Rime of Sir Topast. The princess is thus represented, in her closet adorned with painted glass, listening to the squire's complaint". That ladi herde hys mournyng alle, Ryght undir the chambre walle: W In her oryall there she was, Closyd well with royall glas, Fulfyllyd yt was with ymagery, On eche syde had ther a gynne, And wyd the wyndowes she open set, She saw where that sqyure lay, &c. I am persuaded to transcribe the following passage, because it delineates in lively colours the fashionable diversions and usages of antient times. The king of Hungary endeavours to comfort his daughter with these promises, after she had fallen in the absence of any evidence for its more recent composition-that this identical romance was intended to be exposed and ridiculed by the poet. At all events, Copland's editions with their modern phraseology are no standard for determining the age of any composition; and until some better arguments can be adduced than those already noticed, the ingenious supposition of Dr. Percyfor by him it was communicated to Warton-may be permitted to remain in full force.-EDIT.] * See observations on the Fairy Queen, i. § iv. p. 139. Sign. a. iii. An Oriel seems to have been a recess in a chamber, or hall, formed by the projection of a spacious bow-window from top to bottom. Rot. Pip. an. 18. Hẹn. iii. [ A. D. 1234] "Et in qua dam capella pulchra et decenti facienda ad caput Orioli camere regis in castro Herefordie, de longitudine xx. pedum." This Oriel was at the end of the king's chamber, from which the new chapel was to begin. Again, in the castle of Kenilworth. Rot. Pip. an. 19. Hen. iii. [A. D. 1235.] "Et in uno magno Oriollo pulchro et competenti, ante ostium magne camere regis in castro de Kenilworth faciendo, vil. xvis. ivd. per Brev. regis." [The etymologists have been puzzled to find the derivation of an oriel-window. A learned correspondent suggests, that ORIEL is Hebrew for Lux mea, or Dominus illuminatio mea.. -ADDITIONS.] * closed, shut. In P. Plowman, of a blind man, "unsparryd his eine.” i. e. opened his eyes. 9 into a deep and incurable melancholy from the supposed loss of her paramour. "To morow ye shall yn huntyng fare; And yede, my doughter, yn a chare, Yt shal be coverd wyth velvette reede And clothes of fyne golde al about your heede, y Well dyaperd with lyllyes newe: y embroidered, diversified. Chaucer a bow, Rom. R. v. 934. And it was painted wel and thwitten And ore all diapred, and written, &c. Thwitten is twisted, wreathed. The following instance from Chaucer is more to our purpose. Knight's Tale, v. 2160. Upon a stede bay, trappid in stele, Coverid with cloth of gold diaprid wele. This term, which is partly heraldic, occurs in the Provisor's rolls of the Greatwardrobe, containing deliveries for furnishing rich habiliments, at tilts and tournaments, and other ceremonies. "Et ad faciendum tria harnesia pro Rege, quorum duo de velvetto albo operato cum garteriis de blu et diasprez per totam campedinem cum wodehouses." Ex comp. J. Coke clerici, Provisor. Magn. Garderob. ab ann. xxi. Edw. iii. de 23 membranis. ad ann. xxiii. memb.x. I believe it properly signifies embroidering on a rich ground, as tissue, cloth of gold, &c. This is confirmed by Peacham. "DIAPERING is a term in drawing. It chiefly serveth to counterfeit cloth of gold, silver, damask, brancht velvet, camblet, &c." Compl. Gent. p. 345. Anderson, in his History of Commerce, conjectures, that Diaper, a species of printed linen, took its name from the city of Ypres in Flanders, where it was first made, being originally called d'ipre. But that city and others in Flanders were no less famous for rich manufactures of stuff; and the word in question has better pretensions to such a derivation. Thus rich cloth embroidered with raised work we called d'ipre, and from thence diaper; and to do this, or any work like it, was called to diaper, from whence the par ticiple. Sattin of Bruges, another city of Flanders, often occurs in inventories of monastic vestments, in the reign of Henry the eighth: and the cities of Arras and Tours are celebrated for their tapestry in Spenser. All these cities, and others in their neighbourhood, became famous for this sort of workmanship before 1200. The Armator of Edward the third, who finishes all the costly apparatus for the shows above mentioned, consisting, among other things, of a variety of the most sumptuous and ornamented embroideries on velvet, sattin, tissue, &c. is John of Cologn. Unless it be Colonia in Italy. Rotul. prædict. memb. viii. memb. xiii. "Quæ omnia ordinata fuerunt per garderobarium competentem, de precepto ipsius Regis: et facta et parata per manus Johis de Colonia, Armatoris ipsius domini nostri Regis." Johannes de Strawesburgh [Strasburgh] is mentioned as broudator regis, i. e. of Richard the second, in Anstis, Ord. Gart. i. 55. See also ii. 42. I will add a passage from Chaucer's Wife of Bath, v. 450. of cloth-making she had such a haunt, She passid them of Ipre and of Gaunt. "Cloth of Gaunt," i. e. Ghent, is mentioned in the Romaunt of the Rose, v. 574. Bruges was the chief mart for Italian commodities, about the thirteenth century. In the year 1318, five Venetian galeasses, laden with Indian goods, arrived at this city in order to dispose of their cargoes at the fair. L. Guic. Descr. di Paesi Bass. p. 174. Silk manufactures were introduced from the East into Italy, before 1150. Gianon. Hist. Napl. xi. 7. The crusades much improved the commerce of the Italian Your pomelles shalbe ended with golde, Purple palle and armyne fre. Jennets of Spayne that ben so wyght Pyment also, and garnarde; states with the East in this article, and produced new artificers of their own. But to recur to the subject of this note. Diaper occurs among the rich silks and stuffs in the French Roman de la Rose, where it seems to signify Damask. v. 21867. Samites, dyaprés, camelots. I find it likewise in the Roman d'Alexandre, written about 1200. MSS. Bodl. fol. i. b. col. 2. Dyapres d'Antioch, samis de Romanie. Here is also a proof that the Asiatic stuffs were at that time famous: and probably Romanie is Romania. The word often occurs in old accounts of rich ecclesiastical vestments. Du Cange derives this word from the Italian dias pro, a jasper, a precious stone which shifts its colours. V. DIASPRUS. In Dugdale's Monasticon we have diasperatus, diapered. "Sandalia cum caligis de rubeo sameto DIASPERATO breudata cum imaginibus regum." tom. iii. 314. and 321. z Sometimes written pimeate. In the romance of Syr Bevys, a knight just going to repose takes the usual draught of pimeate; which mixed with spices is what the French romances call vin du coucher, and for which an officer, called ESPICIER, was appointed in the old royal household of France. Signat. m. iii. The knight and she to chamber went:--- The spicis parted, and the wine agon, Au couchier, pour mieulx dormir, Mem. Lit. x. 665. Not. 4to. Lidgate ed. Chauc. 1687. -gan anon repaire To her lodging in a ful stately toure; Assigned to hem by the herbeiour. And aftir spicis plenty and the wine In cuppis grete wrought of gold ful fyne, Without tarrying to bedde straightes they gone, &c. Chaucer has it again, Squ. T. v. 811. p. 62. Urr. and Mill. T. v. 270. p. 26. He sent her piment, methe, and spicid ale. Some orders of monks are enjoined to abstain from drinking pigmentum, or piment. Yet it was a common refection in the monasteries. It is a drink made of wine, honey, and spices. "Thei ne Wine of Greke, and muscadell, That hart and hynde shall come to you fyst. To here the bugles there yblowe. When you come home your menie amonge, Ye shall have revell, daunces, and songe: could not medell the gefte of Bacchus to the clere honie; that is to say, they could not make ne piment ne clarre.' Chaucer's Boeth. p. 371. a. Urr. Clarre is clarified wine. In French Clarey. Perhaps the same as piment, or hypocrass. See Mem. Lit. viii. p. 674. 4to. Compare Chauc. Sh. T. v. 2579. Urr. Du Cange, Gloss. Lat. v. PIGMENTUM. SPECIES. and Suppl. Carp. and Mem. sur l'anc. Chevalier. i. p. 19. 48. I must add, that σιγμεντάριος, οι πιμένω Tagos, signified an Apothecary among the middle and lower Greeks. See Du Cange, Gl. Gr. in voc. i. 1167. and ii. Append. Etymolog. Vocab. Ling. Gall. p. 301. col. 1. In the register of the bishop of Nivernois, under the year 1287, it is covenanted, that whenever the bishop shall celebrate mass in S. Mary's abbey, the abbess shall present him with a peacock, and a cup of piment. Carpentier, ubi supr. vol. iii. p. 277. Chaucer says of the Frankelein, Prol. p. 4. Urr. v. 345. Withoutin bake mete never was his house. And in this poem, Signat. B. iii. With birds in bread ybake, The tele the duck and drake. b In a manuscript of Froissart full of paintings and illuminations, there is a representation of the grand entrance of queen Isabel of England into Paris, in the year 1324. She is attended by a greyhound who has a flag, powdered with fleurs de lys, bound to his neck. Montf. Monum. Fr. ii. p. 234. с Threscore of copes of damask bryght Shall plaie with bowles in alayes colde. To se the fisshes yn poles plaie. Wyth spises that be gode and fyne: At your brydges to bring you lyght. Your shetes shal be of cloths of rayne: cloath, or linen, of Rennes, a city in Tela de Reynes is mentioned among Britany. Chaucer, Dr. v. 255. And many a pilowe, and every bere |