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Rime of Sir Topas'. The princess is thus represented, in her closet adorned with painted glass, listening to the squire's complaint".
That ladi herde hys mournyng alle,
at hir closet.
She saw where that sqyure lay, &c.
because it delineates in lively colours the fashionable diversions and usages of antient times. The king of Hungary endeavours to comfort his daughter with these promises, after she had fallen
in the absence of any evidence for its dam capella pulchra et decenti facienda more recent composition—that this iden- ad caput Orioli camere regis in castro tical romance was intended to be ex- Herefordie, de longitudine xx. pedum." posed and ridiculed by the poet. At This Oriel was at the end of the king's all events, Copland's editions with their chamber, from which the new chapel modern phraseology are no standard for was to begin. Again, in the castle of determining the age of any composition; Kenilworth. Rot. Pip. an. 19. Hen. iii. and until some better arguments can be (A.D. 1235.]
« Et in uno magno adduced than those already noticed, the Oriollo pulchro et competenti, ante osingenious supposition of Dr. Percy- tium magne camere regis in castro de for by him it was communicated to War- Kenilworth faciendo, vil. xvis. ivd. per ton-may be permitted to remain in Brev. regis." full force.-EDIT.]
[The etymologists have been puzzled * See observations on the Fairy Queen, to find the derivation of an oriel-window. i. S iv. p. 139.
A learned correspondent suggests, that Sign. a. iii.
OKIEL is Hebrew for Lux mea, or Do* An Oriel seems to have been a re- minus illuminatio mea.-Additions.] cess in a chamber, or hall, formed by the * closed, sbut. In P. Plowman, of projection of a spacious bow-window a blind man, “unsparryd his eine."i. e. from top to bottom. Rot. Pip. an. 18. opened his eyes. Hen, iii. [A. D. 1234.] “ Et in qua
into a deep and incurable melancholy from the supposed loss of her paramour.
“ To morow ye shall yn huntyng fare;
Well dyaperd y with lyllyes newe: Y embroidered, diversified. Chaucer ticiple. Sattin of Bruges, another city a bow, Rom. R. v. 934.
of Flanders, often occurs in inventories And it was painted wel and thwitten of monastic vestments, in the reign of And ore all diapred, and written, &c.
Henry the eighth: and the cities of
Arras and Tours are celebrated for their Thwitten is twisted, wreathed. The fol- tapestry in Spenser. All these cities, lowing instance from Chaucer is more
and others in their neighbourhood, beto our purpose. Knight's Tale, v. 2160.
came famous for this sort of workmanUpon a stede bay, trappid in stele, ship before 1200. The Armator of Coverid with cloth of gold diaprid wele. Edward the third, who finishes all the This term, which is partly heraldic, oc- costly apparatus for the shows above curs in the Provisor's rolls of the Great- mentioned, consisting, among other wardrobe, containing deliveries for fur. things, of a variety of the most sumptuous nishing rich habiliments, at tilts and and ornamented embroideries on velvet, tournaments, and other ceremonies. sattin, tissue, &c. is John of Cologn. “Et ad faciendum tria harnesia pro Unless it be Colonia in Italy. Rotul. Rege, quorum duo de velvetto albo ope- prædict. memb. viii. memb. xiii. “Quæ rato cum garteriis de blu et diasprez per omnia ordinata fuerunt per garderobatotam campedinem cum wodehouses. rium competentem, de precepto ipsius Ex comp. J. Coke clerici, Provisor. Regis: et facta et parata per manus Magn. Garderob. ab ann. xxi. Edw. iii. Johīs de Colonia, Armatoris ipsius do de 23 membranis. ad ann. xxiii. memb.x. mini nostri Regis.' Johannes de I believe it properly signifies embroi. Strawesburgh (Strasburgh) is mentiondering on a rich ground, as tissue, cloth ed as broudator regis, i. c. of Richard of gold, &c. This is confirmed by the second, in Anstis, Ord. Gart. i. 55. Peacham. “ DIAPERING is a term in See also ii. 42.
I will add a passage drawing.--It chiefly serveth to coun from Chaucer's Wife of Bath, v. 450. terfeit cloth of gold, silver,, damask, Of cloth-making she had such a haunt, brancht velvet, camblet, &c." Compl. Gent. p. 345. Anderson, in his His- She passid them of Ipre and of Gaunt. tory of Commerce, conjectures, that “ Cloth of Gaunt," i. e. Ghent, is inenDiaper, a species of printed linen, took tioned in the Romaunt of the Rose, its name from the city of Ypres in v. 574. Bruges was the chief mart for Flanders, where it was first made, being Italian commodities, about the thiroriginally called d'ipre. But that city teenth century. In the year 1318, five and others in Flanders were no less Venetian galeasses, laden with Indian famous for rich manufactures of stuff'; goods, arrived at this city in order to and the word in question has better pre- dispose of their cargoes at the fair. L. tensions to such a derivation. Thus Guic. Descr. di Paesi Bass. p. 174. Silk rich cloth embroidered with raised work manufactures were introduced from the we called d’ipre, and from thence diaper; East into Italy, before 1150. Gianon. and to do this, or any work like it, was Hist. Nap). xi. 7. The crusades much called to diaper, from whence the par. improved the commerce of the Italian
Your pomelles shalbe ended with golde,
Pyment also, and garnarde; states with the East in this article, and The knight and she to chamber went:produced new artificers of their own. With pimeate, and with spisery, But to recur to the subject of this note. When they had dronken the wyne. Diaper occurs among the rich silks and See Carpentier, Suppl. Gloss. Lat. Du stuffs in the French Roman de la Rose, Cange, tom. iii. p. 842. So Chaucer, where it seems to signify Damask. Leg. Dido, v. 185. V. 21867.
The spicis parted, and the wine agon, Samites, dyaprés, camelots.
Unto his channber he is lad anon. I find it likewise in the Roman d'Aler- Froissart says, among the delights of his andre, written about 1200. MSS. Bodl. youth, that he was happy to taste, fol. i. b. col. 2.
Au couchier, pour mieulx dormir, Dyapres d'Antioch, samis de Romanie.
Especes, clairet, et rocelle. Here is also a proof that the Asiatic Mem. Lit. x. 665. Not. 4to. Lidgate stuffs were at that time famous: and
of Tideus and Polimite in the palace of probably Romanie is Romania. The
Adrastus at Thebes. Stor. Theb. p. 634. word often occurs in old accounts of
ed. Chauc. 1687. rich ecclesiastical vestments. Du Cange derives this word from the Italian dias -gan anon repaire prro, a jasper, a precious stone which To her lodging in a ful stately toure; shifts its colours. V. DIASPRUS. In Assigned to hem by the herbeiour. Dugdale's Monasticon we have diaspe- And aftir spicis plenty and the wine ratus, diapered. “Sandalia cum caligis In cuppis grete wrought of gold fulfyne, de rubeo sameto Diasperato breudata Without tarrying to bedde straightes cum imaginibus regum.” tom. iii. 314. they gone, &c. and 321.
Chaucer has it again, Squ. T. v. 311. ? Sometimes written pimeate. In the p. 62. Urr. and Mill. T. v. 270. p. 26. romance of Syr Bevys, a knight just Hesent her piment, methe, and spicid ale. going to repose takes the usual draught of pimeate; which mixed with spices is Some orders of monks are enjoined to what the French romances call vin du abstain from drinking pigmentum, or coucher, and for which an officer, called piment. Yet it was a common refection Esficier, was appointed in the old royal in the monasteries. It is a drink made household of France. Signat. m. iii. of wine, honey, and spices. “ Thei ne
Wine of Greke, and muscadell,
could not medell the gefte of Bacchus the abbess shall present him with a peato the clere honie; that is to say, they cock, and a cup of piment. Carpentier, could not make ne piment ne clarre." ubi supr. vol. iii. p. 277. Chaucer's Boeth. p. 371. a. Urr. Clarre * Chaucer says of the Frankelein, is clarified wine. In French Clarey. Prol. p. 4. Urr. v. 345. Perhaps the same as piment, or hypo
Withoutin bake mete never was his crass. See Mem. Lit. viü. p. 674. 4to.
With birds in bread ybake, sur l'anc. Chevalier. i. p. 19. 48. I
The tele the duck and drake. must add, that σιγμενταριος, or τιμεTapos, signified an Apothecary among b In a manuscript of Froissart full of the middle and lower Greeks. See Du paintings and illuminations, there is a Cange, Gl. Gr. in voc. i. 1167. and ü. representation of the grand entrance of Append. Etymolog. Vocab. Ling. Gall. queen Isabel of England into Paris, in p. 301. col. 1. In the register of the bi- the year 1324. She is attended by a shop of Nivernois, under the year 1287, greyhound who has a flag, powdered it is covenanted, that whenever the bishop with fleurs de lys, bound to his neck. shall celebrate mass in S. Mary's abbey, Montf. Monum. Fr. ii. p. 234.
Threscore of copes of damask bryght
cloath, or linen, of Rennes, a city in Tela de Reynes is mentioned among Britany. Chaucer, Dr. v. 255. habits delivered to knights of the garter,
And many a pilowe, and every bere 2 Rich. ii. Anstis, Ord. Gart. i. 55.