March, 1879.

Fig. 1

INSTRUCTIONS

HOW TO TAKE THE MEASURES.

The way to take the measures when a Lady wishes to send for a body pattern of the size suited to her is as follows :-First, with an ordinary inch tape, take the exact Chest measure all round the body at the most prominent part of the chest, marked 1 on the diagram, Fig. 1: then take the Waist measure marked 2: then measure the exact Length of Back from the neck to the Waist, marked 3 on the diagram. Write all these measures down, and to ensure accuracy, measure them again, and compare with the writing.

HOW TO

CHANGE THE SIZE OF OUR PATTERNS.

If a Lady possesses a good fitting body pattern, she can easily alter, to her own size, any of "DEVERE'S PARIS MODEL PATTERNS," which are all cut for 34 inches Chest measure, 24 inches Waist measure, and 14 inches Length of Waist. If a lady has not a body pattern of her own size, she can select one from Devere's Series of Patterns, which are cut for Chest measures ranging from 31 to 42; that is to say, from the most petite lady, to the tall lady of fine figure. Any size will be sent post free, for 6 stamps. If however the lady is only a size larger or smaller than 34 Chest, viz:has a Chest measure of 36 or 33, then she can alter the size of the pattern when cutting out, by the instructions given in the follow4ing diagrams:

Fig. 2

Fig. 3

THE WAY TO

TO ENLARGE A PATTERN FROM 34 INCHES CHEST MEASURE TO 36 INCHES. FIG. 2.

Add to the front edge of an inch, the same at the seam under the arm, and down the middle of back; these additions are indicated by the shaded parts. At the bottom of armhole, hollow out of an inch, indicated by the black parts.

TO DECREASE A PATTERN FROM 34 INCHES CHEST MEASURE TO 33 INCHES. FIG. 3.

Narrow the front edge of an inch, and take off the same under the arm and at the middle of back, as shown by the black parts of the pattern. At the bottom of armhole, add the of an inch indicated by the shaded portions.

CUT OUT.

The best plan is to lay all the pieces composing the pattern on the material at the same time, so as to be able to judge of the most economical way of cutting out. The larger pieces should be placed on first, and the smaller pieces at the sides of them. The trimmings (if any) must not be forgotten.

Fig. 4. The direction in which the various pieces are laid on the material has more to do with the fit of a pattern than is generally supposed. In all close-fitting garments, the side pieces and the backs should all have the waist line in an exact line with the straight weft or woof thread of the material: this will bring the side pieces and the backs on the right way of the stuff, and the side pieces will not draw or crease as they would do if they were cut in the least degree on the biais. The fronts must be laid lengthwise on the material and be perfectly straight. It is best to place the front edge at the edge of the material, and to allow enough for the turning in. For double breasted garments the middle of front must lay exactly on the warp, or lengthwise thread of the material. The same rules must be observed for all Princesse Robes and for Polonaises.

In cutting out striped materials, there should be a perfect stripe down the middle of the front, and also down the middle of back when the back is made without a seam. Especial care must be taken that the stripes in the sidepieces and in the back, may exactly correspond.

In sleeves, the part above the elbow must be the straight way of the material.

Plate 7.

When any part of a dress, such as the trimmings, &c. has to be cut on the biais, care must be taken that it is exactly on the biais, or it will drag and hang badly when made up.

In a gored skirt, the fronts of the gored pieces must always be on the straight thread; the sides which are towards the back being sloped. If pos sible, avoid having any seam down the middle of the back of a skirt. The allowance for the hem at the bottom must not be forgotten.

In figured or brocaded materials, all the parts of the pattern must be cut the same way of the stuff; that is, with the pattern running in the same direction. It is the same in velvets and napped matrials, all the pieces must be cut so that the pile or nap runs the same way.

Always place all the pieces of the pattern on the material, and make whatever calculations are necessary, before commencing to cut out the stuff.

DEVERE'S SERIES OF

PATTERNS FOR DRESSMAKERS AND FAMILIES. This set of patterns is divided into two parts. The first series has seven brown-paper patterns, for Children and Young Ladies, and is sold for 2s. 6d. post free. The second series has eight brown-paper patterns for Ladies from the smallest to the largest sizes, and is sold for 3s. post free. The sizes of the first Series are:-Chest 19 inches, age 2.-Chest 201, age 4.-Chest 22, age 6.-Chest 24, age 8.-Chest 27, age 11 to 12.-Chest 281, age 12 to 13.Chest 30, age 14 to 15.

The sizes of the second Series are:-Small sizes, Chest 31 and Chest 33. Medium sizes, Chest 34 and Chest 36. Large sizes, Chest measures 37), 39, 41, and 42 inches.

Both these series of patterns are principally intended for Dressmakers. If Ladies require any of the above sizes to suit themselves or their families, they can be supplied at 6d. each pattern.

THE USE OF A

BUST TO LADIES AND DRESSMAKERS, Devere's Model Bust for the use of dressmakers, and private families, will be found a useful adjunct to the dressmakers' art: it is accurately moulded in papier maché, from the most perfect figures, and is covered with black or white calico, thus affording a firm yet flexible surface for the various purposes of trying-on garments. It is mounted on a handsome stand, and by means of the screw shown on the engraving, can be raised or lowered in height according to requirement. Another great advantage is the facility with which it turns round on the pivot, thus enabling the worker to fit or trim the back or front of a dress without moving from her position. French dressmakers find these Busts invaluable in their business, from the ease they afford for the arrangement of the elegant but complicated styles of trimmings so much in vogue at the present time.

For private families, where much of the dressmaking is done at home, a Devere's Model Bust would be found most useful, as with its use, and the aid of our Paris Model Patterns, the most complicated costume can be reproduced with the greatest ease; and one bust would serve for all members of the same family

who are not smaller in size than the bust.

It will also be found very useful in making up lace collars, fichus, &c., &c. In fact any lady once possessing this desirable article will find countless ways of making it useful, and will wonder how she bas contrived to do so long without it.

We have arranged to supply these busts in black or white for the following sizes of chest measure:31, 33, 34, 36, 37 39, 41, and 424 inches, and to deliver them, carefully packed in a crate, and carriage free within 3 miles of Charing Cross, or at any London Railway terminus, on receipt of P. O. O. for 266.

HOW TO ORDER A BUST AND ADAPT IT TO THE FIGURE. When ordering a Bust it is better to send a calico body made to fit, or an old dress body that fits well: the three measures shown on fig. 1 should also be sent, and it should be stated whether the lady is of proportionate figure, or stoops, or is very erect. A Bust suited to the lady will then be carefully selected from our stock, and forwarded with the body.

N. B. It must be understood that it is always necessary to select a Bust slightly smaller than the lady's dress body, because the bust cannot under any circumstances be made smaller, while it is very easy to pad it up to the required size.

If the Bust is too small at the waist, a belt of wadding of the required thickness is to be fastened round the waist, and the same thing can be done as regards the Chest, the shoulders, &c.: if the lady is stooping or round shouldered, two thickness of flannel placed on the upper part of back will bring the Bust to the proper shape; these paddings are simply pinned on the Bust, which may thus be made to serve for persons of different figures and sizes. The best way of enclosing the dress body and Post Office Order, is to buy one of the large Registered letter envelopes measuring 10 inches by 7 inches, which are sold at all Post Offices, price 3d. This will be sufficiently large to contain the Letter, P. O. Order, and Body, without any trouble in packing: the postage will be about 2d. or 3d. according to the thickness of the body.

N. B. The various articles named above can be obtained only from Messrs. Louis Devere & Co., 1, Kelso Place, Kensington, London, W. Orders to be sent by letter, enclosing stamps or P. O. Örder, for the amount.