24

CONSEQUENCE OF RETURN TO THE PORT.

interference of foreign diplomacy, and the threats of foreign aid, he could, at this moment, wrest Constantinople from the descendant of Othman, is equally acknowledged; of which the late battle of Nazib is too conclusive a proof. His right to the kingdom he has conquered, and which I have already described, is no doubt the right of conquest and the strong arm of power; but that kingdom has as good a claim to independence as America had when she threw off the English yoke, or as had Greece, when, assisted by England, she freed herself from Turkish slavery. That Mohammad Alee's rule is a more beneficial one for the country we see daily, in the effort he is making to raise the character and condition of the people from that state of degradation in which the baneful influence of Turkish power had kept them for so many centuries-a power, one of whose most firm tenets was war upon the liberty of thought, and death to the introduction of reform, and regarding all innovations upon the habits, forms, customs, and prejudices of five centuries gone by, as an offence punishable with the loss of life. Mohammad Alee's present right of tenure to those countries which his sword has won, is a right that, in a moral point of view, the powers of Europe should well consider, for it is the benefit he is conferring upon them, by being made the instrument of breaking down the wall of prejudice, ignorance, and superstition, that held those countries in bar

BASHA'S RIGHT TO INDEPENDENCE.

25

barity;-by letting in the light of freedom on them, opening up the avenues to civilization, and preparing for that great process of assimilation, which is now taking place among the different nations, tongues, and people of the world. But it will be asked, was not the late Sooltan a reformer, too? had he not improvements in his army and in his capital? did he not shoot his thousands of Janizaries, and endeavour to Europeanize his people? I will let another, who knew the Turkish empire well, answer these questions. "Of these reforms," says Marshal Marmont, in his late work on the Present State of the Turkish Empire, "it has been thought that the Sultan has created a new order of things, and commenced an era of civilization in Turkey, whereas, in reality, little more has been effected than the destruction of the Janizaries, and the establishment of the new military force. The former was a useful and important act, for which the Sultan is deserving of the highest praise; but the troops by which the Janizaries have been replaced, are far from realising the hopes that were conceived of them; and as to the boasted reforms, they bear only on matters of a frivolous nature, such as the change of titles or of dressthus the turban has been proscribed, the Reis Effendi has changed his name to that of Minister for Foreign Affairs,' the power of the Grand Vizier has been curtailed, the extent of some

26

PRESENT STATE OF THE COUNTRY.

is re

of the provinces altered, and the army cruited by conscription, according to the arbitrary will of the Pachas.

"The great Timars, or Fiefs, which existed in Asia, and were wisely governed, furnished the empire in time of war with twenty thousand good cavalry; but the Sultan has destroyed those fiefs, and as his agents cannot exercise over the population the same degree of authority that the original owners possessed, he neither receives troops nor money from these districts, which are a prey to disorder; every thing, in short, exhibits weakness, and the elements of dissolution are spreading in all directions." And even those changes, insignificant as they appear, are being done away with by the present young Sooltan, who is said to be particularly wedded to all the forms of Mohammadanism, which he is re-introducing, in order, if possible, to become popular, allay the present ferment in Constantinople, and win back the affections of the people to his government; which had been estranged through the reforms attempted to be introduced by his father, but who wanted the energy and decision of Mohammad Alee to carry them into effect. In fact, whatever were the improvements of the late Sooltan Mahmoud, he was in them but a copyist of his viceroy, to meet whom upon equal grounds he introduced them, and not from any wish to serve his people by the change. The states of Europe, jealous of every effort at the destruction of ancient

EFFECTS OF BASHA'S INDEPENDENCE.

27

monarchies, and anxious to maintain the peace of the world, have refused to acknowledge the independence of Mohammad Alee, who naturally desires to see the kingdom he has raised up pass into the possession of his family, for whom he bears a very strong affection. Were that independence now acknowledged, it would bring back to the fertile plains of Egypt and Syria at least one hundred thousand men, the majority of a force he is now obliged to retain, to hold that position which he has assumed. Should Egypt alone become an independent kingdom, what influence will it have upon England? how will it bear upon our Indian frontier, or alter our passage by the Red Sea? Certainly beneficially-as, while in the possession of a government whose counsels are so swayed by Russia, that in violation of all her ancient treaties with England, she consented, at the treaty of Unkar Skelessi, to prevent all English men-of-war from passing the Bosphorus, so that

to reach the Russian capital, the ambassador of Great Britain has to lower the pennant of a line-ofbattle ship, withdraw her guns, shut up her portholes, and enter the Black Sea as a yacht!

Finally, let me observe that, to prevent war between Mohammad Alee and the Porte there is one remedy: let his kingdom remain dependent on Turkey at a stated tribute, but make it hereditary in the family of its present governor.

CHAPTER II.

ASIA MINOR.

Departure for Rhodes--A Hurricane-The Gulf of Symi-Its Scenery--Description of the Bay-The Island of Vurnos-Greek Colony-Island of PatelinaRemains of the Knights of St. John-Village of Darachia-Water Tortoises― Climate-Rhodes-Its Harbour-The Knights' Tower-Fortifications-The Strada Cavaliere-Its Council Hall-Escutcheons-A Dream of the Past-The Burial Ground-Ancient Guns-Inhabitants-Greek Quarter-Condition of the Island-Cause of its Decay-Auction-Bashalicks-Effect upon the People --The late Reforms-Climate-Leprosy Zoology-The Colossus and Ancient Harbour-The Basha-His Residence and Costume-Troops-Petrified Beach -A Funeral-A Launch-Visit to Marmorice-Its Scenery-Town--A Serenade-Neighbouring Valleys-Summer Houses-Inhabitants-Bees-Mountain Vegetation-Land Tortoises-The Ancient Physcus-Grave-yards--Fat-tailed Sheep—Bay of Karagatch—The Surrounding Country-Plane Trees-Turkomans-A Shooting Excursion-Proceed to the Gulf of Glaucus.

WE left Alexandria with a fair wind, on the morning of the 7th February, for Rhodes, whose snug harbour offered us secure head quarters for some time, and whose climate is particularly mild at this season of the year. In the commencement of this, as in nearly all our other voyages, we encountered a gale of wind shortly after setting out. On the 8th it blew a perfect hurricane, and