2

On the evening that I arrived at Harlech, the atmosphere was fo perfectly clear, that I could very plainly distinguish the peaked fummit of Snowdon, elevated high above all the other mountains. The promontory of Llŷn was vifible in almost every part; Criccieth castle feemed fcarcely a mile distant; and the fine, though dangerous bay of Cardigan, lay entirely before me,

HISTORY OF HARLECH CASTLE,

The ancient name of this fortrefs was Twr Bron wen, Bronwen's Tower; fo called from Bronwen, the white necked, fifter to Bren ap Llyr, duke of Cornwall, and afterwards king of Britain. She lived in the third century, and was the wife of Matholwch, an Irishman. Her husband one day, unfortunately, ftruck her a violent blow in the face, and fhe refented the outrage by inciting an infurrection among the people, and causing a civil war. This blow is called, in the ancient Triads, one of the three evil blows of Britain; two others, of a nature nearly fimilar, being there faid to have produced fimilar commotions. Bronwen is fuppofed by some to have refided here; and the highest turret of the prefent caftle, though for what reafon I know not, fince this building was altogether founded many centuries after her time, goes yet by the name of Bronwen's

tower.

In the eleventh century this place took the name of Caer Collwyn, Collwyn's Fort, from Collwyn ap

Tangno,

Tangno, lord of Eivonedd and Ardudwy, and one of the fifteen tribes of North Wales, who repaired the ancient castle, and took it for his own refidence *. -The present name of Harlech is probably derived from the British words hardd, beautiful, and llech, a rock, indicating its fituation.

According to fome of the ancient British hif torians, Harlech castle was originally built, about the year 350, by Maelgwn Gwynedd, prince of North Wales; and it is generally believed that Edward I. founded the present fortress on the ruins of the old caftle; fome parts of which are yet distinguishable from the more modern work of that monarch.

The first constable, appointed in 1283 by Edward, was allowed a falary of a hundred pounds per annum. This falary appears to have been afterwards reduced, for even when the fame perfon held the double office of conftable of the caftle and captain of the town, he usually received only fifty pounds per annum; and when he had not the captainship of the town, he was paid but twenty-fix pounds, thirteen fhillings, and four-pence. Even fo lately as in the forty-fourth year of Elizabeth, the conftable received but fifty pounds per annum. The garrifon confifted of twenty-four foldiers t.

*It is fometimes, though improperly, called, Caer Colun See Camb. Reg. i. 148.

+ Cotton MSS. in the British Museum; Vitellius, C. i.

In the year 1404, this caftle, along with that of Aberystwyth in Cardiganfhire, was feized by the great, but ambitious Owen Glyndwr, during his rebellion against Henry IV. They were both retaken about four years afterwards, by an army which the king had dispatched into Wales against

that turbulent chieftain *.

Margaret of Anjou, the fpirited queen of Henry VI., after the king's defeat at Northampton in 1456, fled from Coventry, and, narrowly efcaping the hands of lord Stanley, who discovered and seized her jewels and baggage, found in this fortrefs an afylum from her enemies. She refided here but a little while, when fhe proceeded into Scotland, where collecting her friends, fhe marched towards Wakefield. At the latter place she made an attack on the army of her enemy, the duke of York, which fhe routed; and the further fucceeded in deftroying the leader.

Soon after Edward IV. attained the English throne, he found means to make himself master of every part of the kingdom, except this caftle and two or three others in Northumberland. These he did not think it neceffary immediately to attack, in the expectation, probably, that when their governors faw the whole country continue in quiet poffeffion, they would of their own accord fubmit. The idea, however, proved groundlefs, for David ap Ivan

*Carte, ii. 661. and 669.

ap

Einion,

Einion, a staunch friend to the house of Lancaster, held out in this castle nine years after the coronation of Edward, till 1468. The king finding him ftill determined to refift, was at length compelled to fend an army against him under the command of William Herbert, earl of Pembroke. The men with incredible difficulty marched over the heart of the British Alps to the attack. On being fummoned to furrender, David returned for anfwer: "Some years ago I held out a castle in France against its befiegers fo long, that all the old women in Wales talked of me: inform your commander that I will defend this Welsh caftle till all the old women of France fhall hear of it." The befieging army found the place altogether impregnable, except by famine, and fir Richard Herbert (brother to the earl), who had commanded during the fiege, was at last obliged to compound for the surrender, by promifing the heroic Welfhman that he would intercede with the king for his life. It was therefore given up, and with it upwards of fifty gentlemen of rank, who had adhered to the Lancastrian cause. These were all committed clofe prifoners to the tower; and when David was brought to the king, fir Richard intreated that he might receive an unconditioned pardon, on the ground that it had been in his power, if he had chofen it, to retain the castle confiderably longer, even in fpite of all the efforts of the English army. The king refused. "Then, Sire (faid fir Richard), you may, if you please,

take

take my life instead of that of the Welsh captain: if you do not, I will moft affuredly replace David in his caftle, and your highnefs may fend whom you please to take him out again." The king knew too well the value of a hero like fir Richard, to carry his denial any further*. David ap Ivan was pardoned, but his friend received no other reward for this perilous fervice t.

In the civil wars at the conclufion of the reign of Charles I., Harlech castle was the last in North Wales that held out for the king, being surrendered in March 1647, to general Mytton, on honourable terms. At this time Mr. William Owen was the governor, and the garrifon confifted but of twentyeight men .

The town of Harlech was made a free borough by Edward I., who confirmed to it several grants of lands and other emoluments.

MEPHITIC VAPOUR.

In the winter of 1694, this neighbourhood was much alarmed by a kind of fiery exhalation, which came from a fandy and marshy tract of land, called

Among other acts of heroifm in fir Richard Herbert, it is well known that he twice cleared his way in fafety, through a great Norman army, with only a battle-ax in his hand.

Wynne, 398. Stowe, 421. Carte, ii. 775. Life of lord Herbert, 8.

Whitelock, 243.

Morfa