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CONTENTS.
CHAPTER VIII.
SICILY.
The Coast of Sicily-Marsala-Quarantine-Medusa-Their powers of sight-Cuvier—A
dolphin hunt-Arrival at Malta- Harbour of La Valetta-Departure from Malta-
Candia-Shores of Egypt
xi
Page
166
CHAPTER IX.
EGYPT.
View of Alexandria-A Turkish pilot-The Egyptian fleet-Soldiery-An Eastern bazaar
-Donkey boys-Cleopatra's Needle-Its prostration and proposed removal-A Palm
grove-Ruins of the ancient City-Pompey's Pillar-Nautical Hieroglyphics-English
seamen-The Cemetery-Tombs-Eastern lamentation-A Surveyor of the Navy-The
Dock-yard-Commissioners-Vessels on the stocks-The Navy-Arsenal-Artisans-
Mosque-Matrimonial speculation-Price of labour-A line-of-battle ship-Naval uni-
form-The Hospital-Consular residences-The Slave-market-Fish-Dromedaries-
Remarks on their Natural History
171
CHAPTER X.
Harbour of the Mahmoudie-A Kanghia-The Canal-Egyptian Plagues-Cotton Plant
-Appearance of the Country-Game-Mode of cleaning the Canal-Atfé-The Nile-
Boatmen-The English Ensign-Composition of the soil-Scenery-Husbandry-Birds
-The Fellaheen-Their Costumes-Arab Females-Their Dress-An Egyptian Eye-
Old Women-Habitations-Sheykhs-Self-mutilation-Cyclopean Population-Conscrip-
tion-Boolack-Approach to the Capital-Cairo-Hotel de Jardin-The Lions-Citadel
-View from it-Mosque of the Básha-Joseph's Well-Palace of the Basha-The Ha-
reem-The Arms Factory-Massacre of the Memlooks-Mosque of Sooltan Hassan-
Description of its Interior-The Streets-Inhabitants-Shop-keepers-Nightly Stillness
-The Mooeddin's Chant
194
CHAPTER XI.
Suburbs of Cairo-The Mekka Pilgrimage-Camels-Bedawees-Tombs of the Memlooks
-Mokattam Rocks-Tombs of the Kaliefs-Mausoleum of Mohammed Alee-Ancient
Customs-The Mad-house-Description of its Inmates-Reflections on Insanity-The
Slave Market-Abyssinian Girls-Nubians-Their Ideas of Modesty-Mohammadan
Slavery-Comparison with Christian-Hotels of Cairo-Coffee Manufactory-A Kahweh
-Tobacco Its Use-Pipes-Hemp-Its Medicinal Effects-Inquiry into the use of
Eastern Stimulants-Egyptian Ladies-Eastern Coquettes-A Plague Dog-Intrepidity
of an English Physician-Visit to Shoubrah-Beauty of the Road-Gardens of the
Hareem-Oriental Luxury-Baths-A Kiosk-Mooslim Hospitality-The Básha-His
Retinue-A Conversazione-The Egyptian Society-An English Consul General
214
Visit to the Hospital-The Eye-wards-Egyptian Ophthalmia-Its causes-Treatment-
College and School of Medicine-Students-Professors-Dissections-Museum-Instruc-
tion-The Maternity-Benefits of the Institution-The Magician-Description of the
Exhibition-The Incantation-Its failure-Trials of the power of Magic-Proofs of its
deception--Inference - The Serpent-charmer-The Coluber Haje-Snake-eating-A
Subscription Ball-Female Dress-The Sufa-Gambling-Compliment to the British-
Old Cairo-The Ferry-Plains of Geza-The Gossamer-Taxes-The Crops-Pyramids
of Aboosier-Plains of Memphis-Irrigation-The Desert-Rocks-Opinions concerning
-Birds-Insectiverous Hawks-The Scarabæus-Its Habits-Its sacred character-The
Sacking of the Tombs-Sackara-Catacombs-A Deformed Mummy-Tomb of Bergami
-Hieroglyphics—Antiques
234
CHAPTER XIII.
Visit to one of the Pyramids of Sackara-Its entrance-Chambers-Roof-Remarks upon
the pyramid-Buckshese-Tomb of Beer-dor-etho-The plain of Memphis-Inquiry
concerning the probable site of that city-Opinions of authors-Reflections on its de-
struction-Scene in a tomb-Mooslim Ablutions-Mummy pits-Difficulty of exploring
-Urns of the Ibis-Desert Grouse-Hyenas-Approach to the great pyramids-The
Sphynx-A pic-nic at the pyramids-Ascent of that of Chephrenes-Its construction-
Difficulties of the ascent-Coating-Description of Herodotus-Dangerous position-
View from the summit-Mode of ascent-Pyramid of Cheops-The king's chamber-
Acoustic tubes-A picture-Upper chambers-Their use and construction- Crystaline
incrustation-Colonel Vyse-Interior of Belzoni's or Chephrenes' pyramid-Return to
Alexandria-Inspection of the Catacombs-Description of the excavations-Their pro-
bable date-Lake Mareotis-Shells
CHAPTER XIV.
The present condition of Egypt and character of Mohammad Alee-Diversity of Opinions
-Impressions received in the Country Parts and in the Cities-Egypt tried by an
unfair standard-Prophecies of Ezekiel-Introduction of the Memlooks-Their de-
basing Government-Testimony of Volney-War of 1802-Rise of Mohammad Alee-
Destruction of the Memlook Beys-Exchange of Tyrants-Native Instruction-Colleges,
Institutions, and Factories-Grades in Society-Railroads-Steamers-Basha's House-
hold-His Knowledge of the State-Affection for his Wife-Taxation-Effects of the
Battle of Koniah-Regeneration of Egypt, a Fulfilment of Prophecy-Affairs in the
East-Political State of Egypt-Instability of the Turkish Empire-Extent of Mo-
hammad Alee's Territory-Consequence of this returning to the Porte-Symbol of the
Euphrates-Right to Independence-Present State of Turkey-Sooltan's Rule compared
with the Viceroy's-Effect of Mohammad Alee's Independence on European Powers---
His Hereditary Possession
259
283
Departure for Rhodes-A Hurricane-The Gulf of Symi-Its Scenery-Description of the
Bay-The Island of Vurnos-Greek colony-Island of Patelina-Remains of the
Knights of St. John-Village of Darachia-Water Tortoises-Climate-Rhodes-Its
Harbour-The Knight's Tower-Fortifications-The Strada Cavaliere-Its Council Hall
-Escutcheons--A Dream of the past-The Burial Ground-Ancient Guns-Inhabitants
-Greek Quarter-Condition of the Island-Cause of its Decay-Auction of Bashalicks
-Effects upon the people-The late Reforms-Climate-Leprosy Zoology-The Co-
lossus and Ancient Harbour- The Básha-His Residence and Costume -Troops-
Petrified Beach-A Funeral-A Launch-Visit to Marmorice-Its Scenery-Town-A
Serenade-Neighbouring Valleys-Summer Houses-Inhabitants-Bees-Mountain Ve-
getation-Land Tortoises-The Ancient Physcus-Grave-yards-Fat-tailed Sheep-Bay
of Karagatch-The Surrounding Country-Plane Trees-Turkomans-A Shooting ex-
cursion-Proceed to the Gulf of Glaucus
301
CHAPTER XVI.
ASIA MINOR.
The Gulf of Glaucus-Macri-Its Scenery-The Modern Town-Its Inhabitants-Un-
healthy situation of the place-Telmessus-Its Tombs-Barrows-Stelo-Pillars men-
tioned by Josephus-Inquiry into the origin of Pillars-Found in the British Isles-
Their different uses-The Soros-The Tomb of Helen-Sarcophagi peculiar to Asia
Minor A Warrior's Tomb-Rock-carved Sepulchres-Regal Mausolea-Their Façades
-An ancient Temple-Remarkable form of its Roof-Reflections upon Tombs-The
Theatre Description of its Ruins-Acoustics of the Ancients-Cyclopean Proscenium-
Magnificent prospect of the Spectators-Surrounding Scenery-The Grecian Drama-
The charms of Travel-The Soothsayer's Cave-Baths-Dromedaries-Climate-Classic
Authorities upon Telmessus-The Isle of Cavaliére-Bay of Kalamaki-Kastelorizo-
Its Town, Harbour, and Navy-The Island of Cyprus-Limasol-The Cyprian Wine-
Malaria-We sail for Syria
324
CHAPTER XVII.
SYRIA.
Beyrout-Quarantine-Rise of the Sea-Silk manufactory-Proceed to Jaffa-Lebanon-
A Storm-Tyre-Appearance of the Place-Inhabitants-Present condition of Tsour-
Comparison of its Ancient Grandeur and Merchandise-Questions proposed for Inquiry
-Position of the Peninsula-Water Tower-Whence its Supply-A Remarkable Rock
-The Aqueduct-Marshuk-Its Cistern and Water works-A Threshing Instrument-
Discovery of Ancient Tombs-Their Position-Historic Sketch of the Several Cities of
Tyre-Its Earliest Mention-Chronology of Sir I. Newton-Pala Tyrus-Its Antiquity
-Siege of Shalmanazer-Destruction by Nebuchadnezzar-Building of Insular Tyre-
Besieged by Alexander-Prophetic fulfilment-Its History up to the Introduction of
Christianity-From that to the Crusades-Probable Site of Pale Tyre-Opinion of the
Count de Bertou-Derivation of the word Tyre-Definition of Pale-Position of
Ancient Cities-Sepulchres-Aqueducts-The Modern Town-Its Population-Remains
of the Insular City-Rise of the Sea-Harbours-Submerged Ruins-Discovery of the
Dye-pots-Fountains of Solomon-Departure from Tyre-Caipha-Proceed to Jaffa
347
Jaffa-Lazarettos-Convents-The ancient Harbour-Gardens about Jaffa-Plain of Sharon
-Its verdure-Recollections on passing through it-Its atmosphere-Villages-Ramlah
-Pilgrims-Convent of St. Nicodemus--The Martyr's Tower-Trade of the town-
Monks Proceed to Jerusalem-Goats-Hill country of Judea-Sterility of Palestine-
Beth-horon-Village of Jeremiah-The Terebinthine Vale-The Battle-field of Goliath
-An Allegory-First view of the Holy City-The Latin Convent-The Hospicium
-Father Benjamin-Visit to the Superior-His inquiries-Church of the Holy Se-
pulchre-Its outer court-Mohammadan Guards-Anointing stone-Calvary-The place
of the Cross-Altars-Emotion of the Pilgrims-The Holy Sepulchre-Its Pavilion-
Description of the Tomb-Stations and holy places-Pillar of scourging-Singing-
Louis Philip-Disgraceful conduct of the Friars-Recollections of the Crusades-Peter
the Hermit-Exciting scenes in the church of the Sepulchre-Sensations produced
by the place-The Holy Fire-Its late fatal result-Death of three hundred pilgrims-
A midnight scene in Jerusalem-An Armenian Bishop-The identity of the sacred
places
391
CHAPTER XIX.
JERUSALEM.
Topography of Jerusalem-Mode of Constructing Maps-Opinions of Clarke and Bucking-
ham-Plans of Mr. Catherwood-Description of the hills on which the city stands-The
Streams and Valleys-Map of the Author-History of the several Cities on this Spot-
Salem-Derivation of Jerusalem-Sion-Building of the Temple-Destruction by
Nebuchadnezzar-Rebuilt by Zerubbabel-Agrippa's Wall round Bezetha-Errors in
Topography-Descriptions of Josephus-Acra and Moriah-The Three Walls-Tower
of Hippicus-Circuit of the Ancient City-Tower of Antonia-Tower of Psephinus-
The Royal Sepulchres-Walls of Nehemiah-Description of the Gates and Fountains-
Establishment of their Sites-The Armoury-Existing Remains of the ancient City-
Cyclopean Work-The Outer Enclosure of the Temple-Mourning Israelites-Berca
Solyman-Bridge to the Xistus-Similarity of Architecture-Authority of Ancient
Writers-Circumference of the Ancient and Modern City-Elia Capitolina
CHAPTER XX.
Promise of a New City-The Labours of Mr. Fry-Prophecies-Lines of the Prophetic
City-Tower of Hananeel-The Eastern Wall-The Northern Boundary-Goath-The
Southern and Western Walls-The Prophet Ezekiel-His Vision-The City-like
Temple-Its Measurements-Its Supposed Symbolical Meaning-Reference to Solomon's
Temple-The Eastern Gate-Its Architecture-Traditions-Its Station in the Milennial
City-Remarkable Predictions concerning it-Mohammadan Traditions of Jerusalem
-The Manuscript of Jalal-Addin-Prophecy of Mahadi-Expected Return of Messiah
-Dr. Clarke's Topography-His alleged Discoveries-Position of Mount Sion-Ohjec-
tions of Mr. Buckingham-Their Fallacy-His Map-Refutation of Clarke's Objections
-Sepulchres of David-Proofs from the Book of Joshua-Clarke's Knowledge of the
Holy City-Authority of the Apostles-Calvary-Vulgar Errors-Golgotha-Identity
of the Holy Sepulchre-Opinions of Dr. Robinson-Grotto of Jeremiah-The Royal
Sepulchres-Tomb of the Judges-Their Manner of Construction-The Valley of
Jehoshaphat-Tomb of the Virgin-Gethsemane-Mount of Olives-Sepulchres of the
Patriarchs-Siloam-Valley of Hinnom-The Aceldama-Discoveries of the Author-
The Races of Mankind-Opinion of Dr. Prichard
422
452
The Jews-Their Character in Jerusalem-Number-Benjamin of Tudela-Means of
Subsistence Their Love for the City-Patriotism-Transportation of their bones-
Their Language-Synagogues-Ancient Customs-Present State and Prospects—A
Touching Scene-Hope-Lepers-Houses-Female Inhabitants-Their Amusements-
Missionaries The English Church-The Different Sects of Christians-The Latin
Fathers-A Pharmacy-Greeks-Armenians—Their Convents-Door of the Holy
Sepulchre Copts-Their History and Customs-Effects of the Conscription-An Arab's
Love-Pool of Bethesda-Its remarkable Masonry-Tomb of David-A Prussian
Prince-A Navigator of the Dead Sea-Irish Travellers-Eastern Shepherds-Beth-
lehem-Its Beautiful Females-Convent-Place of the Nativity-Etham-Solomon's
Cisterns-Aqueduct-Visit to Bethany-Sepulchre of Lazarus-Return to Ramla-
Sirocco Climate of Palestine-An Adventure-How to catch a Mule-Reflections on
the East-Its Wonders and present Prospects-Proceed to Europe
520
CHAPTER XXII.
GREECE.
Departure from Jaffa-Flying Fish-Syra-Cape Colonna-Temple of Minerva Sunias
-The Piraus-Omnibuses-Athens-View of the Parthenon-Present Condition of
the City-Sir Edmund Lyons-Society-King Otho-Bavarian Government-The New
Palace-Its Cost-The Greek Loan-Destruction of the Pentelic Quarries-Climate of
Athens-Accommodation for Invalids-Means of Access-Fossil Beds of Pikermi-
Visit to Marathon-Mr. Finlay-His Paper on the Battle-Arrow-heads-Their
Similarity to Irish-Varna-Leoshea-Return to Athens-Easter-The Greek Church
-Christian Salutation-Romaic Dance-Missionaries-Schools-The English Church
-Hospitals-Museum-Proceed to the Morea-Napoli di Romania-Tyrinthus-Tomb
of Agamemnon-Mycena-Its Lions-Architecture-Argos-Geological Appearance-
Gibraltar-Advantages of Yachting-Return to Ireland
569
APPENDIX.
A.-On a New Method of Preserving Fish for Zoological Collections
591
B.-On Travel, the Education suitable for Travellers, and the Advantages that would
arise to Science from Travelling Fellowships in the University of Dublin
593
N.-Anatomical Characteristics of Heads found in the Aceldama, and Description of the
Cranium of a Modern Egyptian
644
O.-Register of the Fahrenheit Thermometer, on Board the Crusader Yacht, taken at the
Hours of 9, A.M.; 12, N.; and 9, P.M.; from the 9th December to the 23rd of
May, 1837-8
646