About the ruins of this temple are still to be seen the remains of several houses built of brick, wherein some have conjectured that the priests of Diana resided, who had the care of the virgin-priestessEŚ, but not till they had been made eunuchs. Not far from these ruins is the morass before spoken of, full of reeds and rushes, which some have taken for the lake Selensinia mentioned by Strabo; but others place that lake on the opposite side of the Cayster, where there is a small standing water which to us appeared muddy as we viewed it at a distance.

The last thing we took notice of hereabouts is a building of white marble called St. Paul's prison, which stands on a hill half a mile Westward of Diana's temple. The structure, I confess, is strong enough to deserve the name, consisting of thick walls, which are not much decayed, though they have the appearance of antiquity. It is divided into four rooms. and has only one entrance. But from the convenience of the situation, I rather judge it to have been a watch-tower than a prison; for it affords us a fine prospect of the sea Westward of the town, Eastward of the windings of the river Cayster, and, in a word, of the whole plain, and the several ancient ruins I have been describing.

Before we leave Ephesus, let us just look back into history, and single out some of the most remarkable events that have relation to that city, from the time of its happy and flourishing condition, to its present state of desolation and obscurity. To search after the names of the founders of Ephesus would be a laborious and fruitless enquiry; for it is of no great consequence to know whether it was built by the Amazons, or Androclus, or one of the sons of Cod.

rus king of Athens. We find the city made some figure during the wars between the Athenians and Lacedæmonians, and was generally so politic and careful of her own interest, as to keep a good understanding with the strongest side. Alexander the Great after the battle of the Granicus, came to Ephesus, and there established a democracy; the place was taken by Lysimachus, one of his successors; and Antigonus in his turn got possession of it, and there seized the treasures of Polyspechhon.

History tells us that Hannibal had an interview with Antiochus at Ephesus, to concert measures against the Romans. The pro-consul Manlius spent the winter there after he had defeated the Galatians. A terrible massacre was made of the Romans in this city, by order of Mithridates. Pompey and Cicero, the last of whom made no step in Greece without finding new subjects of admiration, did not fail to visit so renowned a city as Ephesus. But Scipio, the father-in-law of Pompey, did not shew any great respect for this place, for he seized the treasures of Diana's temple. St. Paul's preaching at Ephesus is well known to Christians; and it is thought that St John, after our Saviour's death, chose this city for his residence: it is certain, he retired thi ther when he was released from his banishment, and there wrote his gospel, as has been already observed; and in this city St. Timothy the first pastor of the Ephesian church, is said to have suffered martyrdom. Augustus honoured Ephesus with a visit, and the inhabitants erected temples to Julius Cæsar and to the city of Rome. Tiberius rebuilt great part of it: on the other hand, the Persians plundered it in the third century, and not long afterwards it suffered

in the same manner from the Scythians. In all probability the celebrated temple of Diana was finally destroyed under Constantine, in consequence of an edict of that emperor, whereby he commanded that all heathen temples should be demolished.

This city was too considerable to be overlooked, and consequently was exposed to the ravages of the Mahometans as well as its neighbours. Anna Comnena, relates, that the infidels having made themselves masters of Ephesus in the reign of her father Alexis, he sent thither John Ducas his father-in-law with a body of troops, who defeated the Mahome, tans in the Ephesian plain below the citadel, taking two thousand of them prisoners. As this battle was near the ancient citadel, of which it is probable that Comnena speaks, it is evident that a fine part of the city must have been destroyed. In the beginning of the thirteenth century Theodorus Lascaris made him self master of Ephesus. The Mahometans returned thither again in the reign of Andronicus Paleologus, who came to the throne in the year 1288, Mantachias, one of their princes, conquered all Caria; and was succeeded by Homur, son of Atin, prince of Smyrna

After the battle of Angora, the victorious Tamer lane commanded all the little princes, of Asia Minor to come and join him at Ephesus, and spent a whole month in plundering the city and the neighbouring country; carrying away, according to Ducas, not only the gold, silver, and jewels, but even the very cloaths of the inhabitants. Soon after the departure of the conqueror, Cineites, a great Turkish captain, son of Carasupasi, who had been governor of Smyrna under, Bajazet, declared war against the children of

Atin, who had settled at Ephesus. He immediately ravaged the country at the head of five hundred men; and afterwards, with a larger number of troops; attacked and took the citadel. But some time after, another Homur, brother of the former, (who was then dead) entered into a league with Mantachias prince of Caria, who assisted him with an armiy of six thousand men, with which they marched to besiege Ephesus. Carasupaši, the father of Cineites commanded in the city; having a garrison of three thousand men; and his son Cineites was then at Smyrna. The Ephesians made a vigorous defence: notwithstanding which, the besiegers found means to set fire to the city, and in two days time the greatest part of it was reduced to ashes. Carasupasi retired to the citadel, and held out bravely for a considerable time; but his son being not able to send him any succours, he at length surrendered to Mantachias, who restored Ephesus and its territory to Homur, and imprisoned Carasupasi and his principal officers in the castle of Mamalus, on the borders of Caria. Hereupon Cineites went on board a galley, and sailed to Manalus; and having given his father notice of his arrival, he and his fellow-prisoners plied the guards with liquor till they made them drunk, and then taking the advantage of their insensibility, they let themselves down the walls of the castle by ropes, and escaped to Smyrna. Having a little recovered themselves, at the beginning of the winter they undertook the siege of Ephesus, when Homur, in his turn, was forced to retire into the citadel, the city being abandoned to the soldiers, who com mitted all manner of outrages without restraint. In the midst of these calamities, however, peace was

made between the contending parties, and Cineites gave Homur his daughter in marriage. Ephesus afterwards fell into the hands of Mahomet the First, who having overcome not only all his brothers, but all the Mahometan princes who opposed and embarrassed him, remained at last in peaceable possession of the empire: and from that time the Turks have continued masters of Ephesus; but the place is now inconsiderable, its trade having been removed to Smyrna and Scalanova.

On the 10th of November we set out from Ephesus for Smyrna, attended by the same Janizary who had conducted us from Scalanova, who was well acquainted with the several roads, and on whom we thought our safety in a great measure depended. About a mile and a half from the castle of Ephesus we passed the river Cayster over a handsome bridge, built chiefly with antique marbles, under which the stream runs very swiftly, and turns some mills at a little distance. As we travelled along the valley, we had steep frightful mountains on our left; but after riding a few miles they had a more agreeable aspect, being covered with woods of fine olive-trees, which grow without any culture, and yet bear excellent fruit, much more than the people of the country are able to gather. The road from hence over the mountains, which is the nearest, is most infested with robbers; upon which account our Janizary advised us to keep to the Eastward along the plain, where we could not be so easily surprised by those unwelcome visiters. After travelling five or six hours, sometimes through woods, and sometimes in an open country, with a range of mountains still on our left, we came to a large Turkish burying-ground,