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ally people who do right;) he dictated the following, which I wrote from his mouth :-"When the army advances, I wish that a messenger may be sent on to Ferdana's to inform me of their approach, in order that I may go out and meet them with my people. We are of one house with the Abalungus. Your children are dying with the sun-we have no milk; and wish to have cattle, as we have not had any since Charka took them from us." After finishing this important epistle, Faku went to his hut and brought a basket of beer; of which according to the custom of the country, he first partook, and then handed to me. By several of the party some ludicrous remarks were made upon my horse, which was standing near; and one man observed -"How much better it would look if it had horns like an eland!" They have no horses among them; nor do they evince any desire to obtain them. The whole disposable force which Faku could bring into the field is, I understand, from twelve to fifteen thousand; though, on ordinary occasions, he seldom orders out more than seven or eight thousand.

Fakū is at all times a man of few words; but when speaking to-day on the subject of income (cattle,) at all times the most interesting to a native, he became quite animated. On my return to Bunting, I found that the cart had arrived, having had another upset on the day we left it. My servant, Umpondombeeni, was all admiration at the novelties of this station. He was greatly amused at the pigs, having only once seen one before; but the glass in the window-sashes excited his greatest surprise, and it was some time before he could convince himself that there was any thing to prevent his hand from passing through.

Tuesday, 4th.-Took leave of Mr. and Mrs. Tainton, who kindly supplied me with provisions for the way. Started at about ten, with three men from the station carrying my baggage-my interpreter and myself being mounted upon two miserable, sore-backed horses, which had been purchased by Mr. Fynn for government use. We were soon out of the inhabited part of Faku's territory; but it is still as mountainous, and at this season was completely dried up, with scarcely a tree to be seen for miles. In the neighborhood of Umtagaichi and Umdoombi rivers, which crossed our route, we passed the sites of several villages formerly belonging to Umyăki-he was driven hence by Faku about eighteen months ago, since which period he has been living with his whole tribe much nearer to the coast. The cause of his expulsion was in revenge for an attempt to bewitch, as it is termed, the cattle of Faku. Umyǎki had despatched two men to Faku, for the alleged purpose of procuring beads, but they were at the same time accompanied by an Egeerha, or bewitcher, who brought away some of the manure from the cattle-fold at the Great Place, with an intention on his reaching home to procure by this means the infliction of some fatal disease upon the cattle of Fakü. From the chief downward, it is quite distressing to observe how all succumb to this subtle artifice of the powers of darkness, which has not only reduced the whole nation to a species of mental bondage, but has probably occasioned more blood to flow than any of the numerous feuds that have been known to exist.

My watch having within these few days become unserviceable, I am now obliged to calculate in the native manner, by observing the position of the sun, and by this reckoning I consider that we reached the Umtata about a quarter-past six. The bed of this river is strewed with detached slabs of rock; and as it was nearly dusk when we crossed, my horse, losing his footing, fell, and ejected me up to my knees in the stream. We had now entered the Amatembu country, and were not long in discovering, at a distance, some straggling houses; but it was almost too dark to distinguish them among the bushes. At this time we were threading a low jungle by a winding path, directed only by one lad, who had out-walked the other guides, when suddenly we were surrounded by several men, approaching from different directions, and all well armed with assegais. The guide, alarmed at their appearance, ran off and concealed himself behind one of the bushes; while, conscious of the danger, I immediately reined up, in order to answer their inquiries as to who we were-where we came from-where we were going-where Tpai was-what Fakû was about-and many other similar questions. Being somewhat satisfied with my replies, they acknowledged that they had taken us for spies. On being told that I was a teacher, one of them observed that I should tell the people to be still, and not to be always making war. We were then allowed to proceed without further detention; but there is not the slightest doubt that they would have commenced throwing their assegais had not I pulled up at the moment they accosted us. We soon reached the spot where a chief named Cosiana formerly lived; but being too dark to search for his new abode on the other side of the mountain, and, moreover, hearing that he was absent, we returned to a Fingo hut, which we had passed near the road-a wretched, dirty hovel, but where we were hospitably received. It was here we first heard the fate of the two men who had been sent from Bunting with letters for the camp, about a month ago. By an account brought through a Fingo, they are said to have been murdered by a party of Chungi's people on their way, and not far from the ford on the Kei river.

Wednesday, 5th.-Wishing to travel light, in order to reach Ferdana's Great Place in good time this evening, I left the greater part of the baggage in charge of the guides, directing them to proceed with it to a chief named Kăbi, about half the distance, and remain there until they heard from me.

We proceeded about half-past seven, the road passing over elevated downs; the country less broken; in many parts rocky, and generally destitute of trees. Stopped about eleven, and procured a little amas, but not until all their questions had been satisfied. So suspicious are these people, probably from habit, being continually embroiled with their neighbors, that in no instance could we obtain the commonest information respecting the road, until the usual string of questions had been duly put and replied to. The women evinced so much alarm at our appearance, that, on perceiving us at a distance, they would hasten along in another direction; and if, as it sometimes happened, we surprised them, while

procuring water from the streams, they would in-
stantly leave their calabashes and bowls, and make
hastily off. Passed through several very large
flights of locusts, which appeared to be commit-
ting great ravages among the little grass that re-
mained. Crossed the Bashee, another very rocky
river, at about four; and in half an hour more
reached Ferdana's village—a collection of miser-
able looking huts (twelve in number,) dotted about
without any appearance of regularity. Neither
these, nor the Amaponda towns, have any exterior
fences; the cattle-folds are small, and not always
in the centre; and the houses, both within and
without, are sadly defective in point of cleanliness.
They have, however, the advantage of an interior
skreen about the door-way; which prevents the
wind from driving the smoke about, and contri-
butes to make them warm, though at the expense
of light. Here, again, we were suspected. Fer-
dana, I was told, was on a hunting expedition, in
which he had taken all his horses for the pursuit
of elands. The sun had long set behind the hills
before the usual catechising had ended; and,
seated upon my saddle in front of Ferdana's hut,
I patiently awaited its termination. Not a house
was offered, nor food of any kind given. At first
they proposed that I should go on to the mission-
ary station, not far distant; and afterwards to
another village. Suspecting that they were (as
is not unfrequently the case with the people) de-
ceiving me as to the movements of their.chief, I
told them that I had come to see Ferdana; and
that as this was his place, it was not my intention
to go further; adding, that hitherto I had always
understood they were hospitable to strangers.
After waiting some little time longer, a woman of
the party observed, that the Incosi-case ought to It was exceedingly painful to me to be thus
be spoken to about furnishing a hut. In our situ- under the necessity of breaking open the mission-
ation a hint of this kind was not to be lost: my house; but I felt convinced that, had its inmates
interpreter accordingly went on this errand; and been here, they would gladly have afforded me
we were shortly after received into a hut belong- every comfort in their power. My principal re-
ing to the widow of the late chief Gubinu, or gret is to find it untenanted; and the work of
Vosani, as he is frequently called. Baadi (the Christian instruction suspended. Our neighbors
Incosi-case) was his mother; and it is her grand- are by no means ceremonious: while quietly
son, still a minor under the guardianship of Fer-writing this morning, a man introduced himself at
dana, who will eventually succeed to the govern-
ment. The hut in which we were now lodged
was sufficiently capacious, but filthy in the ex-
treme and by the occasional flickering of the
fire, when the smoke had sufficiently dispersed, I
perceived the good woman who had long been
preparing a mess of tripe, first stirring it about
with her hand, and then portioning it out in the
same unceremonious manner to the company, in-
cluding a tribe of hungry children, with two or
three men who dropped in at this critical time,
and employed their assegais to divide the toughest
parts. Notwithstanding my various companions,
I was sufficiently tired to sleep comfortably upon
a floor, which, for the peculiar unevenness of its
surface, might have served for a model of the ma-
ritime Alps.

dogs! Although messengers have been sent to
apprise Ferdana of my arrival, it is quite uncer-
tain where he may be found; and as I have no
great inclination to renew my acquaintance with
the calves, I considered it desirable, if possible,
to find an asylum in some of the missionary build-
ings at Clarkebury, about two miles and a half
distant. The horses were accordingly saddled,
and we soon reached the mission-house, which
had been abandoned about three months. It had,
indeed, a most desolate appearance: with the ex-
ception of one girl, who had formerly attended on
Mrs. Davis, all the natives belonging to the sta-
tion had left with the missionary family. A few
of the neighboring huts, however, were occupied
by some people sent by Ferdana to take charge
of the property. This trust they had faithfully
performed: thorn-bushes were placed under all
the windows to prevent their being opened, and
we found every thing perfectly secure. Circum-
stanced as I was, there was no alternative but to
draw the nail which secured a window from with-
out, and enter by that means; no person having
been entrusted with any of the keys, which I
conclude were taken away. Here, to my great
relief, two sacks of Kafir corn were found; several
utensils for cooking; and a few chickens. Had
it been otherwise we should have fared but poorly,
milk was not to be procured among the natives;
and their corn, from having been kept under-
ground, had now acquired so unpleasant a flavor,
that the cravings of hunger alone would have in-
duced me to eat it: no other could be procured
from them at this season of the year, even had
I the means of purchasing, which was not the
case.

the window,-which, by the by, was the only entrance at that time, with an assegai in his hand. Until the return of my interpreter, I thought it better to take no notice of him; when he introduced himself as chief of the party placed in charge of the mission premises. He had come, he said, to hear the news, having been absent when I arrived; and was only just returned from a nightly excursion, in order if possible to trace the footprints of enemies up the river. Tpai's people on one side, and the Amamăs (a revolted tribe of Amatembu) on the other, who are perpetually stealing their cattle, keep them in a constant state of alarm; insomuch that all the herds are withdrawn to a considerable distance from the frontier; and the miserable inhabitants of those districts are never secure for a day. On the decline Thursday, 6th.—So dim was the fire, and so of the moon (now full,) it is said that Tpai medidense the smoke, that it was not until day-light tates another attack, which keeps them on the had thoroughly penetrated the crevices of our alert. That Ferdana should absent himself, under abode, that I was fully aware of the different or- such circumstances, appears to me incomprehenders of mammalia that it contained. Besides our-sible, unless his hunting excursion should prove selves, the two women and five children, there but another name for a marauding expedition, were no less than nine calves, and one or two which is far more probable, particularly as he was

not long since attacked by a mounted party of Abasootu, in the direction he is now said to have taken. In this affair he had decidedly the advantage, killing several of the assailants, and capturing ten of their horses. I am, notwithstanding, inclined to suspect that he is still here concealed among his people.

SOLITUDE SWEETENED.

And is this solitude-to be alone?

No heart to soothe-no face to cheer! Is there not One to whom we're known, Though yet unseen, still always near? Ah, yes-a Friend the Christian knows, Who follows him where'er he goes!

Dear Lord thy people can attest

Thou art a precious Friend indeed! Possessing Thee, they must be blessed; For thou canst give them all they need! Sweet solace of my loneliest hour, Quicken my heart to feel thy power.

With such a Friend for ever nigh,

Bereft we cannot-dare not feel! Jesus will every loss supply,

And all His wonted love reveal. Let me but feel that Thou art near, And solitude will then be dear!

Saturday, 8th.-Having understood from Gugu, the petty chief in charge of the station, that in the absence of Ferdana, the Incosi-case frequently issued orders under the direction of the Amapakati (councillors,) I walked over to the village this morning in the hope at least of forwarding a letter to the English camp. She informed me that the messengers despatched for Ferdana had returned last night, without having discovered any trace of his route; and, as the councillors were all with him, nothing could in consequence be done; that the people were unwilling to venture their lives among the Amakosa, who were lurking about in small parties to cut off all intercourse from this quarter. On inquiring whether she would give her sanction, should I find a person willing to go, she assented, saying, that probably I might procure one, but she was quite certain no one would go for her. As Gogu had previously assured me, that a native acquainted with the country might proceed without much difficulty, I now thought there was some prospect of succeeding, and immediately returned to consult with him. Not one of them, however, could be induced to move in the matter, notwithstanding a tempting offer of cattle was made. They had no idea of volunteering in this service if ordered by their chief, they said, they must go, but without such a command they would not undertake it. Had not Gugu represented the undertaking as one of no great hazard in the way that they would manage it, I should not have urged the point, making it a rule never to require of others what I would not, if necessary, undertake myself. To attempt without guides my original plan, of riding through during the night, would have been madness, especially as it required excellent horses, and ours were none of the fleetest. Could fresh horses have been procured here, with

a mounted guide, it was my intention to have made the attempt; but the reported absence of Ferdana, and the decided disinclination to forward my wishes on the part of all here, obliged me to give up the plan. My next and only resort was to procure guides to escort me through the mountain passes to the westward, in which direction it would be only needful to traverse a very small tract of country, recently occupied by a part of Hinza's tribe, and by which route I should probably reach the colonial frontier in the course of a very few days. This, however, was also declined; and thus foiled in all my plans for pushing forward, but two courses seemed to offer-either to wait here an indefinite time for Ferdana, or to return to Bunting, with the hope of inducing Fakû to furnish me with a sufficient force to make my way through the hostile tribes. On many accounts the latter appeared to be the most judicious; and I accordingly resolved to commence my return early on Monday morning. The wind from south-west to east has been very high for these three days past, and the weather quite cold, with a sharp frost whitening the ground every morning. The soil, which is clay, and generally bare of trees, may contribute to lower the temperature; at present every thing is so dried up, that scarcely any grass is remaining. This part of the country, notwithstanding its present arid appearance, is very populous, several villages being visible from the windows of the missionhouse. In no other respect does it appear an eligible spot for such an establishment, particularly as the water is not convenient; that procured from the neighboring well being frequently much discolor ed after rain.

Sunday, 9th.

your heart, all ye that hope in the Lord.”—(Psalm "Be of good courage and He shall strengthen xxxi. 24.)

Hence ye faithless fears away-
Is not Jesus strong to aid?
He will be thy shield and stay,
All thy cares on Him be laid.
Has He not in love declared,

"As thy day thy strength shall be?"
Grace sufficient is prepared

For all who to His succour flee.

Ah, yes, dear Lord! though all should fail,
To Thee my helpless soul would cleave:
Thy promises shall still prevail-

Thy people Thou wilt never leave!
Held in the hollow of Thine hand,
How oft the shafts of death have sped;
Thou canst my fiercest foe withstand,
And shelter my defenceless head!

Thou art my hope-whate'er betide
My breath, my substance-all is Thine'
Let but Thy name be glorified,

And life itself I could resign.

Oh! if Thy presence go before,

Then every path is smooth and plain ; And though it lead to Jordan's shore, "Twill end in everlasting gain !

What rapture then to join that band,

Through fires of tribulation brought! For ever round the throne to stand,

Adoring Him our ransom bought!

No natives could be collected in the morning, but in the afternoon a few attended the Kafir service in the mission-house.

the expectation of having it ground and boiled on the road, was now, for want of this necessary preparation, given to the jaded horses; one of whom was so thoroughly knocked up, that in order to urge him on at all it became necessary to secure the bridle to my saddle and literally take it in tow, my interpreter occasionally dismounting and flogging it on. The locusts were so numerous in Monday, 10th.-In this weak and suspicious some parts of our journey this day, that the ground country, I thought it prudent to advise the good could scarcely be seen, and numbers were crushpeople at the Gumkula of my intended return, and ed under the horses' feet. They are smaller than accordingly rode round by their huts, but either those generally seen in the Zoolu country, and by design or otherwise the Incosi-case was not have not the pink color on the wing. Delayed by forthcoming. After a little demur, Cheecha, an our sorry beasts, we did not reach Bunting till old man (reported to be a councillor) came up, and after sunset; and although much disappointed at to him I delivered a message to Ferdana, with a the necessity of retracing my steps, I felt thankful request that on his return he would either furnish at having again reached such comfortable quarters, me with a mounted guide to the Kei, or forward especially as we had tasted nothing since eight a letter to the English camp on the other side. o'clock on the previous morning, when we had The message he said should be delivered; but he breakfasted on Kafir-corn gruel. It was a proviwas quite sure that Ferdana would do neither the dential circumstance that I did not partake of the one nor the other, as he was daily expecting an Kafir-corn in its raw state, as I had more than attack from the people of Chungi; the Amamãias, once intended in the course of this day's ride; who are in league with them, captured two herds having since learned that in all probability it would of cattle but the day before. They appear never have been fatal, as it has the property of swelling, to have forgiven the loss of some cattle taken from and even when not sufficiently boiled, is very prethem by the Machallas (the Amatembu tribe among judicial: many instances, I am told, have occurred whom we now are,) as the escort were conveying when natives, exhausted by hunger on their warthe missionaries from Clarkebury across their ter- like expeditions, have died in a few hours after eatritory, about three months since; and it is no doubting a quantity of it improperly cooked. Found the in order to avenge this loss that they are now combining against them.

As an evidence of the insincerity of these people, no less than seventeen or eighteen horses were observed near Ferdana's cattle-place, on the banks of the Bashee, as we passed; which at once confirmed my opinion that the whole of his absence was a deceit. On reaching Kabi's to my great disappointment, I found that the guides had returned home the day before. It had been my endeavor while at Clarkebury, to communicate with them, being desirous that they should join me there; but notwithstanding all my efforts, with the promise of beads, no person could be induced to undertake this errand. To procure a guide on the route was out of the question; for so uncivil were they at every village we passed, that nothing, not even a drop of milk could be procured. On leaving the inhabited district, I had no other resource than to direct my course by the sun. After a tedious ride, partly in the dark, we reached the Umtata, and rested on the bank for the night; but, although the cold was severe, I was unwilling to indulge in a fire, lest it might attract notice and bring down an armed party to disturb our repose. For some time I endeavored to sleep; but at length, almost benumbed, determined at all risks to kindle a blaze. Observing a deep fissure where the flame might be sufficiently concealed, we repaired thither; but, although a tolerable fire was kept up throughout the remainder of the night, it was but little sleep that I could obtain, the air being keen and the ground covered with frost.

Tuesday, 11th.-Finding that I had made the river at a point considerably higher than the usual ford, I this morning shaped a most easterly course; the whole country to the Umgazi being a complete wilderness without an inhabitant. A small bundle of Kafir-corn brought from Clarkebury, with

station in much concern respecting the melancholy tidings brought by the guides who arrived last night. Both of the messengers who had been killed on their way to the camp were much respected; and one of them, David, is said to have been under deep religious impressions. Their wives and families were in great grief. Previous to starting, David had imprudently borrowed the panther-skin ingoobo (cloak) which had been given to the last messenger on his reaching the British head-quarters: and it is said that this was recognised by a party of Amakosa as having formerly belonged to one of their chiefs, killed by the English, and led to their discovery and consequent murder. My own guides, it appeared, had not been very handsomely treated; their lives had been more than once threatened while remaining at Kabi's village; and as they had heard nothing from me for three days, they said they concluded I had proceeded to the Kei, and were glad to leave a country where they had all along been taken for spies.

Saturday, 15th.-With the hope of obtaining some information respecting a route which I might be necessitated to take across the Quathlamba mountains, towards the north-eastern frontier of the colony, I crossed the Umzimvoobo on Thursday, to Mr. Fynn's village, about twenty-six miles distant from hence, and returned last night. The remains of that immense and extirpating horde, led on by the celebrated Matuana;-and who, from their unsparing ferocity, have obtained the name of Fitcani (destroyers) are still to be found in almost every district of this part of the continent

their battle-ground having extended quite across to the very embouchure of the Orange river. It was from some of these people that I was anxious to obtain an account of the country to the westward, and a promise of assistance, should I attempt the

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to be often so swollen after this dreadful infliction as to appear scarcely human. If found guilty, they are only released to be beaten to death with knobbed sticks and stones. Accounts have just been received of some spies from Kheeli (son of the late Hinza) having traversed the country, from which I have just returned, in their way to one of the upper branches of the Umzimvoobo; where, it is said, a part of his tribe have an intention of removing on the advance of the English troops. It is a providential circumstance that we

"Do this in remembrance of me.”—(Luke xxii. 19.) did not fall in with them, as they are reported to

What a hateful thing is sin!

How it steals the heart away; Though subdued-it leaves within

A poison, death alone can stay; It dims the eye of faith, and chills The love that oft our bosom fills.

Could we otherwise refrain

From weeping when he heard Him say;"Remember me who once was slain

To wash your guilty stains away."
Should we so oft mementos need
To think of such a Friend indeed.

What is all our love compared

To that which Jesus has bestowed? In all our sorrows he has shared,

For us his precious blood has flowed! Can we behold that wond'rous sight And not our thankless bosoms smite?

Kindle, O Lord! a heavenly flame,

Within my heart thy grace impart; I would confess with deepest shame The coldness of my lukewarm heart. Oh! let me ever mindful be

Of Him whose blood was shed for me.

Be this my boast while life shall last,
Redeeming grace and dying love;
Then when this pilgrimage is past,

In realms of endless joy, above,
My rapturous song will ceaseless be,
My Saviour has remembered me!

Conducted the Kafir services morning and afternoon.

Tuesday, 18th.-The affection from which Faku has lately been suffering in his eyes has, as usual, been attributed to witchcraft. Since I last saw him, he has allowed himself to be punctured above the eye-brow by a witch doctor, who pretended to extract from the opening a small quantity of snuff, which he declared had been placed there by an enemy, and had occasioned the disease. The inflammation, relieved by the operation, has since gradually subsided; and the alleged Umtakati (bewitcher) is already in confinement. In order to extort confession, it is not an unusual method to pinion the accused individual to the ground with forked stakes, with the head resting in an ant-hill; the body is then strewed over with the debris of ants'-nests taken from the trees, while water is dashed upon them in order to excite the insects to bite more sharply. The torture must be extreme, as the whole body is said

have been well armed and mounted, and are not likely to have spared two Englishmen who were defenceless.

Although the Amapondas are a mild and hospitable people, some of their customs would indicate the utmost degree of barbarity. It is usual for the ruling chief, on his accession to the government, to be washed in the blood of a near relative, generally a brother, who is put to death on the occasion, and his skull used as a receptacle for his blood. Faku would have undergone this horrid libation, had not his brother Gwingi, whose turn it was, according to the rules prescribed, made his escape to a neighboring tribe. For some time after a diligent search was made for his person, and he has never since thoroughly recovered from the exposure and hardships which he endured while lying so long concealed from his merciless pursuers. In consequence of the Christian remonstrances of Mr. Tainton, he was at length suffered to return; and Faku has allowed the horrid practice, as regards himself, to go into desuetude, which, for the sake of humanity, it is to be hoped will never again be revived. The palliative sanction of custom cannot, however, be admitted in the case of Umyăki, now an independent Amaponda chief, residing near the coast in the direction of Morley. Having defeated a party of Amatembu, who had attacked him in his own country, Gallāka, the son of an inferior chief, fell into his hands a prisoner. On his being brought to Umyaki, he immediately despatched him with his own hand, and then ordered his heart and liver to be boiled, with the broth of which, poured into his skull, he caused himself to be washed. This, however, is regarded, even by the natives themselves, as an unusual act of barbarity, and has given great offence to all the neighboring chiefs; still, in both instances, as well as in the more ge neral custom of drinking the gall of their enemies, (practised, I believe, exclusively among the chiefs,) the object mainly in view is the acquisition, as they imagine, of additional bodily strength. But even these are nothing when compared with the various and wanton inflictions of their witch doctors, many of which are revolting in the extreme. About three years ago one of these diabolical agents (not, as it is said, without some color of ancient sanction,) perpetrated the following act in order to propitiate success for Faku's army, then on the eve of taking the field. He directed that the fore-leg of a living bull should be cut off at the shoulder, and then ordered the men with their teeth to tear the flesh from the reeking limb and devour it on the spot, while the tortured animal was left to a cruel and lingering death. The acquisition of cattle is the grand incitive to war

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