Anglo-Saxons, and the Danes, for long hair-Anecdote of Wulstan-The
Normans wore their hair short-The former fashion revived, and denounced by
the clergy-Anecdote of Serlo-The hair, in consequence, worn short-Long
hair again becomes prevalent-Is checked in the reign of Stephen, but not sub-
dued-Fashion of curling the hair from the 12th century to the time of Richard,
the Second-Quotation from Chaucer-Succeeding fashions in the wear of the
hair-how worn in the days of John Halle-His hoary locks-Worn long in the
reign of Henry, the Seventh, but cropped in that of Henry, the Eighth-Long
hair revived in the days of the Stuarts-The love-lock-Opposite fashions of
the Cavaliers and Round-heads-Origin of the peri-wig-Its decline as a fashion
-Still retained by the Bishop, and the Judge-Short hair allied with democracy
-Hair-powder

66

p. 133-144

“Beard.”—Etymology of the word-Worn by the Jews-by the Greeks and

Romans-Anecdote of Zoilus-Worn by the Greeks till the time of Alexander

-By the Romans till the year 454 A. U. C.-The Greeks dedicated the first clip-

pings of the hair, and the Romans the first mowings of their chins to the Gods

-Age, at which the Romans first shaved-Epigram of Martial-Hadrian, the

first Roman Emperor, who wore the beard-The beard, a symbol of wisdom-

Horace quoted to that effect-The alliance doubted in a terse epigram-The

philosopher associated with the beard-To stroke, or pull, the beard considered

a great indignity-Anecdote of a noble Jew-Another of King Arthur, and

the giant Ritho-For a man to stroke his own beard considered in later ages an

appeal for favourable consideration-Quotation from Hudibras to that effect-

Swearing by the beard-Testimony of Diodorus Siculus and Cæsar, that the

ancient Britons shaved the upper lip-Error of the latter-Denial on the part

of the Author, that they did shave every part of their body, omne parte

corporis rasa"-The mustache-Error of Planche, and others, proved by a

quotation from Strabo-The mustache adopted by the ancient Britons as an

object of terror-Not such at the present day-Custom of the Anglo-Saxons

with regard to the beard-Edict of William, the Conqueror-Probable intention

thereof Revival of the beard-Denunciations of Serlo, the Norman Bishop,

against it-Anecdote of Louis VII.-William cum barbâ-Custom of succeed-

ing reigns-Anecdote of Edward, the Second-Fashion of wearing the beard in

full vigour in the reigns of Edward, the Third, and Richard, the Second-

Subsequent decline of the fashion-Beard of John Halle-In succeeding reigns

the beard only partially worn, and in the reign of Henry, the Seventh, it went

out of fashion-Revived in the reign of Henry, the Eighth-Then worn by the

clergy-Remarks by Harrison on the fashion of the beard-Universally worn in

the reign of Elizabeth-Introduction of the beardlet-The beard finally extinct

in the days of Queen Anne-Humorous remarks of the Spectator-Attempted

revival of the beard-The beard of the picture contrasted with its reality-

Quotation from Taylor, the "Water Poet"-Beard of Hudibras p. 144-170

"The Partelet."-Etymology of the word-When introduced-More in fashion
in the time of Henry, the Eighth-The partlet of John Halle-The ladies of
that æra more employed in domestic concerns-Quotation from the Paston

Letters-Spinning a pas-time in nunneries-Confirmation of this from Aubrey

-The tippet coeval with the partlet-Quotation from the "Testamenta Ve-

tusta"-Tippet, probably, the generic word

p. 170-174

"The Doublet."-Etymology of the word-The tunic superseded by the gown

and doublet-Supposed origin of the doublet-The jupon, or gyppon-Descrip-

tion of the knight in Chaucer-Bequest of the gown and doublet united in the

same will-The gown and doublet, probably, worn together-The doublet some-

times worn over the armour-Wardrobe roll of Edward III.-The tunic, like

the doublet, seldom worn alone, but, generally, accompanied by an under one-

Increase of the woollen manufacture at home the instinctive cause of the change

of dress-The tunic succeeded by the gown-The outer doublet, probably, took

the name of the jaque, or jacket-Bequest of David Cicell, Esq., and remarks

on it-The woollen gown, and doublet, the prototypes of the modern coat

and waistcoat-John Halle arrayed in a single doublet-The objection, that the

portrait in the window cannot be that of John Halle from the circumstance, that

it was unlawful for a merchant to wear a doublet of that shortness and colour, fully

answered Quotation from Roger Ascham, showing the inefficiency of sumptuary

laws—The arbitrary law spurned at by the independent John Halle—Comparison

of his dress with that of the " Galante”—The doublet of the latter-His stand-

up collar-The silver Cross on his breast-John Halle not so decorated-The

fingers of the "Galante" ornamented with rings-These despised by John Halle,

the affluent, but homcly burgess-Roger Ascham again quoted on the love of

imitating the higher ranks-Dress of the little boy of the present days represents

the costume of the man in the days of John Halle-Leathern jerkin of the

wood-man still called the doublet

p. 174-186

"The Girdle."-Etymology of the word-The belt now regarded as a synony-
mous word-The one of civil, the other of military origin--The words
now confounded-The girdle of coeval origin, and wear with the tunic-
Girdle worn by the Israelites, and by the High Priests-Custom of taking off
the girdle on entering a house-St. Paul's girdle-The leathern girdle a token
of humility-The girdle of John, the Baptist-The girdle of Elijah-The girdle
of sackcloth as a mark of mourning, and of a rope as a mark of poverty, and
of penance-Metaphorical use of the word girdle-Different mode of wearing
the belt and girdle-The waist called the girdle-sted from being the stay of the
girdle-The girdle worn with a buckle in front-Custom, which originated from
it-Splendour of the girdle amongst the Greeks-Amongst the Romans often
used as a purse-Character of the individual amongst the Romans indicated by
his mode of wearing the girdle-The proverb "ungirt, unblest"-This proverb
not always borne in mind, as the Romans took off the girdle in their
domestic retirement-The Normans slackened it, when they sat down to the
feast-The girdle worn by the Saxons-And by the Normans-Of various
degrees of value-The belts of the Longspees, and the girdles of Lord Robert
Hungerford, and Sir John de Montacute, in Salisbury Cathedral-Quotation
from Spencer-The girdle a bequest of friendship, of affectionate remembrance,
and of religious devotion-Instances of these-The girdle made a conditional

bequest―The bequest of her girdle by Chrystian, the daughter of John Halle

and widow of Sir Thomas Hungerford, to the "Mother Church of Worcester"

-The girdle generally worn by the female-Quotation from the "Paston

Letters"-Remarks on the change of language-Appeal of the Author to pos-

terity-The previous extract from the "Paston Letters" in more modern lan-

guage-Saint Margaret-Request of Margery Paston to her husband-Saint

Margaret invoked by females as their especial guardian-Remarks on the invo-

cation of saints-The "Golden Legend"-The invention of the pocket, which,

probably, originated in the disuse of the girdle-The girdle made to be the

bearer of the anelace, or dagger, and of the gipciere, or wallet-Quotation from

Chaucer in confirmation of this-Etymology of the word gipciere-Quotation

from the "Archæologia” relative to the loop of a gipciere, found at Selborne-

Similar one found at West Lavington-Instances of gipcieres depicted in Strutt's

"Customs," &c.-Gipcieres made the prize of the thief-Mall Cut-purse-Quo-

tations from Grainger, Hudibras, and Swift-Instances adduced from monu-

ments of girdles suspending the anelace, the gipciere, and the rosary-Fresco

painting in the Hungerford Chapel exhibiting the imperfect figure of a man

with a crucifix at his girdle-Bishop Latimer appearing before the Commis-

sioners with a Testament suspended from his girdle-Quotation from Spencer

of a like purport-Usage of Inn-keepers of carrying at their girdles their

notched sticks, or tallies-Quotation to that effect-Custom of females suspend-

ing ornamental knives at the girdle-Reference on that subject to the "Archæ-

ologia"-The looking-glass in the 17th century suspended from the lady's girdle

-This a convenient ambulatory toilet-Reference on the subject to Massinger,

and Ben Jonson-Articles borne beneath the girdle-Quotation from Chaucer-

The Sheaf of Arrows-This the name of the principal inn at Cranborne-

Enumeration of articles proved to be borne by the girdle-The girdle a general

carrier-From thence a symbolical custom-The Company of Girdlers-The

use of the girdle lingering with the Huntsman, and the Groom-The girdle of

John Halle-That of the "Galante"

p. 186-212

"The Anelace."-Etymology of the word not to be found-The word does not
occur in Fosbroke's "Encyclopædia of Antiquities"-Suggestion, that it is
the corruption of hand-lance-Argument against this-The anelace, and dagger,
probably, synonymous-Quotation from Chaucer-Sword and anelace of mutual
wear-Thus to be seen in the effigies of Lord Robert Hungerford, and Sir
John Cheney, in Salisbury Cathedral-The sword and dagger worn in a double
sheath-This testified by Butler in his "Hudibras"-Anelace worn by the
merchant as proved by the brass monumental plate of William Grevil, citizen,
and merchant, of London-John Halle attired with the anclace, and in the act
of swearing fealty-Confirmation from hence, that the portrait is not that of the
Earl of Warwick and Salisbury, who would have been armed cap-a-pee-The
“Galante,” also, bears an anelace—The probability, that the commonalty carried
a knife, or whittle, in lieu of the anelace-The dagger also worn by females-
From the prevalence of the wear of the anelace, or dagger, it, probably, served
the purposes of both knife and fork-Allusive quotation from Butler's Hudibras
-The miller described by Chaucer as wearing "a Shefeld thwitel" in his hose

Chaucer again quoted to show, that the whittle was carried by the lower orders—

Invention, and rarity, of knives-Reasons, which render it probable, that the

anelace and the whittle were used instead of a knife and fork at meals-Knives

used, originally, for carving alone, as seems to appear from reference to ancient

illuminations of tables prepared for the feast-The spcon also borne for personal

use-Spoon of Henry, the Sixth-Forks, the modern introduction of Argu-

ments in proof of this-Confirmed by reference to plates in Strutt's "Manners

and Customs," &c., and to a plate in his “Regal and Ecclesiastical Antiquities

of England"-Anecdote of Earl Goodwin-Fingers in use before forks—Quota-

tion from Chaucer-His fine portrait of "Madame Eglentine"-Censure of

retirement from the active duties of life-Quotation from Ovid-The fork some-

times in disuse even now in the lowest ranks of life-Quotation from Horace

applied to this fact—Its real meaning explained—History of the introduction of

the fork-Amusing quotation from the "Crudities" of Tom Coryat-Renewed

reference to Butler's "Hudibras"--Necessity of hastening on with this

work

p. 212-226

"The Hose."-Etymology of the word-The appellative of hose given to dif-
ferent articles of dress by the Anglo-Saxons and Normans-Anecdote of William
Rufus, as related by Strutt-as related by William of Malmesbury, and—as
related by Robert of Gloucester-Quotation from Chaucer describing the "rede
hosen" of the "Wif of Bathe"-Stockings called hose in the times of the
Saxons-And in the much later days of Henry, the Eighth-Quotation in proof
of this from the privy-purse accounts of the Lestranges-Robert, Duke of
Normandy, surnamed "Curthose" from his preference of the stockings, or
short hose, to that of the chausses, or long hose-The seller of stockings, or
short hose, called hosier—“ Knytt” hose introduced in the reign of Henry, the
Eighth-Silk "knytt" hose in that of Elizabeth-Extract from Howe, the
continuator of Stowe's "Annales," describing the introduction of silk, and
worsted, stockings-Silk hose introduced in the year 1560-Worsted hose
about the year 1530-Previous to that time hose were made of cloth, and, as
may be presumed, manufactured by the tailor; and sold without the interven-
tion of the hosier-The "Company of Haberdashers"-Shorthose, Hosier, and
Cousmaker, names derived from this article of dress-Worsted manufacture
known previously to the time of Henry, the Eighth-From whence so called-
The subject of the long hose, or chausses, resumed, as being more particularly
under consideration-Introduction of party-coloured dress-Deplored by the
Persone (Parson) in his tale in Chaucer-John of Gaunt in the Cotton MSS.
depicted in a dress of the party colours of the House of Lancaster-Example
of party-coloured hose from an illuminated MS. in the library of C. C. Coll.,
Cambridge-Other instances-Quotation from Chaucer describing the "Mar-
chant" as "in mottelee”—John Halle thus arrayed in red and yellow hose—
The "Galante" dressed in long hose, but, as the original painting has been
long destroyed, it is unknown, whether they were party-coloured-The lower
orders in the middle ages, probably, superseded the use of the girdle by a slit
pocket in the hose-Quotation from Chaucer to that effect-And also from
Butler-In later ages motley adopted as the dress of the domestic fool in the

establishments of the Great-Quotation from Shakspeare-Motley now made

the dress of the convicted rogue-probability of its never becoming gentleman's

wear again

p. 226-239

"The Shoes."-Etymology of the word-Various species of-Probably the last

article of dress, which was invented-The peculiar kind of covering for the feet

influenced by the climate-Shoe and boot first made of the undried skins of

beasts-This the opinion of Benedick Baudoin, a learned French shoemaker-

Controverted by M. Nilant-Observations of the Author-Quotation from Birt-

Wear of the sandal by the Israelites-Description of the sandal-Called by the

Romans solea-The sandal translated by shoe in the Old and New Testaments

-The Jews and Turks take off the coverings of their feet in the entrance of

their places of worship-Remarks on a symbol of Pythagoras-Quotation from

Callimachus-Various symbolic uses of the shoe in the Old and New Testa-

ments-Fastening of the sandal called shoe-latchet-Quotations to this effect

from the Old and New Testaments-Generic words in the Greek, and Latin,

language for the shoe-Derivation of these words-Quotation from Alexander

ab Alexandro-Description of the different species of shoe-Concluding passage

of the foregoing quotation translated-Its assertion confirmed by Plutarch-

Remarks of the Author-The iron shoe, and singular death of Empedocles-

Derivation of his name-His conduct destructive of his honourable appellative

-Those, amongst the Romans, who had served the office of ædile entitled to

wear the red shoe-The shoes of the Roman Senators-Different species of shoe

amongst the Romans-Superstition of the Romans as to the wear of the shoe-

Extract from Sir S. M. Meyrick's "Costume," &c., with the description of the

shoes of a Belgic Briton-Shoes of the Gauls-And of the Saxons-Shoes of

Charlemagne-Of his son and grandson-Those of the Anglo-Saxon ladies, of

various colours-Interesting accounts of an ancient sandal described in "Do-

mestic Life in England," and of a curious pair of shoes in the 14th Vol. of the

"Archæologia"-Reasons of the Author for assigning the latter to the Anglo-

Saxon Period-Variation in the form of the Anglo-Danish shoe-Bandages

used around the leg by the Saxons and Danes-No change in the shoe, proba-

bly, introduced by Edward, the Confessor

p. 239-259

Short boots introduced in the close of the reign of William, the First-Mate-
rials of which they were made--Robert, son of William, the First, styled "Short-
Boots"-Observations as to the origin of the appellation-Changes in the fashion
of the shoe in the reign of William, the Second-Malmesbury deprecates the dis-
soluteness of the age-Origin assigned by Ordericus Vitalis to the long pointed
shoe-Robert, the Horned-Derivation of the word, Cordwainer, and remarks on
it-Reign of John-Changes then made in the shoe-Short boots adorned with
fretwork, then worn by the ladies-The boot and the shoe in the reign of Henry,
the Third, highly decorated-Splendid boots of this monarch-Embroidered
shoes of Edward, the Third, and of William, of Hatfield-Richard, the Second
-Quotations in proof of the passion for finery, and splendour of dress in this
reign-The toe of the shoe fastened by a chain to the knee-This fact doubted
by Strutt, who is shown to be at variance with himself-The usage not doubted