34

PLAIN OF ESDRELON.

ing corn. Through the imprudence of a servant, the corn was set on fire, and the flames spread with frightful rapidity; and it was not without the greatest exertions that we succeeded in extinguishing them. I cannot think, without shuddering, of the fatal results which might have attended this accident, if it had occurred during the hours of sleep.

My extreme weariness, however, did not prevent me from thinking of the morrow, which was to be marked by my entry into Nazareth. It was to be a happy day, a holyday, for me. After all my travelling companions were asleep, I was still waking; and the anticipation of my felicity more than once interrupted my short repose.

By two in the morning, my moucro (the man who took care of my mules) had already laden my baggage; and I, the first on horseback, hastened our departure as much as possible.

We had been for some time among the hills of Galilee, when, at day-break, we perceived before us the very beautiful and very fertile plain of Esdrelon, or valley of Jesrael, so celebrated in Scripture for the death of Saul and of Josiah, and in modern history for the meeting of the kings of Jerusalem, Cyprus, and Hungary, when they were attempting to reconquer the holy places. This magnificent plain, about twenty leagues in length, or two days' journey, according to the expression of the Arabs, presented to the eye a most enchanting prospect.

On the left extended a chain of hills, between which was discerned Mount Carmel; before us rose Mount Tabor, like an immense and superb dome, above which the sun, already showing half his disk, surrounded by

HOSPITALITY OF THE BEDOUINS.

35

clouds of gold and crimson, began to pour far around a flood of light.

The air was cool and light. The plain was covered in several places with tents belonging to different tribes of Bedouins, whose numerous herds were pasturing around them. Horsemen appeared at different points, and long trains of camels were carrying large sheaves of wheat.

As these were friendly tribes, all fear of danger was of course at an end; accordingly, most of the soldiers of our escort left us, and we continued our journey with few guards.

I have already had occasion to mention the touching cheerfulness with which the Bedouins exercise hospitality it would be difficult to carry that virtue to a higher point. Their chiefs came and entreated us most respectfully to permit them to dress a sheep for us; we declined the offer: they appeared mortified at our refusal, though it was accompanied by the expression of our thanks. Some of our people, however, consented to accept some milk. It was a subject of envy and even of pain to such of these good creatures as had nothing to offer, or whose offers were not accepted.

Rumour had preceded Messrs. Catafago and Bernard, senior, and announced their very speedy return to Nazareth, where they resided during part of the summer, and where they were well known. Almost the whole population was in motion to meet them, and to receive the new-married couple with demonstrations of joy. The multitude was headed by a great number of horsemen, magnificently mounted and armed, acting a sham-fight. The hills re-echoed the shouts of joy, and the reports of

36

ARRIVAL AT NAZARETH.

muskets and pistols, with which were mingled the sounds of instruments, and particularly the tambourine.

An accident, that might have been serious, suspended the rejoicings for a few moments. The horses manoeuvred in unequal and stony roads, where it was difficult to guide them. That of M. Louis Catafago, the consul's eldest son, ran away with him, and suddenly fell in so dangerous a spot that we thought it was all over with him. Fortunately, however, he rose without sustaining any injury, and we came off with the fright.

The nearer we approached, the greater became the concourse the shouts of joy and the discharges of firearms were redoubled. Amid this noisy train was seen the bridegroom, mounted on a splendid Arabian mare, sumptuously caparisoned; for which, by the way, he had refused an offer of fifteen thousand francs. The bride, covered from head to foot with a very richly embroidered veil, was led by two Arabs; her own and her husband's mother, who were about ten paces behind her, wept for joy. Every body, out of respect, kept at a distance from

them.

All this rejoicing, however, all the pomp of the scene before me, did not cause me to forget that I was a pilgrim, and only a league from the august spot where the WORD became flesh: I had constantly kept at as great a distance as I could; and, the nearer we approached, the more I slackened my pace. At length I stopped altogether, waiting till the multitude should be at such a distance that I could not hear its noise. I then pursued my route, and entered Nazareth bare-headed. Father Perpetuus, secretary of the Holy Land, who had arrived.

from Jerusalem a few hours before, having perceived me from the platform of the convent, hastened down to the door and threw himself into my arms.

I expressed to him my desire to proceed forthwith to the church he cheerfully conducted me thither; and there, on the very spot of the Incarnation, I spent my first moments in adoring Jesus Christ, the Saviour of the world, blessed for ever.

LETTER XXXVIII.

ILLNESS-VERMIN-PLAGUE - NAZARETH-POPULATION-CHURCHSANCTUARY OF THE INCARNATION- ST. LOUIS-JOSEPH'S WORKSHOP -SYNAGOGUE FROM WHICH JESUS WAS DRIVEN BY THE JEWS-STONE TABLE AT WHICH HE SOMETIMES ATE WITH HIS DISCIPLES-ROCK FROM WHICH THE JEWS DESIGNED TO THROW HIM RUINS OF A MONASTERY DEDICATED TO THE VIRGIN MARY- ENVIRONS OF NAZARETH -ENORMOUS WOLF-MARY'S WELL- MARY'S FOUNTAIN-ANECDOTE EXCURSION TO MOUNT TABOR-ADMIRABLE VIEW-EXPLANATION OF THE ENIGMA IN THE LAST LETTER-REJOICING OF THE CHRISTIANS FOR THE TAKING OF ST. JEAN D'ACRE.

Nazareth, June 10, 1832.

I have been ill, my dear friend. I was silly enough to leave my bed-room windows open at night, and have paid rather dearly for that imprudence, which is more dangerous here than anywhere else. To-day I am better; but still I am afraid that I have not quite got over it. I continue to feel an extraordinary lassitude, which the want of rest tends to keep up.

The bugs seem to conspire with other vermin, innumerable in this country, to disturb your slumbers, or rather to prevent you from closing your eyes. The na

tives, though having habitually to endure this species of annoyance, are themselves not accustomed to it: they complain of it as of a plague. Nothing, however, would be easier than to rid themselves of it. The means are simple and attainable alike by the poor and the rich-cleanliness. But, in regard to this point, the utmost degree of indolence universally prevails; and some even entertain a sort of commiseration for these swarms of enemies, which is almost incredible, and which makes them even scruple to destroy them. "What are you doing, brother?"-"Shaking my cloak to get rid of the insects that annoy me." "But why don't you kill them?"—"Ah! poor things! I can't help pitying them!" And yet such people lament and complain!

The plague has broken out at Jaffa: it is also making great havoc at Bethlehem and Rama; and it has appeared at Jerusalem, but with less violence. It is said that Beyrout is not free from it, and that this terrible scourge is spreading in the island of Cyprus. We are threatened with it. Shall we be able to escape? I reholy and adorable will of God, who strikes and who saves as he sees fit.

sign myself to the

Nazareth, which the inhabitants consider as a handsome, well-built place, in comparison with the other towns of this country, is, in reality, but a mean and wretched village. The houses, in general small, are irregularly grouped on the slope and at the foot of a hill, which rises amphitheatrically and overlooks it. The most considerable edifices are:- the monastery, a handsome, extensive structure, built with extreme solidity; an ancient Christian church, converted by the Turks into a