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FASHIONS

FOR

FEBRUARY, 1810.

EXPLANATION OF THE PRINTS OF FASHION,

ENGLISH COSTUME.

EVENING DRESS.

A jacket of pale buff Merino cloth, with antique stomacher, richly embroidered in green chenille, finished with silk tassels; a fine India muslin petticoat and train, embroidered round the bottom with a trimming to correspond, and worn over a white satin slip. A Spanish cap of cloth and green satin, of the

same colour as the dress, ornamented with a
long green droopiug ostrich feather, border
similar to the dress. A French shawl of ruby
coloured silk. Emerald necklace and earrings.
Green kid slippers with silver roses. Limerick
gloves. The hair on the forehead in short ring-
lets, with a long Theresa curl flowing grace-
fully over the left shoulder.

A DESCRIPTION OF SEVERAL DRESSES
WORN BY LADIES OF DISTINCTION.

1. A lady of rank and fashion, whom it would be presumptuous to name, has selected for her winter dress, an olive-green mantle of Merino cloth, trimmed round the edge with puckered chesnut-coloured ribbon; the bonnet composed of satin and cloth to correspond, with two small shaded green and brown ostrich feathers; this mixture is both novel and elegant.

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4. A pilgrim coat of light drab coloured cloth or satin, lined with pink, broad band of velvet, and deep, narrow steel buckle; Pulemon hat of drab cloth, feathers of the same colour dipped with pink. Boots laced with pink.

5 An olive-brown mantle, lined with pal green satin, embroidered round the edge in a

ning pattern of hops, tied with green cords and tassels; Persiau bonnet of split straw, trimmed with green, and ornamented with two small round ostrich feathers. Boots laced with green. Limerick gloves.

6. A pale buff or light fawn-coloured cloth down, and swansdown muff; small turd-up mantle lined with white, trimmed with swanscottage bonnet of straw, worn over a full bor. der of lace, with demi wreath of moss rosebuds. Straw bonnets, the Persian cottage in particular, notwithstanding the season, were never more worn by women of fashion; as are furs of every description.

PARISIAN FASHIONS.

A mantle of faded violet, or mulberry-coloured cloth, reaching to the feet and wrapping entirely round the figure; embroidered in silk with a rich deep border of natural flowers; the hood extremely large, thrown much open, reaching to the fall of the back and to the points of the elbow, brought very forward over the bosom, lined with gold coloured satin, embroidered in the centre with a bunch of violets, heart's-ease, auricula, or polyanthus. This cloak is lined throughout with satin, the facings embroidered to correspond. A cap of white satin and lace, tied down with a worked gold coloured handkerchief, and ornamented with a bunch of auricula. Half boots of yellow

2. A pelisse of purple velvet to fit tight to the shape, in the wrap form, without a band, liued with royal amber, trimmed round the bottom and up the front with a border of sable five inches in width; an amber scarf richly fringed, and wove with Persian characters, crossed over the bosom and tied in a bow bebind; a Persian turban of satin and velvet, with two flat ostrich feathers tipped with orange. Half-boots of yellow Morocco, edged || with sable. Limerick gloves; Angola muff. 3. An amber velvet mantle with large Pari-Morocco, trimmed with sable. sian hood, lined throughout with white satin, edged with a wide bordering of swansdown; round swansdown muff and tippet; white satin and velvet cap, with shaded ostrich feather. Boots trimmed with sable.

No. I. Vol I.-N. S.

Light green crapé dresses with long traine, worn over white satin slips, with long sleeves of white crape; the bosom cut extremely low, which is covered by a full lace tucker; the back very narrow, cut out in a point between the

| modest lily, the humble violet, or the blushing rose? As the uoblest piles are supported by pillars of the simplest architecture, so the daughters of the nobility, the props of our most ancient houses, exhibit in their persons the least of decoration.

shoulders, embroidered in a silver spray; the arm holes trimmed round with pink or white roses, rather large. Bracelets, necklace, and girdle of pink topaz. Earrings of coloured gold in the form of a lamp or balance, suspended from the ear by three small gold chains, held up by a little diamond hird, with spread wings and eyes of ruby. A small basket of diamonds with flowers represented by coloured gems is often seen pendant from the necklace. The waists are worn of a very moderate length, just below the bosom before, but rather longer behind, The hair is combed behind the ears in front, twisted or plaited with ribbands, pearls, coloured gems, or wreaths of flowers placed at the back of the head, one or more light tresses are left to play over the shoulders. The faus are of a rich banquet of flowers paint-when not required, are buttoned with three ed on tiffany, the light in the leaves and flowers, of silver or gold.

GENERAL OBSERVATIONS

AND REFLECTIONS ON

FASHION AND DRESS.

In addition to the observations for the present month, we have to present our fair readers with a description of the several Court-dresses worn at the Drawing-room, on the Birth-day of our beloved Majesty the Queen.

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A long course of experience, and a series of the most attentive observation, bave fully convinced us, that singularity and extrava gance in attire are by no means the characteristics of women ofrank. Fashion with them is seldom seen to exceed the bounds of nature or of grace, at least among those who possess a good taste, and are therefore the truest || standards for style and elegance. It is an excessive ambition of novelty, and a too great eagerness for fashion among the affluent, that leads to eccentricity and produces extremes. Sweetness and modesty, with innocence, delicacy, and sensibility, render a youthful female the most interesting object in nature; these good qualities of the mind should be set forth in the person by a neatness marked with elegance, simplicity & mbined with grace. A too conspicuous attie, with a superabund ance of decoration, puts to flight every charm, and robs the senses of eve y teuder emotion. The timid sensitive plant recedes only from the touch; had it sensibility, it would shrink alike from observation. The sun bursts not upon us at once in all his splendour, but reserves till the meridian his brightest rays; who, from the gay parterre, would select the gandy tulip, and reject from his bosom the

Having selected a variety of the most fashionable dresses, we have only a few remarks to make upon their more particular form. Pelisses are made to the shape of a walking length, to fit without a band. Fur trimmings have taken place of gold and coloured edgings. White muffs and tippets now distinguish the woman of fashion; boots must be edged with sable. Mantles are made longer and wider, trimmed with broad sable or swansdown; they have arm-holes, which,

small buttons; this is a great convenience, as it prevents the frequent exposure of the chest.

Morning dresses are made high in the neck, with lace let in on the bosom, in the form of a festoon of Bowers, or a bonquet, composed of the most delicate needlework and lace; the sleeves are worked with small sprigs to correspond; plain cambric is now preferred to the French cord. The sashes are of muslin, edged with lace. Trains are fashionable, but short dresses for convenience, are more general. Yellow Morocco shoes, with a small bunch of jonquilles worn in a lace cap with a full border, tied with a yellow handkerchief, render this a most becoming dress.

Dinner dresses are mostly made of cloth or steff, high in the neck, with a falling collar of fine embroidered muslin or frill of lace; bouquet of natural flowers in coloured embroidery on the bosom, worked round the arm-holds, with a wreath to correspond; long sleeves with Lice cuffs.

In the evening, or full-dress, the gowns are mostly made in the frock form, the sleeves long, and the waist much shorter. Grace and nature have once more resumed their empire, consequently the long stays are wholly ex ploded. Satins, velvets, gossamer gauses, and coloured crapes are much worn, bat fine India muslins, embroidered round the bottom, || accord best with the nymph like air of our youthful belles, with bouquets in the bosom, and flowers on the head placed à la-Daphne. Small sink jackets, edged with lace, are likewise simply elegant. Tiara caps, Persian, or Siciliau turbans, or silver gauze or muslin, are the prevailing ornaments for the head. The neck continues to be partially covered by a small lace handkerchief thrown over one

shoulder. Satin and swansdown tippets are still very fashionable, as are white satin coats and mantles, trimmed with swansdown. Mufis are very generally worn.

In respect to the fashion for jewellery, the Ceylon style most prevails. Necklaces of various coloured gems, crosses to correspond, earrings in the form of a pear; brooches representing the heart's-ease, flies, and a thousand other devices in towers, shells, and insects of exquisite beauty and workmanship, with girdles, clasps, coronets, and bracelets; neck laces of pink topaz and amethysts, with earrings to match, were all much worn at the Drawing-room.

No alteration has taken place in shoes except that they are edged with sable or fur, for the promenade; they continue to be much embroidered in silver for full dress. Plain silk stockings are preferred by our belles of fashion.

The prevailing colours for the season are ruby, emerald, amethyst, drab, rose, and olive-brown.

LADIES' DRESSES,

ON HER MAJESTY'S BIRTH-DAY.

Her Majesty A rich dark-green velvet petticoat superbly embroidered in gold sprigs, with a most magnificently elegant border,composed of shields in real gold, encircled by wreaths of laurel and gold beads, with wavy ornaments likewise in real frosted gold and spangles; the whole finished with scrolls of gold beads, with an open trillis-work of gold in the centre; the ground-work of the petticoat were sprigs of jessamine blossoms; the whole were tied up with rich gold cords and tassels; train to correspond with the petticoat, composed of a beautiful green and gold velvet tissue, trimmed with an elegant embroidery agreeable to the costume of Persia; this was by far the most suberb dress wore by the Queen ou her own birth day for many years past; we have heard that it was meant as complimentary to the Representative of the Persian Court.

Head dress, diamonds

extremely beautiful.
and fine ostrich feathers.

Princess Augusta—A rich dark-green velvet petticoat, elegantly embroidered in silver, shell, and laurel-work; draperies of very fine black lace, richly festooned with wreaths of silver-oak, tastefully looped up with silver cords and tassels to correspond with the petticoat; the bottom of the latter exhibited a border of exquisite workmanship, in rich shells of burnished and frosted silver, with branches of sea-weed interwoven; balloon tassels; train, an elegant green and silver tissue, trimmed with a rich silver lace.

Princess Elizabeth-Wore a magnificent dress of brown and gold; the right side of the dress a large triangular drapery extending across the front, composed of rich gold tissue, bordered with gold bells and branches of holly-leaves tastefully variegated, and contrasted with dead and bright foil, bullion, &c. and ornament in festoous with rich gold cords and tassels; smaller draperies in brown velvet, elegantly embroidered, and placed in different directions, completed this magnificent dress; the ground-work gold shells and spangles, with a rich border of plaited foil and spangled fringe as a termination; robe of brown and gold tissue, ornamented with gold point lace and diamonds.

Princess Mary-A dress of garter blue velvet, superbly embroidered with gold; a magnificeut drapery of an oval form, terminating in a point on the left side, formed the most striking part of this elegant dress; bottom of the petticoat a broad border in festoons of foil, with bunches of sea-weeds, completed the whole, which for taste and effect was unrivalled; robe, garter blue and gold tissue, ornamented with gold, point lace, and diamonds.

Princess Sophia of Gloucester-A white satin petticoat, richly embroidered with silver; crimson satin train, ornamented with silver. Head-dress, diamonds and feathers.

Princess Charlotte of Wales-A frock of a rich gold tissue, with a gold vaudyke spangled lace border.

Princess Castelcicala-A dress of orange satin, ornamented with draperies of black lace, and finished with elegant orange and black cords and tassels; robe black velvet, trimmed to correspond with the dress.

Duchess Dowager of Leeds-A superb petticoat of white crape richly embroidered in real

velvet, in a style perfectly unique and beauti ful, draperies richly embroidered and tastefully festooned with bunches of silver laurel and brilliant tassels; body and train of crimson velvet trimmed with silver point; head-dress, Caledonian cap of crimson velvet, diamonds, and ostrich feathers

Princess of Wales-The elegance and tastesilver, with a border embroidered on crimson displayed by her Roval Highness on this occasion were the most superb we ever witnessed; a Court train of rich white and gold figured satin, fancifully embroidered all round with a border of beautiful coloured foil, representing bullrushes and leaves, the heads of the rush superbly set round with diamonds, which had a brilliant effect: petticoat of rich white satin, embroidered to correspond; body and sleeves of rich rush velvet, studded all over with large diamonds; the drapery, and pocket holes looped up with diamonds, with a large diamond wreath across the drapery. The brilliant effect of this dress was

Marchioness of Salisbury-A rich brown fancy velvet robe and petticoat, with white satin front and facing, superbly embroidered with gold.

Countess of Selkirk-Body and train of puce velvet, trimmed with very fine point lace and gold braiding; petticoat of the same beauti

fully embroidered; draperies drawn aside and fastened with bunches of gold flowers.

Countess of Lindsay-A white satin petticoat, richly embroidered at the bottom; on the left side white satin, elegantly embroidered iu silver vandyke, and chains of massy silver; on right side, two points to correspond, groundwork of spangles, the draperies elegantly relieved with rich cords and tassels; body and train to correspond; head-dress, diamonds and feathers.

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Lady Dundas-Wore an elegant white and gold embroidered petticoat, ruby velvet draperies, tastefully ornamented with gold hyacinths, which had a novel and magnificent effect; ruby velvet train, elegantly trimmed with gold to correspond with the petticoat.

Lady Mayoress-A beautiful dress of violet velvet and silver, richly embroidered in wreaths of oak leaves and arrows, ornamented with bullion rope and silver doves. Head dress, feathers and diamonds.

Countess of Camden-A green velvet petti- Lady Diana Herbert-A blue satin petticoat, coat, with a gold spangled uct covered in front, || richly embroidered at the bottom in patent Jooped up with rich gold cord and tassels; body pearls; body and train to correspond. Headand train of the same to correspond. dress, pearls and feathers.

Countess of orentry-Violet and brown velvet, richly embroidered with wreaths of ivy leaf and gold; drapery with rich border of ivy in matted gold, ornamented with bullion ropes and tassels; this dress was particularly admired. Head-dress, feathers and diamonds

Countess of Bellamont-A blue satin dress, trimmed with sable. Head dress, feathers aud diamonds.

Viscountess Hawarden-A beautiful rose colour satin petticoat, with superb drapery of white lace; body and train of rose satin and Jace; head dress of white plumes and pearls ; pearl necklace and ear-rings.

Countess of Macclesfield-A scarlet and gold tissue robe, trimmed with scarlet and gold point lace, &c.; petticoat of white satin, al most covered with a drapery of Judiau gold tissue, edged round with scarlet and gold fringe, and tastened with large circular embossed gold plates, rich gold cord and tassels. Head dress, a fine plume of scarlet and gold feathers, with coronet and handeau of diamonds.

Countess of Carnarvon-An amber coloured tissue, richly embroidered with silver.

Countess of Uxbridge-An azure blue-velvet petticoat; draperies trimined with rich point lace and sable fur; body and train to correspond.

Lady Sindburn-Violet velvet, embroidered with wreaths of silver oak, drapery festooned with rich bullion, cords, and tassels; headdress, feathers and diamonds.

Lady M. Coots-Rose satin, with drapery of doves, festooned with cords and tassels; headdress, feathers and pearls.

Lady Arden-White crape petticoat, spotted all over with gold lilies, and embroidered all round with garter velvet and gold border; pocket holes and drapery fancifully embroidered to correspond; train of rich garter velvet, trimmed all round with gold fancy trimming.

Lady Perth-Rich morone velvet, superbly embroidered round; the petticoat and train of gold lame, with beautiful clusters of beads and different shades of chenille intermixed; the front very tastefully covered with save, body and sleeves to correspond; pockets also tastefully ornamented with a large gold tassel; head-dress of moroue velvet richly em broidered, with a plume of feathers and diamonds in front.

Lady Sidney Smith-A white satin petticoat with a tasteful border of crape, intermixed with beads; draperies of white crape, with festoons, richly embroidered in beads and chenille, on white satin, with elegant bead tassels to correspond; train of rich white satin, most elegantly embroidered in white beads, with a inost beautiful aigrette of diamonds.-Headdress, white ostrich feathers and diamonds, diamond necklace and earrings.

Lady Bunks-A white satin and crape drapery with fine sable; scarlet train.

Hon. Mrs Perceral-Petticoat of white satin, with rich embroidered border; a splendid drapery superbly worked in gold, and tied up with bullion cord and tassels; a robe, blue satin, also splendidly worked in gold to corre|| spond. Head-dress, a plume of blue feathers.

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Hon. Mrs. Pinkney-Geranium velvet, superbly embroidered in silver; drapery festooned with rich bullion rope and tassels; train of geranium velvet, richly embroidered in sil ver; head-dress, feathers and diamonds.

The Hon. Mrs. Stuart-Purple petticoat, ele gaut draperies of lace and black velvet, richly embroidered with gold, and tastefully ornamented with gold hyacinths and rich bullion cords and tassels; purple velvet train, trimmed with gold and lace to correspond.

Hon. Mrs. Rider.-A dress of piuk satin, elegantly ornamented with black lace and sil

ver.

monds.

Head-dress of pink feathers and dia

Mrs. General Cowell.-Petticoat of amber satin, drapery of rich black lace, body aud train the same. Head-dress, amber coloured feathers and diamonds.

Hon. Miss Perceval.-White crape and silver spotted petticoat and drapery, fancifully embroidered in topaz colour, and silver embroidery; body, sleeves, and train of rich topaz coloured satin, ornamented with silver, trimmed with rich point lace.

Miss Fox-A white satin dress, covered with beautiful Brussels lace, and tastefully ornamented with brilliant stars, bunches of hops and silver concave fans.

Two Miss Ruffos-Presented by their mother, the Princess Castelcicala, wore white crape dresses, elegantly trimmed with white satin ribbon and bunches of pink roses; robes, white satin, trimmed to correspond with the dresses.

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