28

ANECDOTE OF THE GREEK WAR.

a fact confirmed by the captain and the whole crew of the Ulysses-a fact characteristic of those times of confusion and horror, when the thirst of blood provoked the thirst of blood. Unfortunately, the Greeks proved themselves quite as barbarous as the Turks. They were oppressed, it is true; but to such a degree did they sully their cause, that we ask ourselves, in amazement, which was most atrocious, the Mussulman or the Christian.

The Greeks of the island of Cyprus had taken no part in the insurrection. They were required to deliver up their arms; they gave them readily and submissively; they did more, they carried to Coutsciouk-Mehemet, governor of the island, a present of one hundred thou sand piastres, begging him to send it to the Sublime Porte, and to procure for them a firman, which, doing justice to their fidelity, might protect them from any vexation. That monster promised all they wished, and made them pay dearly for his promises. He called together several times the archbishop, the four bishops, and all the notables of the island; he assured them most graciously that he had just despatched a Tatar to Constantinople, that he had written in their behalf to the Sultan, that he had supported their just demand with all his influence, that he would rather die than do them the least harm; and, moreover, that he was certain that the Grand Signor would be favourable to them. The Tatar, however, did not come back with the firman. The archbishop, a man of extraordinary merit and superior understanding, who was acquainted with the villany of the governor, began to be alarmed. He went one day to Coutsciouk-Mehemet, and expressed his ap

ANECDOTE OF THE GREEK WAR.

29

prehensions. "Be easy," replied the governor, "I swear by the Koran and the great prophet that the sword shall never touch thy neck. May Allah punish me if I forswear myself."

This oath cheered the archbishop. His fears, however, were but too well founded. In hopes of possessing himself of the property of the principal Greeks of the island of Cyprus, Coutsciouk-Mehemet had sent a report, the very reverse of what he had promised. He had described the Greek archbishop, bishops, and notables, as factious men, ready to rise against the Porte and to shake off the Ottoman yoke.

The Tatar at length returned from Constantinople. The governor sent word to the archbishop, the four bishops, and the ninety-three notables of the island, that he had received a firman which surpassed in clemency all that he could have hoped for, and he invited them to repair to Nicosia to hear it read. They went thither, not only without fear, but with joy. What was their surprise, their consternation, when the cruel Coutsciouk, appearing among them, read to them a firman, ordering them all to be put to death! How is it possible to describe this terrible scene! Some threw themselves on their knees, in a state of despair, calling upon Heaven to witness their innocence; others, fired with rage, called down vengeance upon such atrocious barbarity, unparalleled in the annals of nations; some uttered, in voices broken by sobs, the names of their wives and children, and commended themselves to the Father of mercies; others attempted to flee, but escape was impossible. The archbishop advanced towards the

30

CHARACTER OF THE GREEKS.

perfidious governor, to reproach him with his crime, and to remind him of his oath. "I promised thee," replied the monster, "that the sword should not touch thy neck. I will keep my word; thou shalt be hanged." This was the signal for the carnage.

Seated on his divan, cross-legged, his pipe in his mouth, surrounded by his satellites, Coutsciouk-Mehemet coolly pointed out those who were to be the first victims, and laughed with his councillors at the sight of the anguish of those who awaited death. Many other Greeks were beheaded, their property confiscated, their wives and daughters imprisoned. . . . But I pause ...

Ought I here to place on record a thought, which, whenever I happen to be speaking of Greece, comes across my mind and saddens my heart? I know not; but it escapes me. The Greek nation, which has always excited such a strong interest, for which all other nations have made such sacrifices, never had it at heart to prove itself truly worthy of them: and in these latter times, when it had so fair a cause to defend, it knew not how to answer the expectations that were formed of it. No doubt there are in its bosom honourable exceptions; this, I cheerfully acknowledge, I can even myself attest; but those who form these exceptions are too few in number to prevent me from declaring that, in spite of the fanaticism, in spite of the aversion for the sciences, in spite of the despotism and the cruelty, of the Mussulman, I prefer a Turk to a Greek. For him who has studied the character of both nations, and has observed them closely, it is unnecessary to justify this preference.

27th. The captain of the Ulysses, as I have already

A CONTRARY WIND.

31

remarked, is an excellent man; but he combines some superstition with his originality. Yesterday evening, he was in a particularly good humour. We were in sight of Cyprus; the wind was most favourable, and we were advancing at a rapid rate. I went up to him and asked when we were likely to arrive at Larnaca, where we were to land, if the wind should continue as it then was. He gave me no answer; I repeated my question; he seemed vexed, looked black, and replied: "It is wrong to ask such questions; they bring ill luck." I could not help smiling, but held my tongue. In the night, the wind became contrary; I perceived it immediately. This morning, at dawn, when I went upon deck, the captain came to me, and said, with an angry look, turning at the same time towards this unlucky wind: "That is your doing, father!" I had a good mind to answer like the idle schoolboy, whose master peevishly asked him: "Who made the heavens and the earth?" and who cried out, all in tears: "I did, I did; but will I never do so any more." The contrary wind continued the whole day.

28th. The wind rather more favourable.

29th. A good wind. At three o'clock we were off Larnaca. We were just about to enter the road, when a sanitary boat came and brought us the melancholy intelligence that the cholera was making frightful havoc at Alexandria, and throughout all Egypt and Syria, and that all intercourse with those countries was broken off. We came from Venice; but we could not obtain permission to land without proving that we had had no communication with any other vessel, while at sea.

32

ISLAND OF CYPRUS.

This evening we came to an anchor; we were regular, and were allowed to land. To make me forget his little whims, the captain hoisted, with the Austrian flag, that of Jerusalem, which he had on board by the greatest of accidents; he proposed even to salute me with all his guns at the moment of going ashore. I had great difficulty to prevail upon him to abstain from so silly an act, which would have thrown ridicule both on himself and on me, a poor Trappist.

I wrote immediately to the Austrian consul, M. Antonio Caprara; I sent him the letters of recommendation that I had for him; I begged him to inform the Franciscan friars of the Holy Land of my arrival, and to say that I wished to lodge with them.

September 30th. I landed, and called upon the Austrian consul, who took me in his carriage to Larnaca, and introduced me to his wife, his children, his chancellor, and his drogmans. I then went to the convent of the Franciscan friars, who received me with religious humility and charity.

I cannot tell you, my dear friend, what a consolation I feel on finding myself again in a monastery. I cannot tire of sadly contemplating those long cloisters, half in ruins, those arms.of Jerusalem on all the walls, those monks, far away from their native land, beneath a sultry sky, singing the praises of the Lord, among Turks, Greeks, and Arabs.

The Turks of this country respect the pilgrims, whom they call hadji. I wear my religious habit, an object of curiosity to the multitude, though they never think of annoying me or turning me into derision. These good