commenced, but they were now all out of repair, and the Canal all but dry; accordingly we had to leave our boats and hire carts. The road ran nearly parallel with the Canal, and so we had the pain of seeing its dilapidated appearance, every now and then; we were told that it was useless for between sixty and seventy miles, but receiving a supply from the Yellow River, it again became navigable, and continued so on to its ancient termination.

Proceeding onwards, we found cotton growing in great abundance, and whole families, and especially the female portion of the households, busy picking the wool. Here, for the first time, I met with numbers of those extraordinary wheelbarrows propelled by sails, familiar to most of us in written accounts of China, but seen by so few ; at first sight we hardly knew what to make of them-something moving along on dry ground with a sail set.

The next morning we came in sight of the fine bell tower of Tung-chang-foo, and at last reached the city about 8 o'clock, A.M. We found it to be a most important place; the city was in good order, well fortified, and with a fine bell tower in the center. But the eastern suburbs far exceeded the city proper in importance; they were most extensive, and the trade appeared enormous. I had seen nothing equal to them, unless it be the eastern suburbs of Shanghai, or the great north street of Tien-tsin. The city was nearly surrounded by water, partly by canal and the Yellow River. In summer time pleasure boats ply for hire all round the place.

Up to this point of our journey we found it somewhat difficult to identify places which are mentioned in the old books, but here the country began to be exceedingly

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rich in historical associations; this feature increased every day, culminating in the Temple and Tomb of Confucius, though not ceasing there. This city is supposed to take its name from a very famous man called Chang," who rose in rebellion against Chow, the last emperor of the Yin dynasty, and having defeated him, took the little Wang (king) Wan, of Chow, and founded the Chow dynasty, of which his son Woo was the first Emperor. He lived about B.C. 1100.

Having spent some hours in the city, we again set out, few objects of interest presenting themselves. Passing a village called Wo-chung, hills appeared in sight; we knew that the famous Yellow River skirted their bases, and so our enthusiasm began to rise. The road became extremely soft and clayey, and we were nearly stuck fast; this part of the country having evidently been recently overflowed by "China's Sorrow." Slowly the river dawned upon our vision, like a mighty yellow dragon lying at rest on the level soil: at two o'clock we reached the ferry; there also we found a military post, for it was said there were bands of mounted robbers in the neighborhood; the soldiers were very civil.

We found the river broad, rapid and muddy; though not so broad as we anticipated; much wider than the Thames at London bridge. There were multitudes of ferry boats of all sizes plying, and having selected one of the largest, had our cart and mules and ourselves quickly placed on board, as we wished to travel forty l further that afternoon.

Our route lying direct through the scene of Great Yu's labors, I endeavored to pierce the mystery of that great flood which has so long interested Chinese scholars, and

which is graphically described in the Shoo-King and in Mencius; and also tried to identify the hills and the rivers operated upon by that indefatigable minister. Consulting old maps of China, we find that in very ancient times the Yellow River called the Ho followed a very different course from what it now pursues; it flowed north into Chi-lí province, then north and east, disemboguing itself somewhere near the present Ta-k'ow, probably by the channel of that river now called the Pei-ho. Keeping this in view, and considering the nature of the country which we have just described, we gain not a little light upon the point. The whole district, containing the greater part of Chi-lí, the northwestern part of Shantung, and all around, extending over I knew not how many hundred square miles, is one great plain full of marshes, many parts little, if any, above the level of the sea. This river is not only one of the largest in the world, but the most wayward; it is constantly breaking through its banks, and changing its course, and has been a perpetual source of anxiety to every dynasty; and great the labor and fabulous the sums which have been expended upon it.

But to return to our journey: having disembarked, we made for the village of Li-lieu-Kiau, one li distant, about Lat. 36° 25′ N., Long. 116° 18′ E. Here the roads became so bad, that they were impassable even for carts, and we had to turn to the wheel-barrows. Owing to the proximity of the rebels there was a large military force here: the men seemed far superior to the average of Chinese soldiers. We next day entered a hilly district, and crossed several streams, skirting the side of a picturesque lake abounding with water-fowl.

Having gained the level country again, we stopped at Tung-ping-chow. This city lies on a river, and is a place of considerable trade. The neighboring farmers were engaged in sowing wheat at the time of my visit; large quantities of arrow-root grow near this city and suburbs. Here we again stood on historical ground. This is the district anciently called Tung-yuen, referred to in the Shoo-King as having been successfully brought under cultivation by the operations of the Great Yu. The soil and trees still correspond with the description given more than four thousand years ago. It is still clayey, red and rich, and the trees and grass strong and bushy. (ShooKing, Book I, Chap. V.)

The city had evidently taken its name from that same passage in the Shoo-King, Tung-ping, the Eastern Plain, and hence called Tung-ping-chow. The city is famous in history. After the murder of the emperor Seang, 5th of the Hea dynasty, the Bamboo Books tell us that his empress Min fled to Yew-jing, the old name for this place; it would also appear as if this were the birthplace of ShauK'ang, the succeeding emperor. Again, in this neighborhood was fought the great battle which put an end to the Hea dynasty, and introduced the dynasty of Shang. History informs us that several times the inhabitants of this district have been driven from their homes by inundations of the Yellow River. One flood, more disastrous in its effects than the others on record, occurred A.D. 1344.

Continuing towards Yen-chow-fu, we crossed the classic river the Wên-ho; it was broad, full of water, and well supplied with ferry-boats. All Chinese scholars know of this stream; it is one of the rivers mentioned in the tribute

of Yu, as that by which the produce of the north country was conveyed to the river Tsi, and thence to the capital. It is also mentioned in the Lun-yü, where Min-tse-K’een, not wishing to serve the K'e family, says, “Decline for me the honor positively. If any one come again to me with a second invitation, I shall go and live on the banks of the Wên."

Having crossed the river, we reached the city of Wenshang-hien; the gates were closed through dread of the rebels, and we had some difficulty in obtaining admission. We remained but a short time, and drove on for Yen-chow-fu, which we reached the same afternoon. Our attention was arrested by a fine grove of tall cypress trees, with a tall grave in front. We found that it was the burial place of Hwuy, of Lew-new, mentioned in the books of Confucius and Mencius; he was an officer of the kingdom of Loo, was a man of virtue and talents, and holds a conspicuous place in the present day amongst the writers of China.

Soon the pagoda and walls of Yen-chow-fu came in sight: I was now approaching the district rendered classic as being the birthplace of the two great sages of China, and the scene of many of the more important events in their lives. The city takes its name from one of the nine divisions of China, into which, we are informed, the Supreme Ruler in a vision told Yu to divide the empire. It stands in the center of the old kingdom, or dukedom, called Loo, so often referred to in the Classics. This is certified, among other things, by an inscription of four large characters over the top of the west gate, telling us that to the west lay Chau and Wei, and we knew that Loo lay to the east of these places. The