me, by their mode of doing their "duties" and enforcing the payment of mine, that, when I opened my carpet bag to reveal the treasures of my industry, I found the portfolio in which my sketches were not! They were irrecoverably lost.

Of course, from Brussels we went to Waterloo; a spot so interestingly associated with my courier-gallop on a pony, shortly after the 18th of June, 1815, as detailed in the opening chapter of these memoirs. Architecturally speaking, the ruined chateau of Hougomont suggested to my mind, that fire and cannon-balls are not so successful in producing a picturesque result as time and weather. Morally speaking, the field of Waterloo is not so productive of satisfaction as might be, since I never met with a Frenchman who did not claim the victory, virtually, at least. In vain did my father-in-law argue with one, on the strength of the facts, that "Wellington got to Paris, and Napoleon did not get to Brussels." It is only to be lamented that the victors, whoever they may be, do not manifest a more practical belief in the often talked of interference of Heaven. We had for our guide the man whom Buonaparte (as we were informed) strapped to a horse and compelled to act as his local pilot, laughing at him for bobbing his head about as the bullets went through his whiskers, and reminding the terrified fellow that he was destined, in spite of his dodging, either to die before the battle was over, or to get drunk afterwards with the gold Napoleon presented to him.

On another occasion of holiday relaxation I visited Oxford, Blenheim, Stowe, and several of our great cathedrals. This was, in serious truth, an important architectural tour; and the result of much travel and experience since, is a confirmed opinion that, for collegiate, palatial, and ecclesiastical example, there is no country, the architecture of which, in respect to its strictly critical merits, is superior to what may be found in England.

After the close of my apprenticeship, I still remained for some time in London; for a time employed by my old master; occasionally making drawings for a well known architectural author; at times hopeful, at times desponding. Under the influence of my unfavouring stars I once thought of abandoning my loved profession for another; for my father-inlaw's circumstances became depressed, while his family necessities increased, and I could ill endure the thought of being a burthen to him. To keep up my architectural inclinations, however, he generously advanced me the means of visiting Cambridge; and I came of age in a cheap inn in that city, on the 26th of August, 1823. Again I fell into hopelessness; shocked my poor mother by going into "cheap and dirty" lodgings; rejected my friends' assistance with all the pride of poverty; tried literature, but could obtain no pay beyond the honour of seeing myself in print in one or two of the magazines, and began to wish, with Hamlet, that "the Almighty had not fixed his canon 'gainst selfslaughter." At length I obtained, through the interest of my friend R. M., employment for my pen in writing for a Topographical Dictionary. This cheered me on for another twelvemonth. My father-in-law, with all his family, then retiring to live in an humble way in Devonshire, he kindly took me with him; and, about the same time, some favourable arrangement of my deceased father's affairs (which had been in chancery since his death) seemed likely to be effected. On the strength of this, the money necessary for a year's travel in Italy was proffered me, and I employed my remaining stay in Devonshire by application to the study of the French and

Italian languages. During this period I visited a relative in the north of the county; saw a charming Scotch girl; fell in love of course; of course, was rejected by her, and laughed at by my friends on my return; that is, by all, save one, and that was my No. 1 sister. She looked interestedly upon me, and I was grateful. She had, moreover, herself become interesting, and I observed it. The merry school-girl was disappearing in the growth of womanhood; and a lady-like quietness, in which the earlier spirits were becoming qualified by a nicely proportioned degree of sedate pride, upbraided me for those brotherly ungallantries which I had, ere then, exhibited towards her. I will say no more at present on this subject, save that when I came to take leave of the family party on my departure for Italy, I felt a regret at leaving her which I had not anticipated.

Hey, then, for Italy! Christopher enjoyed not? Precisely the right, that

Yet, what right had I to a privilege which Sir
He never visited Italy.

all inferior men have, to make the best of a poor job. Precisely the policy which results from a due consideration of the question,

"How much a dunce, that has been sent to Rome,

Excels a dunce that has been kept at home?"

My observation had already confirmed me in two impressions; first, in respect to the real value of travel; and, secondly, in regard to the value of mere travel's repute. That a youth of industry and genius must greatly benefit by a student-tour, was obvious to me from an especial example in point. That the affectation of such a tour might. afford advantage, even to the most unimprovable dullard that ever had the sanction of the ignorant, was equally certain. Whatever real and substantial good may be gathered, by a student of ability, during a continental tour; there can be no doubt of the influence which the simple fact of having made such a tour, may have upon the fortunes of one, who might otherwise have been set apart among the incapables.

I had, therefore, every reason for desiring the advantage now put within my reach. Taking myself at the lowest, I had some encouragement and not venturing, at the time, to look higher, I have since accomplished an ascent up the ladder, which, though of very moderate elevation, is many steps above the level I dared look up to, when my master resigned to me the indentures of my passed apprenticeship.

SUMMER EXCURSIONS THROUGH THE SALZKAMMERGUT, IN UPPER AUSTRIA.*

WITH VISITS TO SALZBURG AND THE BATHS OF BAD GASTEIN.

FROM VIENNA TO LINZ.

ONE morning in the beginning of June I left my comfortable quarters, the Stadt Frankfurt, in Vienna, early enough to reach Nussdorf (from whence the steamers take their departure), in good time to have my baggage weighed, my passage-money paid, and to get on board without the hurry and bustle attending a more tardy arrival. Fortunately my effects were within the prescribed weight; and, here let me say, the lightness of my travelling accompaniments saved me much trouble and expense throughout my excursion. Seeing many passengers already on board, and recollecting that we should have to pass the night on the river, I descended at once into the cabin with my carpet-bag, which I arranged so as to supply the place of a pillow, and my peajacket to keep me warm, and there took possession of a snug corner, placing my effects in due order, and two or three books on the table before me, so as to indicate ownership; and I took good care several times in the course of the day to resume my seat, for the sake of variety, reading, and quiet, and that the world on board might recognise my right to it.

The evening preceding, and during the night, there had been much rain, and the morning was dark, hazy, and unpromising. We feared that we should have to pass a wet and disagreeable day in a crowded cabin; but, towards eight, it began to clear up, and soon after the jolly old sun burst forth, dispersing all the mists, and dispelling all our misgivings.

The first cabin of the steamer Dorothea, in which I took my passage, was tolerably large and well-fitted up: that of the Sophie, I understand, is much more capacious and splendid. I found the service pretty good and reasonable enough when the requirements were confined to the items mentioned on the tariff, the prices of which are therein regulated. Excellent coffee, milk, bread, as at Vienna, and a good table d'hôte, at half-past one at a moderate price (I forget how much). Besides which, one could have at any hour beefsteak and potatoes, or an excellent German dish, Snitzel mit kartoffeln (veal cutlet with potatoes), likewise stewed beef, which resembled our beef à la mode, and portions of various made dishes, which smelt good, and which the natives on board appeared to eat with great relish. But let the passenger, if he be an economist, beware of calling for any article, especially of luxury, not on the list. A young Triestene friend, travelling with me, asked for a small glass of sherry or Madeira; he was charged 24 kreuzers for his glass of wine, and 12 kreuzers for two very small biscuits. I thought proper to indulge in a petit verre; they brought me rum not too old, and it cost me

12 kreuzers.

As to the scenery on both sides of the Danube, I will not pretend to describe it, nor to particularise the different objects which attract the

A few copies of this Visit to the beautiful country of the Salzkammergut have been circulated.-ED.

observation of the passenger. Every tourist who wishes really to enjoy a voyage on such a magnificent river, should go to the expense of a panorama, which is to be bought very cheap at Vienna; for it is almost impossible to follow the description given in any book, of the various interesting objects which soon begin to present themselves rapidly to one's view at every turn on the river, both to the right and to the left. On the panorama there is not only the name of every remarkable edifice, whether palace, castle, church, or monastery, but also a small outline or sketch, so accurately delineated as to enable the beholder instantly to recognise and identify the place and name, without troubling with questions those around him.

For my part I prefer the passage on the Danube to that on the Rhine. Although there may not be seen any of those strikingly romantic windings, nor any of those beautiful openings bursting on the view, which several well-known parts of the Rhine present, yet on the whole the eye is more gratified, and the interest kept more alive, during the day on the Danube. For some miles after leaving Nussdoff, the borders on both sides are flat but not unprofitable, judging from the cultivation; soon after the heights begin to appear, and accompany us the remainder of the day. The most remarkable charm in the Austrian scenery is the exquisitely beautiful verdure of field and of forest. From the verge of the banks on each side of the river, there intervenes a verdant valley, extending to the base of those magnificent hills, or mountains rather, and those, clothed to their summits with the everlasting pine, wearing the same charming livery of Nature. Instead of the castle in ruin, or the rugged inaccessible hold of some former brigand chief, which in times gone by excited our interest on the Rhine, we have here on every commanding elevation some fine church or stately monastery, or some castle which appears habitable and inhabited by some lordly possessor. Several of the religious edifices are quite princely, particular that on the left, called the Mölk, which brought to my recollection some engravings I had seen of the Escurial. I was informed by a gentleman on board that, vast as was the establishment, it was completely filled, and that its occupants, the brothers, devoted themselves to the instruction and the good of all around.

Every Englishman in passing will regard with particular interest the castle of Durrenstein on the right, in which our Lion Richard was some time a prisoner; his deliverance forms such a pretty and romantic incident in our history, that it seems scarcely worth while to throw doubts on the authenticity of the legend, as some historians have done; but, at all events, we may still believe it, if we like, in spite of the prosaic conclusions of matter-of-fact writers, for if it cannot be proved, it cannot be disproved at this distance of time.

The day passed rapidly and pleasantly; the weather was fine and the passengers sociable. I recollect being called on deck from below by my friend to view the most beautiful spectacle of a wide and perfect circle, tinged at the inner extremity by the prismatic colours surrounding at some distance the sun, then enthroned in his meridian glory. I recollect also a trifling circumstance of a perfectly mundane character, and scarcely worth mentioning, but to show that our enjoyment of the dilemmas of those around us, which they say we are all more or less prone to feel, may sometimes be testified mal-à-propos. An infirm old gentleman, whom I had observed in the morning an object of great care

and attention to his family, had occasion to go into a certain cabinet on board, the door of which fastened itself in the interior, by a contrivance very clever and ingenious for the initiated, but very puzzling and difficult to re-open by those unskilled in the understanding of locks, as the poor bungling inmate proved to be; and the consequence was, that he was kept, or rather kept himself, prisoner for some time, nor could the bawling explanation of the steward and others on the outside, enable him to discover the secret-spring. This made some noise on board, and a young man sitting near me on deck inquiring the cause and being informed, rubbed his hands with gleeful satisfaction, laughing heartily, and exclaiming, "What a droll thing, how diverting!" A few moments after he was called by one of his family to come below, and to assist his father out of his durance vile. I shall not easily forget the sudden elongation of our young man's countenance. I conclude the poor captive was released after a time, for I saw the door wide open in the morning.

The night proved dark and foggy, and we were obliged to anchor some hours, it being dangerous to pass the rapids of Werbil and Strudel, near Grain, without good and sufficient light to steer the vessel through them. I understand, at this part of the river, the scenery is very interesting and romantic, and I regretted the obscurity which enveloped every object in one universal thick and misty mantle of night. Here let me make a digression to caution my reader from addressing or asking a question of the man at the wheel; for the smallest distraction on his part from his fixed attention to the course of the stream, might cause a deviation, and run the vessel on one of the many shoals which render the steerage on this river so difficult, and oblige the helmsman to vary his course every moment.

In the night, profiting by my foresight, I enjoyed some hours of sleep in my snug corner. We arrived about eight o'clock at Linz, and each, accompanied by a porter, directed his steps to the hotel which he had decided to patronise.

Instigated by the earnest persuasion of the steward, my friend and I went to the Rothen Krebs (Red Crab), on the banks of the river, which, although a second-rate hotel, we found comfortable enough, but somewhat dear. I rather think that the bottle of wine I saw the steward enjoying with a friend in the afternon, was a bonus for recommending two of his passengers to the hotel, and for which, we doubtless paid in some shape in our reckoning. I was told by a fellow traveller who had gone to the Erzherzog Carl (Archduke Charles), that the charges were very high, but the situation very agreeable, and the accommodation first rate. The Goldene Löwe (the Golden Lion) was most favourably spoken of by others as very comfortable, clean, and moderate. Should it be my good fortune to revisit Linz, I shall make a point of going

there.

One day in my opinion is quite enough for Linz, its charming situa tion on the banks of the Danube being its chief attraction, although it is certainly a fine town and a lively one. There are some fortifications on a new principle, the invention of the Prince Maximilian d'Este, well worth visiting I was afterwards told. In the afternoon my friend and I made an excursion to a place called the Maddalena, on the other side of the river, to which we were conveyed by a carriage on the tramroad, and where we found an excellent cup of coffee, and a superb view