like a neckerchiefe, likewise poudered, so that by their pouderings their degrees might be knowne. Then followed ladies, being knights' wives, in gownes of scarlet, with narrow sleeves, without traines, only edged with lettice." The hair is gracefully arranged in Holbein's picture. It is drawn back from the forehead in small curls; a broad plait hangs from the top of the head, over one ear; and the crown, placed far back, is held in its place by an ornamented caul and wreath of gold. In another portrait, Anne is represented with her hair braided over her forehead, and hanging down over her shoulders; on her head is a cap, adorned with precious stones, and a tassel falling behind. Her train is not long, and her sleeves are large, wide, open down the outside, and ornamented with three bows of riband. But this cannot be strictly considered the English costume of this reign; for, Anne having passed many years in France, it is likely that she might adopt the fashions of that nation-amongst others, that of wearing lappets. During the reign of a monarch who delighted so much in splendour and display of every kind, in masques, tournaments, and jousts, and who, we are told, even on ordinary occasions, wore a collar of ballas rubies pendant from his neck, diamonds inserted in his bonnet, and rings clustering round his fingers, it is to be supposed that his courtiers vied with each other in splendour and magnificence of apparel. The grave churchmen, too, had an example of extravagance and display set before them, which they were not slow to follow, for nothing could surpass the richness of the attire of Cardinal Wolsey; his very shoes, says Roy, being "Of gold and stones precious, Costing many a thousand pounds.” These were, indeed, the days when gallants "Wear a farm in shoe-strings edged with gold, A hose and doublet which a lordship cost, A gaudy cloak three mansions' price almost ; Prized at the church's tithe." Under the house of Tudor, no shoe could be fashionable that was not fastened with a full-blown rose; but in shape they were not so extravagantly long as those formerly worn. Under Henry the Eighth, silk stockings, it is said, were first brought to England. On this subject, however, there seems to be some doubt. Planché, in his "History of British Costume," thus describes their introduction: "Hose or stockings of silk are generally supposed to have been unknown in this country before the middle of the sixteenth century; and a pair of long Spanish hose of silk were presented as a gift worthy the acceptance of a monarch, by Sir T. Gresham, to Edward the Sixth." Howe, in the continuation to Stowe's "Chronicle," asserts that Henry the Eighth never wore any hose but such as were made of cloth. This, however, is contradicted by an entry mentioned in the inventory of his apparel, which is to be found in the Harleian Library, where we read the account of several pairs of "silk hose," "one short pair of black silk and gold woven together; one of purple silk and Venice gold, woven like unto a cawl [i.e. of open or net-work], lined with blue silver [sarcenet], edged with a passemain [lace] of purple silk and gold, wrought at Milan; a pair of white silk and gold hose, knit; and six pair of black silk hose, knit." And in an inventory of still earlier date, taken about the eighth year of his reign, both satin and velvet are mentioned as the materials of which his hose are composed. 66 But then the question arises, whether, by the word hose," the writer of the above really meant stockings, or whether he intended to describe the nether garment so much worn at that time, which consisted of stockings and breeches all in one, frequently called, by old writers, "hose" and "hosen?" Shakspeare uses the word for breeches, and also for stockings: "He, being in love, could not see to garter his hose." Howe certainly intended to express stockings; but, probably, the "embroidered and lined hose," and those made of satin and velvet, were, in fact, the coverings of the upper part of the legs, which at that time were frequently made of velvet, satin, cloth of gold, and other rich materials; and this appears the more likely, as in another part of the same inventory we read an entry as follows: "A yard and a half of green velvet for stocks to a paire of hose for the king's grace;" and in other parts we find various stuffs mentioned, used for "stocking the hose." The shoes at this time were variously shaped, and richly ornamented. Buskins, slashed like the doublets, were also very fashionable. Some were of satin, some of velvet, and frequently the toes were broad and wide, and the shoe had a strap across the instep. In the "Memoirs of the Court of Henry the Eighth," we read: "The dress of females of rank was restricted by limitations of a nature somewhat similar to those which restricted the absurdities of male attire, and was less extravagant. The gown, composed of silk or velvet, was shortened or lengthened according to the rank of the wearer. The countess was obliged by the rules of etiquette to have a train before and behind, which she hung upon her arm, or fastened in her girdle; the baroness, and all under her degree, were prohibited from assuming that badge of distinction. The matrons were distinguished from unmarried women by the different mode of their head-attire; the hood of the former had recently been superseded by a coif, or close bonnet, of which the pictures of Holbein give a representation; while the youthful and the single, with characteristic simplicity, wore the hair braided with knots of riband." Frontlets and lappets now came into fashion; also hats and bonnets. The lappets often fell below the shoulders, and were frequently made of velvet, studded with precious stones. Some were very broad, others broad near the face, and tapering towards the ends. Sometimes they turned back, and fluttered in the breeze like streamers. Embroidered petticoats and gowns were now much worn by the female sex. The latter were frequently made open in front, so as to shew the satin kirtle beneath ; an embroidered apron, flowered in gold and coloured silks, was also greatly admired. The bodice, or, as it was formerly called, the surcoat, was generally of a different colour from the rest of the dress, and had a richly ornamented stomacher. "Gowns of blew velvet, cut and lined with cloth of gold, made after the fashion of Savoy," are named by a writer of the day, who also describes the dress worn by Anne of Cleves, which consisted of "a ryche gowne of cloth of gold, raised, made round, without any trayne, after the Dutch fashion." Thanks to the observations of these old chroniclers, we are here informed of two new modes, but the latter one appears not to have pleased the English ladies, as we do not read of its being adopted. The partlet and waistcoat were also invented at this time. The former, Mr. Strutt imagines, usurped the place of the gorget or barbe. In an inventory of that day we read of "partelets of Venice gold knit, two partelets of Venice gold, caul fashion, two of white thread, and two partelets of white lawn, wrought with gold about the collars." They are supposed to have resembled modern habit-shirts, and were made with or without sleeves. Ladies' head-dresses were various: sometimes they wore a velvet cap, adorned with jewels, and a longflowing veil; others adopted a caul, a coif, or a French hood; and Stowe speaks of three-cornered caps. They were, he says, white, and three-square, and the peaks full three or four inches from the head. Frontlets were also worn, before bonnets were introduced. The gentlemen's hair, which, till this reign, had been worn long and flowing, was, by an order of this despotic monarch, condemned to be cut quite short, to the no small disgust of the gallants of that day, who, however, were a little consoled by the gracious permission of their sovereign to wear a fierce beard and |