hundred -the only parts now remaining in possession of their original owners are Tripoli and Tunis, and how long they will continue is very uncertain. Many of their manners and customs differed from those of other Mohammedan nations-being a mixture between the Turk and Arab, the Moor and the Bedawee.*

To those who would be further informed upon the history and past condition of this most interesting country, I cannot too strongly recommend the perusal of the work of the late lamented Dr. Percival B. Lord, "Algiers, with notes of the neighbouring states of Barbary." London. 1835.

L

146

POPULATION OF ALGIERS.

The present state of this country is but another proof of the downfall of the Ottoman empire-perhaps we may say, of Mohammadanism. In Egypt it is accomplishing by the introduction of Frank manners, customs, and literature, under that extraordinary man, Mohammad Alée. Persia is daily dwindling into insignificance; and the hardy, conquering soldiers of a Cyrus, Xerxes, or Darius, are no longer to be found. As to the Porte itself, whose sultan is looked upon like the pope, as the prophet's successor, and Mohammad's vicegerent on earth, it is doubtful if the present be not the last; and even now, it is but the diplomacy of European powers that maintains the kingdom in his hands, which keeps Russia at bay, and Ibrahim Basha from crossing the Hellespont, and knocking at the gates of Constantinople.*

Those who have at all considered, or have even been engaged in computing the numerical force of any country, must be aware of the many difficulties by which the subject is surrounded, and upon what slender data writers express their opinions on matters concerning population, and similar statistical investigations. I give, therefore, the following abstract of the number and the varieties of the inhabitants of this country, as they have been set forth by the most competent authorities, or were assured to me by creditable persons at the period of my visit in 1837.

In 1732 Dr. Shaw calculated the population of the city of Algiers at no less than 117,000; but this seems almost incredible within so small a space. Before the conquest, and after the plague, which carried off 20,000, it was said to be 40,000. The census taken in 1833 makes it 23,753. It is now about 30,000, of which 7,000 are French troops in garrison. The numbers are thus divided:-Military, 7,000; Moors, 2,185; Negroes, 1,874; Foreigners, 1,895; and, according to the French account, nearly 30,000 Turks were sent from Algiers after the conquest. The total population of the Algerine state is said to have amounted to

*Four years have now passed over us since the above passage was first printed; and during that time we have had ample proof that, but for "the diplomacy of European powers," Ibrahim Basha, with his conquering Syrian army, would have crossed the Hellespont, and Mohammad Alée have sailed through the Bosphorus with the very navy of his sultan.

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1,870,000, independent of the negroes, about the period of the French conquest. They were thus divided: Moors and Arabs, chiefly agriculturists and artisans, 1,200,000; Wandering Arabs and Bedawees, 400,000; Berbers, or Kabyles, 200,000; Jews, 30,000; Turks and Renegadoes, 20,000; and Kolooglies, their descendants, 20,000.*

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CHAPTER VII.

ALGIERS.

The Dey's palace-Executions-Moorish houses-Their Analogy to Syrian-The British Consul -Political Agents-A market-Public works-Cultivation-Colony of Del-Abreem- Plain of Metijiah-Intercourse with the Natives-Colonization-Produce- Society-A Ball-The Opera-Visit to a Mosque-Religion-Moostapha Basha-Commerce-Peculation-Hospitals-Climate-Invalids-A shooting excursion-Game-Occupation by the French-Benefit conferred upon the country-Want of confidence-Achmet Bey-Expense of the SettlementExpedition of 1830-History of the Campaign-The naval attack-Comparison with Lord Exmouth's-Animosity towards the French-Position with regard to England-Concluding

observations.

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On the 25th we visited the Kassaubal, or Dey's palace, which stands at the upper western extremity of the town. It is the highest spot in Algiers, and was fortified as well toward the town as the outworks, and could have been advantageously used towards quelling any sudden insurrection within the city. It was his last retreat before the French entered; and here were signed the terms of the capitulation, of which the British consul was the mediator. This is now turned into a barrack, and most of the public offices in its vicinity form wine-shops. It is a large pile of building, with a court in the centre, surrounded by a colonnade in this the exhibitions of wild beasts and the great wrestling matches took place before the Dey and his suite. It is stated that in one of these fetes, the prowess of an athlete so captivated the daughter of the reigning Dey, that she demanded him of her father in marriage; her modest request was complied with, and he was forthwith raised to one of the highest offices in the state! The presence-chamber was a little square wooden box, projecting from one of the galleries; and the hall of waiting for the European consuls was a most miserable hole, not larger than a dog-kennel. It was here the janizaries met to elect the Dey.

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On our return, in passing through one of the steep narrow archways, we were pointed out the spot to which unfortunate

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victims were hurried to be strangled. It has dungeons ranged on either side, and is now used as a civil prison. The executioner, a most cut-throat looking rascal of a Moor, is still retained in office; we were informed that he was the greatest adept at the garotte or the bowstring in Algiers; and, far from disliking to be questioned on the subject, he appeared to relish it of all things, and explained, in a most scientific manner, the mode of adjusting the rope, and imitated the struggles of the unfortunate criminals with horrid satisfaction. It was on this very spot that no less than seven Deys—a whole week of them—were once strangled between sunrise and sunset; and their white marabutts, or tombs, are still to be seen outside the wall, near the Bab-el-Quetta gate. With such an example before his eyes, it is a wonder they got an eighth to fill the Dailik; but it did not always depend on the will of the individual, who was chosen by his fellow janizaries, and who was often carried from his huxter's-shop to the throne. The last Dey was not only the longest in office ever known, but the second who is recorded to have died a natural death. Another dreadful punishment here in former times was, that of flinging the unfortunate criminal down a slanting wall, from which projected hooks, which, penetrating his body, retained him thus in agony till released by death.

Although the houses appear so mean and prison-like externally, within, they are constructed with great beauty, elegance, and adaptation to this warm country. The outer door, which is generally very plain, though of great strength, leads into a small square hall or reception-chamber, made more gloomy by being completely lined with dark blue tile. This apartment is generally occupied by servants, and, except on very urgent business, farther than this a visitor is seldom allowed. The interior presents a square area or court, with a marble pavement-in the centre of some played a fountain, the spray of which rising high, and caught in alabaster vases, gave a grateful coolness to the whole. This court is surrounded by a piazza, supported by twisted columns of snow-white Italian marble, the arches of which are of the true Saracenic, forming nearly two-thirds of a circle. Colonnades of a similar description rise to two, and sometimes to three stories, having handsome balustrades protecting each of the galleries, the fronts of which are ornamented in mosaics of coloured tiles. All the windows and doors of the

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