« הקודםהמשך »
Remember, He who said “Repent,” Vain folly of another age,
Said also, “Sin no more.” 'This wandering over earth,
Return, and in thy daily round
Which lifts the soul above.
in every innocent prayer each child And Carmel's consecrated rose
Lisps at his father's knee, Springs from a ballow'd mound.
If thine has been to teach that prayer, Glorious the truth they testify,
There will be hope for thee. And blessed is their name;
There is a small white church that stands But even in such sacred spots
Beside thy father's grave; Are sin and wo the san
There kneel and pour those earnest Oh, pilgrim, vain each toilsome step,
prayers Vain every weary day;
That sanctify and save. There is no charm in soil or shrine, Around thee draw thine own home ties, To wash thy guilt away.
And, with a chastened mind, Return, with prayer and tear return,
In meek well-doing seek that peace
No wanderer will find.
In charity and penitence
Thy sin will be forgiven. There's hope for one who leaves with Pilgrim! the heart is the true shrine shame
Whence prayers ascend to heaven. The guilt that lured before,
L. E. L. [Eclec. Rev.
NOTES OF A TRAVELLER.
upon touching one of them upon (Continued from page 71.)
the head of a little girl, passing Berne, Switzerland,
through the crowd, I found it com
August 26, 1828. posed of horse hair. This kind of Tuesday:-To-day, being the fair millinery lasts a very long time, or market day, we found the streets and I understand passes from gethis morning crowded with coun neration to generation. The hair try people from different parts of under this machine descends in the canton. We had a good op- two long plaited queues, which portunity of seeing the peasantry ought to reach to the heels to be in in their various costumes. The fashion; and to effect this, black dress of the Bernese females is ribands, of the proper length, are quite peculiar: we noticed it yes- interwoven with the hair. The terday almost as soon as we enter arms are covered with enormous ed the canton, and now we saw it sleeves of white linen, gathered in all its perfection and variety. close to the wrist: black staysThe head is covered with a black short frocks-red, blue, and white cap, fitted close to it, from the stockings, complete the dress-not sides of which project two pieces to be surpassed by any thing in of net-work, five or six inches the Parisian fashions or in Ackerbroad, like wings, which have a man's Repository. The dress of the very odd looking appearance. If men has nothing about it peculiar. nothing but the head of the animal The city of Berne is interesting could be seen, it might be mistaken on many accounts; and you are not for some huge nondescript species to suppose that, because my notes of dragon-fly. I supposed these here are not só full as in other wings to be made of wire; but places, we saw but little. Com
mon, though beautiful objects, have rangements of this manual labour become rather tedious. Our eyes school. are almost saturated with novel The country through which we ties; and it is often a matter of passed was full of hills and valleys, great gratification, to ascertain all in a good state of cultivation. that there is nothing worthy of no- The Swiss farmers, male and fetice near us. Though our visit to male, we observed sprinkling their Berne was short and hurried, it has grounds with a dark coffee-colourleft quite a vivid impression on ed, odiously perfumed liquid, drainmy mind.
ed in large casks, from their styes, Taking an early dinner, we set and the manure heaps of their barn off for Lucerne. The road is de- yards. The women are employed lightful. After riding a few miles, in all kinds of agricultural labour. we'stopped at a chapel near the In one instance, we saw two cows way side, to see a curious and ce- dragging a load of hay, under the lebrated monument, erected to the guidance of a damsel that looked beautiful Maria Langhans. The like any thing else but a Chloe. little girl who showed us the The romance I had attached to fechurch, opened a rough kind of males employed in rural life, is entrap-door in the pavement, which tirely dissipated. I never want to conceals the tomb. The marble is see any more shepherdesses. Thus represented as splitting asunder at you see, one dream after another the sound of the last trumpet: the of my youthful imagination vanishmother rises through the fissure, es, before the “dull realities of bearing on one arm a little infant, life,” and by the time I hope to while with the other she pushes get home, you will find me, I think, aside the fragments of the tomb. a plain, sober, matter-of-fact perThe artist has succeeded happily sonage. in combining the expressions of The black skull-cap of the Berpious awc, and hope and surprise, nese women, with its dragon-fly in the beautiful face of the young wings, is now superseded by a large mother. The whole, which is flat circular hat, made of straw, or nearly as large as life, is carved some other light substance, paintout of a single piece of stone. The ed yellow: it has no crown, but is impression which this fine piece of kept in its place by a riband tied sculpture is calculated to produce, under the chin. In almost every is very much weakened by a num- canton, the females have a peculiar ber of mean and dirty accompani- bonnet, which, if worn by those in ments. We purchased a good re- any other canton, would be consipresentation of the monument from dered an outrage. the guide. Every thing here is Owing to the hilly nature of the converted into an object of gain. country, our progress was but
At about seven miles distance slow, and our coachman was parfrom Berne, we passed Hofwyl, the ticularly careful of his horses. It celebrated seminary of Fellenberg. is a general remark, that in no The merits of this highly interest- country are horses better taken ing establishment are well known care of than in Switzerland. After to all who are devoted to the great mounting any considerable hill, and good cause of education. Our they rest a short time, and the party were equally divided, as to driver takes a loaf of bread out of the propriety or pleasure of pass- his pocket, and commonly feeds ing a few hours here; and rather himself and his nags with a numthan create any disagreeable feel- ber of slices, before we take a fresh ing, I submitted to the disappoint- start. This method of giving bread ament of not examining the ar to horses on the road is common, Vol. IX.-Ch. Adr.
I believe, all over Europe. We After dressing for dinner, I took a have often noticed it before. seat at the window of my chamber,
We stopped for the night at an which opened on the water: the inconsiderable village. The inn, evening was charming: the sun like many of the houses here, is had just sunk behind the hills, but entirely built of wood. The shin the tops of the Rigi and of Mount gles on the roofs are secured by Pilatus were still glowing with his heavy poles laid across them, and rays: the music of “Sweet home" are kept in their place by huge from my Genevese box, was flowstones. After a very frugal supper, ing into my ear, This was a mowe were each shown to a separate ment of enthusiasm; but the spell thamber in a long gallery, by a which began to bind my senses chambermaid who could not speak was broken by the clanking of a word of French. Nothing but chains, and upon looking up, I saw German was understood in the. on the opposite side of the river a house. In spite of all my language file of miserable convicts, male and of signs, I could not make her take female, returning to prison, after off a feather bed, under which I their daily and disgraceful toil in was obliged to sleep, instead of a the streets. sheet, blanket and counterpane. Thursday, Aug. 27.-Lucerne is
Wednesday, Aug. 26.-At an situated at the junction of the river early hour we set off again on the Reuss with the lake of the four road to Lucerne. A succession of forest cantons; the river dividing verdant hills and fertile valleys the town into two parts. One of brought us at length to the Lake the most noticeable things are seof Sempach, a sheet of water of veral curious wooden bridges, considerable extent. The town of which connect different portions of Sempach is on the opposite side of the town, separated by the river the lake. This place you know is and the lake. Two of these covercelebrated in history for the defeat ed bridges are more than one thouof Leopold, duke of Austria, in sand feet in length. The interior 1386, by the forces of the Swiss of the roof of one of these, called confederation. The field where the the Chapel bridge, is decorated famous battle was fought, is on a with one hundred and fifty-four anrising ground, and no vestige of it cient pictures, representing historemains. A small chapel is built, rical and religious subjects, in a it is said, on the spot where Leo: taste characteristic of the times in pold fell.
which they were painted. Near The approach to Lucerne is very the middle of this bridge, the beautiful. The city standing on Watch Tower rises out of the lake, the borders of a placid lake, with and was once a light-house. This its turrets and spires—the old gave to the town its name Lucerne, fashioned wall winding over the from lucerna, the lantern on the top neighbouring heights, with its an of the tower. Here we noticed a tiquated towers and battlements, number of wild ducks, sporting in produce a strong impressions and the water. Mount Pilatus and Mount Rigi, On the breakfast table this mornwith the range of prodigious ing, we found a little daily paper, hills which bounded the view im- quite common in the principal mediately before, added not a little places in Switzerland : in it the to the scene. Our coachman drove names of all strangers are publishus to the Balance, an hotel which ed, who are then in town. Here turned out quite as rich in comforts we discovered our names, as any of the Falcons—the most spelled in a most singular manner, popular name for good inns here. half French, half German, with
little touch of English. We also strange votive offerings: here also noticed in it the arrival of an Ame are two bulls of Pius VII., giving rican friend from the Oberland, and plenary indulgence and other imwe set off immediately to pay him munities, to those who perform in a visit, but unfortunately we miss- this place certain religious sered each other; his guide we found vices. Many of the Catholick laid up in bed, with a broken limb, church yards are ornamented in a received in crossing one of the very strange kind of taste, The mountains.
head boards of the graves are often There are a number of objects painted and gilded in a fantastical here which commonly attract the manner, the figure of the cross notice of the tourist. In the Ar- being on the top, and from the senal we saw several ancient and arms of which there are often sus. interesting trophies: the coat of pended, by strings, little carved re: mail worn by Leopold at the battle presentations of angels and saints, of Sempach-iron collars, full of which dangle loosely in the wind. sharp points, with which the Aus The lake of Lucerne is one of trians intended to torture some of the most picturesque and interest. their expected captives—the sword ing sheets of water in Switzerland of William Tell and a great va. —not only on account of its numeriety of ancient armour, with the rous windings, the copious rivers other curious and horrid ma- which flow into it, and the majeschinery of war. Leaving the Ar- tick mountains by which it is sur. senal, we ascended a hill, and walk- rounded, but also by the romantick ed along the outside of the battle scenes connected with it in history. ments of the city, and then visited Mount Pilate rises from the shore in the environs the celebrated mo to the height of nearly seven thounumental Lion, intended to com sand feet, and presents a magnifimemorate the massacre of the cent sight. It is calcareous in its Swiss guards of Louis XVI. This formation, and abounds with animonument is carved in the side of mal 'remains. On the top there a living rock, crowned with trees, was once a deep and dismal pool and represents a colossal lion, near- of water called Mare Infernale, ly thirty feet long, dying amidst where Pontius Pilate, the Roman weapons of war and armorial bear. Governor of Jerusalem, is said to ings. We could scarcely realize have drowned himself-this pool that the figure of the animal was is now nothing more than a mud much beyond the natural size, so hole. Much has been written on perfect is it in all its proportions; the subject of the supernatural apyet the artist must have known but paritions connected with this lake. little of natural history, for he has "The violent storms which somegiven but four fingers to the paw times burst over Lucerne, were, by of the royal beast. In a shop of the superstitious, imagined to be curiosities, opposite the monument, the ebullitions of the angry spirit we purchased among other things, of Pilate issuing from the pool, a good representation of this re when any person had the hardi. markable work,
hood to disturb its waters. "Such On our return to town, we stop: was the credence bestowed upon ped at a dirty little chapel, built this legend in the 14th century, also as a memorial of the Swiss that it was expressly prohibited by guards: it contains a privileged the governmeyt to approach the altar, covered with silk, embroider- lake.” ed by the dauphiness of France. Mount Rigi is another interest. The walls are filled with many ing feature in the grand scenery
around Lucerne, and it is perhaps boatmen. We passed the Gulf of more frequently visited by tourists Kussnacht, at the upper end of than any other spot in Switzerland. which Gessler landed, after the The object in ascending this high sudden storm during which Wilmountain, is to witness the effects liam Tell made his escape from of the rising and setting of the sun the boat in which the tyrant was on the extensive range of lofty conveying him to his castle. The peaks, the lakes, the valleys, and whole of this romantick story is the plains, in the centre of which too familiar to need repetition. it stands. As this day gave pro- The ruins of Gessler's castle may mise of a glorious sunset, we de- yet be seen. After landing at termined to spend the evening and Weggis, we ordered horses, mules, night upon the mountain.
and guides, to ascend the mounOn our return to the inn, we fell tain. This little town, which is in with three young South Ameri- now scarcely noticed by the travelcans, who were just preparing to ler, contained, in remote times, make an excursion to the Rigi; the castle of the most noble baron and they were not a little gratified in all Switzerland. In 1795, this to meet with human beings from district was nearly all swallowed the other side of the Atlantick, up by a torrent of mud, which dewho spake the English language- scended upon it from the Rigi. indeed we all felt as if we were The inhabitants were first alarmed more closely connected together, by strange rumblings in the air, than with any of the Europeans by and upon looking up the side of whom we were surrounded. We the mountain; they observed therefore soon became sociable, mass of mud about a mile long, and determined to visit the sum and fifty or sixty feet broad, sliding mit of the Rigi together. Our down upon them; but as it moved travelling carriages we sent on to slowly, they had time to escape. Zug, a town fifteen or twenty miles It continued flowing many days, distant, expecting to meet them and, like a stream of lava, it swept there to-morrow. We soon ob- before it trees, and houses, and tained a boat to convey us on the walls, and every obstacle in its lake to the town of Weggis, from course. which the mountain may be as After taking some refreshment cended by a very good path. at the inn, we began to ascend the
Our excursion on the lake was rugged sides of the mountain, in delightful-the water was clear
some parts of which are yet to be and placid-the air mild—and the seen the effects of the terrible erupsky unclouded. The banks pre- tion of mud. We passed a numsented all the variety of slope and ber of singular crucifixes, erected precipice; and lofty mountains
mountains at various distances along the side bounded our vision on every side of the path. Small paintings on with solemn grandeur. Many of these crosses represented the Sathe boats here are navigated by fe- viour toiling up Mount Calvary. males, who, in the fanciful costume In the first he is represented as of the country, singing as they bearing his cruel burden with condash their oars in the water, pro- siderable strength. As you ascend duce, at a distance, quite a roman the hill, the figures appear more tick effect. High above the sur and more languid, and at last he is face of the water we saw, in a nitch seen prostrate on the ground, unaof an almost inaccessible rock, the ble to proceed with it any farther. image of a saint, in an iron cage, There is also near the path a small to aid the devotions of the pious chapel, full of ex-votos—for this