formerly abounded. It was a neceffary precaution, to prevent the friends of the deceased from being fhocked by the horrid fight of their carcafes mangled by these rapacious animals.

I paffed Cors y Gedol, the ancient family feat of the Vaughans, but now the property of fir Thomas Moftyn, bart., and continuing my journey by Llanaber, foon afterwards arrived at

BARMOUTH.

This town is fituated in one of the most unpleafant places that could have been chosen for it, near the conflux of the river Maw, or Mawddach *. Some of the houses are built among the fand at the bottom, and others, at different heights, up the fide of a huge rock, which entirely shelters the place on the east. The fituations of the latter are fo fingular, that it is really curious for a stranger to wind up along the narrow paths among the houses, where, on one fide, he may, if he please, enter the door of a dwelling, or, on the other, look down the chimney of the neighbour in front. The inhabitants might almost cure their bacon in fome parts of this town, by the fimple procefs of hanging it out of their windows. The houses at the foot of the rock are nearly choaked up with fand, which fills every

* From this river the town is fometimes called Aber Maw, The Conflux of the Maw. This was shortened into 'Bermaw, and corrupted to Barmouth.

paffage, and is blown into every window that is for a moment left open. In rainy weather this fand, on the contrary, renders the place very dirty and unpleafant. The buildings are exceedingly irregular, and in most instances very bad. Notwithstanding all thefe disadvantages, Barmouth is frequented during the summer season by many genteel families from Wales, and the weft of England, as a fea-bathing place. Its origin, as the refort of invalids, has been attributed to perfons frequenting the banks of this part of the river for the fake of the fcurvygrafs, which grows there in abundance *.

The company muft neceffarily find it a moft uncomfortable place, for the inn (the Corfygedol arms) is at times almoft buried in fand, and no person can poffibly walk many yards without having it over his fhoes. Were it not for the civility and friendly attention of Mrs. Lewis, Barmouth would fail in its principal attraction.-I was beyond measure furprized, on being introduced into the dining-room, to find, in this fecluded corner of the kingdom, upwards of thirty perfons, moft of them of fortune and fashion. I found also, on inquiry, that this was by no means all the company at that time in the town; another large and good building, which Mrs. Lewis had in her own hands as a lodginghouse, being alfo quite full. To be thus fuddenly, introduced, as it were, into the world, after my

* Sketch of the Hiftory of Merionethfhire, by Mr. Robert Vaughan of Hengwrt. Camb. Reg. i. 190.

folitary

folitary rambles among the wilds of the country, was a very grateful incident; and I enjoyed the general cheerfulness and affability that prevailed, perhaps the more from its being entirely unexpected.

The lodging-houses in the town, are many of them dirty and miferable places.-There are on the fands three bathing machines, but these are altogether appropriated to the use of the ladies, the gentlemen bathing on the open coaft.-The amusements feem to confift principally in going out in parties on the water, and in lounging on the beach or the fands.—The beach is one of the most delightful walks I ever beheld. The wide river Mawddach winds amongst the mountains, forming many, and elegant promontories. These rife to great heights on each fide, fome clad with wood, and others exhibiting their naked rocks, fcantily covered with the purple heath. The fummit of the lofty Cader Idris is feen to rife high above the other mountains, in the back ground. Had the town been built here, scarcely half a mile from its prefent fituation, instead of one of the most unpleasant, it might have been rendered one of the most agreeable retirements in the kingdom.

Barmouth is the port of Merionethfhire; but it is not fo much frequented as it ought to be, on account of the inhabitants (who do not attempt commerce on a large fcale), vending their manufactures through the means of factors, who thus feize many of the advantages which the natives

might enjoy. Mr. Pennant, however, informs us, that prior to the year 1781, flannels to the value of 40,000l., and stockings to the value of 10,000l., had been exported from hence in the courfe of a year. The number of fhips at present belonging to the port is about a hundred: and the population of the place is estimated at fifteen hundred.

(27)

CHAP. IV.

BARMOUTH TO DOLGELLE.

The River Mawddach.-Beautiful Scenery-Dolgelle.---Whimfical Defcription of Dolgelle. -Fuller's Enigmatical Defcription.Trade.-Inn.- Fortified in the Reign of Charles I.—Account of Places worth visiting in the Neighbourhood of Dolgelle.

I HAD already been highly gratified in my ramble. along the beach for about a mile and a half from Barmouth; and, in my walk to Dolgelle, I retraced my steps with additional pleasure. The Mawddach, ufually called Avon Vawr, The Great River, forms in this place a wide arm of the fea. It was now high water, and from the whole bed of the river being filled, the various fcenes that prefented themfelves for fome miles were truly picturefque. The two first miles, at the end of which I was compelled to leave the bank of the river, and proceed along the road, were, however, more interesting than any other part of the journey. In the composition of the views, fcarcely any thing appeared wanting: there was every requifite of a fine landscape, mountain and vale, wood, water, meadows, and rocks, arranged in beautiful order. The numerous heaps of peat fpread along the green bottom, were the

only