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Rime of Sir Topas'. The princess is thus represented, in her closet adorned with painted glass, listening to the squire's complaint".

That ladi herde hys mournyng alle,
Ryght undir the chambre walle:
In her oryallw there she was,
Closyd well with royall glas,
Fulfyllyd yt was with ymagery,
Every windowe by and by
On eche syde had ther a gynne,
Sperdex with manie a dyvers pynne.
Anone that ladie fayre and fre
Undyd a pynne of yvere,
And wyd the wyndowes she open set,
The sunne shonne

yn

at hir closet.
In that arbre fayre and gaye

She saw where that sqyure lay, &c.
I am persuaded to transcribe the following passage,

because it delineates in lively colours the fashionable diversions and usages of antient times. The king of Hungary endeavours to comfort his daughter with these promises, after she had fallen

in the absence of any evidence for its dam capella pulchra et decenti facienda more recent composition—that this iden- ad caput Orioli camere regis in castro tical romance was intended to be ex- Herefordie, de longitudine xx. pedum." posed and ridiculed by the poet. At This Oriel was at the end of the king's all events, Copland's editions with their chamber, from which the new chapel modern phraseology are no standard for was to begin. Again, in the castle of determining the age of any composition; Kenilworth. Rot. Pip. an. 19. Hen. iii. and until some better arguments can be (A.D. 1235.]

« Et in uno magno adduced than those already noticed, the Oriollo pulchro et competenti, ante osingenious supposition of Dr. Percy- tium magne camere regis in castro de for by him it was communicated to War- Kenilworth faciendo, vil. xvis. ivd. per ton-may be permitted to remain in Brev. regis." full force.-EDIT.]

[The etymologists have been puzzled * See observations on the Fairy Queen, to find the derivation of an oriel-window. i. S iv. p. 139.

A learned correspondent suggests, that Sign. a. iii.

OKIEL is Hebrew for Lux mea, or Do* An Oriel seems to have been a re- minus illuminatio mea.-Additions.] cess in a chamber, or hall, formed by the * closed, sbut. In P. Plowman, of projection of a spacious bow-window a blind man, unsparryd his eine."i. e. from top to bottom. Rot. Pip. an. 18. opened his eyes. Hen, iii. [A. D. 1234.] “ Et in qua

into a deep and incurable melancholy from the supposed loss of her paramour.

“ To morow ye shall yn huntyng fare;
And yede, my doughter, yn a chare,
Yt shal be coverd wyth velvette reede
And clothes of fyne golde al about your heede,
With damaske whyte and asure blewe

Well dyaperd y with lyllyes newe: Y embroidered, diversified. Chaucer ticiple. Sattin of Bruges, another city a bow, Rom. R. v. 934.

of Flanders, often occurs in inventories And it was painted wel and thwitten of monastic vestments, in the reign of And ore all diapred, and written, &c.

Henry the eighth: and the cities of

Arras and Tours are celebrated for their Thwitten is twisted, wreathed. The fol- tapestry in Spenser. All these cities, lowing instance from Chaucer is more

and others in their neighbourhood, beto our purpose. Knight's Tale, v. 2160.

came famous for this sort of workmanUpon a stede bay, trappid in stele, ship before 1200. The Armator of Coverid with cloth of gold diaprid wele. Edward the third, who finishes all the This term, which is partly heraldic, oc- costly apparatus for the shows above curs in the Provisor's rolls of the Great- mentioned, consisting, among other wardrobe, containing deliveries for fur. things, of a variety of the most sumptuous nishing rich habiliments, at tilts and and ornamented embroideries on velvet, tournaments, and other ceremonies. sattin, tissue, &c. is John of Cologn. “Et ad faciendum tria harnesia pro Unless it be Colonia in Italy. Rotul. Rege, quorum duo de velvetto albo ope- prædict. memb. viii. memb. xiii. “Quæ rato cum garteriis de blu et diasprez per omnia ordinata fuerunt per garderobatotam campedinem cum wodehouses. rium competentem, de precepto ipsius Ex comp. J. Coke clerici, Provisor. Regis: et facta et parata per manus Magn. Garderob. ab ann. xxi. Edw. iii. Johīs de Colonia, Armatoris ipsius do de 23 membranis. ad ann. xxiii. memb.x. mini nostri Regis.' Johannes de I believe it properly signifies embroi. Strawesburgh (Strasburgh) is mentiondering on a rich ground, as tissue, cloth ed as broudator regis, i. c. of Richard of gold, &c. This is confirmed by the second, in Anstis, Ord. Gart. i. 55. Peacham. “ DIAPERING is a term in See also ii. 42.

I will add a passage drawing.--It chiefly serveth to coun from Chaucer's Wife of Bath, v. 450. terfeit cloth of gold, silver,, damask, Of cloth-making she had such a haunt, brancht velvet, camblet, &c." Compl. Gent. p. 345. Anderson, in his His- She passid them of Ipre and of Gaunt. tory of Commerce, conjectures, that “ Cloth of Gaunt," i. e. Ghent, is inenDiaper, a species of printed linen, took tioned in the Romaunt of the Rose, its name from the city of Ypres in v. 574. Bruges was the chief mart for Flanders, where it was first made, being Italian commodities, about the thiroriginally called d'ipre. But that city teenth century. In the year 1318, five and others in Flanders were no less Venetian galeasses, laden with Indian famous for rich manufactures of stuff'; goods, arrived at this city in order to and the word in question has better pre- dispose of their cargoes at the fair. L. tensions to such a derivation. Thus Guic. Descr. di Paesi Bass. p. 174. Silk rich cloth embroidered with raised work manufactures were introduced from the we called d’ipre, and from thence diaper; East into Italy, before 1150. Gianon. and to do this, or any work like it, was Hist. Nap). xi. 7. The crusades much called to diaper, from whence the par. improved the commerce of the Italian

Your pomelles shalbe ended with golde,
Your chaynes enameled many a folde.
Your mantell of ryche degre
Purple palle and armyne fre.
Jennets of Spayne that ben so wyght
Trapped to the ground with velvet bryght.
Ye shall have harpe, sautry, and songe,
And other myrthes you amonge.
Ye shal have rumney, and malespine,
Both ypocrasse and vernage wyne;
Mountrese and wyne of Greke,
Both algrade and despice eke;
Antioche and bastarde,

Pyment also, and garnarde; states with the East in this article, and The knight and she to chamber went:produced new artificers of their own. With pimeate, and with spisery, But to recur to the subject of this note. When they had dronken the wyne. Diaper occurs among the rich silks and See Carpentier, Suppl. Gloss. Lat. Du stuffs in the French Roman de la Rose, Cange, tom. iii. p. 842. So Chaucer, where it seems to signify Damask. Leg. Dido, v. 185. V. 21867.

The spicis parted, and the wine agon, Samites, dyaprés, camelots.

Unto his channber he is lad anon. I find it likewise in the Roman d'Aler- Froissart says, among the delights of his andre, written about 1200. MSS. Bodl. youth, that he was happy to taste, fol. i. b. col. 2.

Au couchier, pour mieulx dormir, Dyapres d'Antioch, samis de Romanie.

Especes, clairet, et rocelle. Here is also a proof that the Asiatic Mem. Lit. x. 665. Not. 4to. Lidgate stuffs were at that time famous: and

of Tideus and Polimite in the palace of probably Romanie is Romania. The

Adrastus at Thebes. Stor. Theb. p. 634. word often occurs in old accounts of

ed. Chauc. 1687. rich ecclesiastical vestments. Du Cange derives this word from the Italian dias -gan anon repaire prro, a jasper, a precious stone which To her lodging in a ful stately toure; shifts its colours. V. DIASPRUS. In Assigned to hem by the herbeiour. Dugdale's Monasticon we have diaspe- And aftir spicis plenty and the wine ratus, diapered. “Sandalia cum caligis In cuppis grete wrought of gold fulfyne, de rubeo sameto Diasperato breudata Without tarrying to bedde straightes cum imaginibus regum.” tom. iii. 314. they gone, &c. and 321.

Chaucer has it again, Squ. T. v. 311. ? Sometimes written pimeate. In the p. 62. Urr. and Mill. T. v. 270. p. 26. romance of Syr Bevys, a knight just Hesent her piment, methe, and spicid ale. going to repose takes the usual draught of pimeate; which mixed with spices is Some orders of monks are enjoined to what the French romances call vin du abstain from drinking pigmentum, or coucher, and for which an officer, called piment. Yet it was a common refection Esficier, was appointed in the old royal in the monasteries. It is a drink made household of France. Signat. m. iii. of wine, honey, and spices. “ Thei ne

:

Wine of Greke, and muscadell,
Both clare, pyment, and rochell,
The reed your stomake to defye
And pottes of osey sett you bye.
You shall have venyson ybake“,
The best wylde fowle that may be take:
A lese of harehound with you to streke,
And hart, and hynde, and other lyke,
Ye shalbe set at such a tryst
That hart and hynde shall come to you fyst.
Your desease to dryve ye fro,
To here the bugles there yblowe.
Homward thus shall ye ryde,
On haukyng by the ryvers syde,
With goshauke and with gentil fawcon,
With buglehorn and merlyon.
When

you
come home

your
menie

amonge,
Ye shall have revell, daunces, and songe:
Lytle chyldren, great and smale,
Shall syng as doth the nyghtyngale,
Than shal ye go to your evensong,
With tenours and trebles among,

could not medell the gefte of Bacchus the abbess shall present him with a peato the clere honie; that is to say, they cock, and a cup of piment. Carpentier, could not make ne piment ne clarre." ubi supr. vol. iii. p. 277. Chaucer's Boeth. p. 371. a. Urr. Clarre * Chaucer says of the Frankelein, is clarified wine. In French Clarey. Prol. p. 4. Urr. v. 345. Perhaps the same as piment, or hypo

Withoutin bake mete never was his crass. See Mem. Lit. viü. p. 674. 4to.

house.
Compare Chauc. Sh. T. v. 2579. Urr.
Du Cange, Gloss. Lat. v. PIGMENTUM. And in this poem, Signat. B. iii.
Species. and Suppl. Carp. and Mem.

With birds in bread ybake, sur l'anc. Chevalier. i. p. 19. 48. I

The tele the duck and drake. must add, that σιγμενταριος, or τιμεTapos, signified an Apothecary among b In a manuscript of Froissart full of the middle and lower Greeks. See Du paintings and illuminations, there is a Cange, Gl. Gr. in voc. i. 1167. and ü. representation of the grand entrance of Append. Etymolog. Vocab. Ling. Gall. queen Isabel of England into Paris, in p. 301. col. 1. In the register of the bi- the year 1324. She is attended by a shop of Nivernois, under the year 1287, greyhound who has a flag, powdered it is covenanted, that whenever the bishop with fleurs de lys, bound to his neck. shall celebrate mass in S. Mary's abbey, Montf. Monum. Fr. ii. p. 234.

Threscore of copes of damask bryght
Full of perles they shalbe pyghte.-
Your sensours shalbe of golde
Endent with asure manie a folde:
Your quere nor organ songe shal want
With countre note and dyscaunt.
The other halfe on orgayns playing,
With yong chyldren ful fayn syngyng.
Than shal ye go to your suppere
And sytte in tentis in gréne arbere,
With clothe of arras pyght to the grounde,
With saphyres set of dyamounde.-
A hundred knyghtes truly tolde
Shall plaie with bowles in alayes colde.
Your disease to dryve awaie,
To se the fisshes yn poles plaie.
To a drawe brydge then shal ye,
Thone halfe of stone, thother of tre,
A barge shal meet you full ryht,
With xxiiii ores ful bryght,
With trompettes and with claryowne,
The fresshe watir to rowe up and downe.
Then shal you, doughter, aske the wyne
Wyth spises that be gode and fyne:
Gentyll pottes, with genger grene,
Wyth dates and deynties you betweene.
Fortie torches brenynge bright
At your brydges to bring you lyght.
Into youre chambre they shall you brynge
Wyth muche myrthe and more lykynge.
Your blankettes shal be of fustyane,
Your shetes shal be of cloths of rayne:

cloath, or linen, of Rennes, a city in Tela de Reynes is mentioned among Britany. Chaucer, Dr. v. 255. habits delivered to knights of the garter,

And many a pilowe, and every bere 2 Rich. ii. Anstis, Ord. Gart. i. 55.
Of clothe of raymes to slepe on softe, (Cloath of Rennes seems to have been
Him tharc ulot nede to turnin ofte. the finest sort of linen. In the old ma-

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