suffering and danger; and all the people here united in endeavouring to dissuade us from it. The only

encouragement we received was-" Why it is just possible that you may get up.” Nevertheless we determined on making the attempt, and accordingly sent for the guides. They did not appear to relish the journey either, but consented on the condition of their getting an additional gratuity. In summer the usual mode of proceeding is to leave the port about one or two o'clock in the day, and sleeping at a place called the Estanza des Inglises, (elevated about 10,000 feet, and the highest spot to which horses can be brought,) commence the ascent of the actual Piton by moonlight, so as to be on the top at sunrise. Christoval, our principal guide, wished us to wait till twelve o'clock, but it was finally arranged that we should leave at ten P.M. For the last two days I had been suffering from an old enemy, asthma, aggravated by a heavy cold, and I trembled for the result, but it is not every day in a man's life that he stands at the foot of the Peak of Teneriffe, so I concealed my illness both from myself and others as well as I could, and determined to ascend at all hazards.

Having completed our arrangements with the guides, we dismissed them till the appointed hour, and set off to visit the great dragon-tree of Oratava, situate at the distance of a mile or two from the port. On our way we passed by the fine botanic garden, established by a Spanish nobleman some

THE BOTANIC GARDEN.

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years ago, but now left to decay. It was well kept during his lifetime, but fearful of its being neglected by his own family, he presented it to the government on his death. This act has had a fatal tendency; for they, instead of fostering it, tried to compel his own son to keep it up, but having failed in the attempt they left it to ruin. It is now in the hands of a most ignorant Frenchman, who is neither a botanist nor a gardener. Some time ago the Prussian government offered to purchase it, in order to naturalize some of the plants of the western world before they were brought to Europe: but the Spanish, with becoming dignity and pride, chose to let it fall to ruin in their own hands rather than allow it to flourish in another's! A garden such as this would be a great acquisition to the English-foremost as they are in the cultivation of every minute, as well as great and noble scheme by which knowledge can be increased, and man rendered happy in its possession-to such it would be a great desideratum, as many plants could be acclimatized here, and so made hardy enough to bear the English temperature. Surely such a one ought to be here or in Madeira, where the plants of the varied climes of India, Australia, Africa, and America, could meet a more congenial atmosphere. How many horticultural societies could well afford to pay an intelligent gardener in this cheap country, and with a rich reward.

The town of Oratava not only looks deserted, but

148

THE DRAGON TREE.

is really so. Many of the houses are perfect palaces, and were originally the residence of the aristocracy of the island-the real "blue blood," as the Spanish nobility were wont to call themselves; but the moss is fast creeping over the proud escutcheons that decorate their entrances.

This place is beautifully situated, and has a small stream of water running through each of the streets like the Lavadas of Madeira. We were directed to the garden where the dragon-tree (dracoma draco) stands; and found it in much better preservation than we could have expected, and still very like Mr. Williams's representation of it. The species of tree to which this belongs has an odd and grotesque appearance it is characterised by a short, thick, leafless trunk, branching out at top with a number of diminutive arms, not unlike a candelabrum, each crowned with a tuft of leaves. The measurement of this specimen is forty-seven feet nine inches in circumference above the roots; the trunk is partly hollow, and the opening, which is built up with stones, is thirteen feet in the clear; it must have spread since Humboldt's time, who made the circumference but forty-five feet. The branches are propped up with a number of poles, which look like so many crutches supporting its old age; it is, however, going fast to decay, and although it still produces leaves, it has not borne flowers or fruit for some years. Two young shoots have sprung out of the hollow, and beside it waves one of the finest palms I ever saw,

PREPARATION FOR THE ASCENT.

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which seems to rear its tall majestic form in mockery of its tottering neighbour. One feels a degree of veneration on standing beside such a patriarch of the vegetable world, which has withstood the suns and storms of centuries. It is supposed to be one of the oldest trees in existence, and is a fit associate for the Cowthorpe oak-the great chesnut of Tamworth-the olives of Gethsemane-the plane tree of Frauhenstein-the Castagno di Cento Cavalli, at Etna-and the still older though ungraceful Baobabs figured in Macartney's Embassy. The combined ages of a few of those would bring us to the first dawn of life upon our planet.

Towards evening I became quite excited and restless, between the desire to proceed and the fear of failure. We had provisions and water packed for several days in case of accident; as should we be caught in the snow, or overtaken by a storm, our only chance would have been to remain in some crevice of a rock until it had passed over. Our consul kindly sent us a present of wine and brandy, that of the town being most wretched stuff. At nine the moon rose in the most tempting splendour-she was then within one day of the full. We put on a double suit of every thing; and, besides a pair of great coats, and a large cloak, a double blanket was provided for each. At 10 o'clock, P. M. the guides made their appearance, with four horses, two of which were provided for us, and two to carry the provisions. At half-past ten

o'clock every thing was ready, our cigars lighted, and we started. Our cavalcade consisted of my friend Mr. William Meiklam, and myself, on horseback, preceded by our principal guide Christoval, a-foot; then came the two sumpter horses, and lastly our two other guides, an old man and a boy, who formed our rere-guard, and we had also with us a magnificent black spaniel. The night was very fine and warm; we set off in high spirits, and commenced our ascent almost immediately on leaving the town. We soon began to feel the effects of the cold, were obliged to add to our clothing, and the men to put on their blankets. Our guide Christoval pleased us much; he was one of the finest models of a man I ever beheld, and although of Herculean form, he had all the grace of a Spaniard, and a countenance of extreme intelligence. He is not the usual guide to the top, but provides horses as far as the Estanza. He offered, however, to become our guide to the summit on giving him the usual additional allowance of four dollars. We accepted his proposal-and I would advise all travellers to do the same, as you give him an additional interest to get you to the top, besides making him hasten on the horses so as to bring you to the Estanza in proper time; for many have gone thus far, and, from useless delays, have been obliged to return without accomplishing their object. We found him a good guide in every respect. Our older guide seemed to suffer much from the cold,