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AUTHOR.

PAGE B. F. DE COSTA.....

39 .E. L. YOUMANS..

85 JUNIUS HENRI BROWNE.

128

456 .ETHEL C. GALE.

163 JULIAN HAWTHORNE.... 1, 171, 297, 402 .ALBERT F. WEBSTER..

210 GEORGE SAND....

77, 97, 202 .Lizzie W. CHAMPNEY

538 .JAMES E. FREEMAN.

58, 156 LUCY H. HOOPER.

305 .W. H. RIDEING.

167 WIRT SIKES..

123 .THE EDITOR.

556

89 .F. R. GOULDING..

446 CONSTANCE FENIMORE WOOLson... 438 GEORGE M. TOWLE....... 347, 405, 492 .CHARLOTTE ADAMS,

262 .WIRT SIKES..

258 .W. M. F. ROUND

345 ..JOEL BENTON....

363

437

SUBJECT.
Holy Mounts, Two. (Illustrated.)..
In-Doors and Out-of-Doors..
Isotta Contarini....
Katrina Van Tassel. (With Illustration.)
La Petite Rosière...
London, Out of..
Los Angeles ..
Marianne....
“Ministerin' Meally."
Models, Chapters on..
Modern Lamia, A. From the French of Aimée Achaud..
Mountaineering in Colorado. (With Illustrations.)..
Newspaper-Men, Parisian...
New York..
" No Customers.” (With Illustration.).
Number of the Senses, The
Old Time, The...
Old-Time France.
Old Venice, A Bit of: The Story of Bianca Capello..
Parisian Types....
Penmarch and Is...
Physiognomy of the House, The..
POETRY:

A Charge...
Barn-Yard Eclogue....
Charlestown retaken, December 14, 1782..
Chiaro-Oscuro.....
Faith..
Glamour..
In a Swing..
Life is sweet...
Love, and be wise.
Morris Island
Old Story, An.
“Only the Brakeman.”
On the Border...
Perfection.....
Renunciation..
Six and Seventy-six.
Sorrow and Joy..
Sundown....
The Lark.....

Together and Alone.
Reminiscences
Reminiscences of Fifty Years...
Reverie about Roads, A ...
Rocking-Stone of Trégunc, The.
Sand, George, at Home...
San Francisco of the Desert.
Santa Barbara....
Servant-Question in Paris, The.
Shakespearean Study, A...
Siege of Berlin, The. From the French.
Six Hotels...
Society Lion, A...
Song-Composers, Four Great-Schubert, Schumann, Franz, Liszt.
Spare the Trees...
Stage-Ride in California, A..
Sufferings of Childhood, The...
Summer Pleasure-Places, Our. (Illustrated.).
Syria under the Last Five Turkish Sultans..
Through a Glass, darkly.
Tower of Percemont, The..
Troublesome Picture, A.
Tub and the Portent, The.....
Venice, A Bit of Old: The Story of Bianca Capello.
Wheat-Harvest, A California....
“Woodmansce Pastur', The"..
Zoology, Poetical..

HOWARD GLYNDON..

... 171 .EDGAR FAWCETT ..

84 .PAUL H. HAYNE..

223 EDGAR FAWCETT.

301 JOHN VANCE CHENEY

491 HOWARD GLYNDON... .C. M. HEWINS..

185 MARIE LE BARON..

431 .JOHN BOYLE O'REILLY..

274 ..CONSTANCE FENIMORE WOOLSON... 537 MARY E. BRADLEY.......

133 .CONSTANCE FENIMORE WOOLSON... 47 CONSTANCE FENIMORE WOOLSON... 282 MARIE LE BARON....

315 BARTON GREY.

401 W. C. RICHARDS. R. H. STODDARD.

376 MARY B. DODGE..

162 .R. H. STODDARD.

555 .C. A. S.....

327 JAMES E. FREEMAN. .. 275, 355, 531

214

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UNIVERSITY

CALIFORNIA

APPLETONS JOURNAL

OUT OF LONDON.'.

BY JULIAN HAWTHORNE.

IN

I.

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CHAPTER I.

of details, while straitening your general idea; the

map, on the other hand, sinks the particular in the LONDON.

general. The best plan, therefore, should be to cor

rect one by the other : retire to your map when the 7 HOEVER wishes to get an adequate idea of multiplicity of streets and houses overpowers you,

the Babylon of modern times should spread reverting to them so soon as your faculties have been open on the table a small, roughly-printed railway- braced and concentrated by the map. But be your map of England, and contemplate attentively that faculties what they may, I repeat that London will huge black blot, low down on the right-hand cor be too much for them; and it will be well if you ner; the nucleus whereunto all the crooked worldly recognize this truth before it is too late. ways of man seem to converge, and in which they The city lies low, as if-after such an unconscionend. I have been careful to specify railway-maps, able number of lazy centuries that portion of the because those published by the ordnance survey, crust of the earth on which she rests had begun to though they pretend to be accurate, never succeed in give way a little. Doubtless London is a compacter making that blot anything like big or black enough. world, and, when the present universe has dissolved, As for photographs and descriptions, they are good will remain to form the starting-point of a new one. for nothing. Nothing sets the fact of London's Or, otherwise, she might roll herself up in a ball, murky immensity so bluntly and memorably before and start off on a distinct orbit of her own. She the imagination as does a railway-map. You see Eng. certainly possesses stone and dirt enough, and vastly land in faint outline—a little, insignificant island, more than sufficient human material, to begin life as swallowed up in the vast sable continent of London. an independent planet of no mean pretensions. London is the only place on the face of the earth She is ready provided, too, with her own peculiar whose name can be supposed known to the man in atmosphere, which, though a good deal more earthy the moon; and it is the mark whereby the astrono- and tangible than the breathing-stuff heretofore esmers of other planets first established the fact that teemed desirable, may be admirably adapted to the this one is inhabited. Even the sun has heard about truth-seeking lungs of the materialistic philosophers London, and would like to make its acquaintance ; who would cast in their lot with her. In short, so but it has so happened that hardly once during the lively is my confidence in London's ability to mainlast two thousand years has he been able to get a tain herself, that I could sometimes almost wish she clear view of it. And yet the cockneys, true to would bid us farewell to-night, and launch forth on their well-known snobbish proclivities, always speak her voyage into infinite space without loss of another of him as of an acquaintance whom they daily ex- day. Fortunately or not, however, London is fast pect to meet.

moored to each and every town and city in the Next to studying the map, perhaps the best world by cables of gold and iron, which can be means of arriving at a conception of London would neither broken nor cast off ; and, wherever she goes, be to live there. But there are objections to this must we go with her. course. No man-unless he were in a balloon, on a And, on the whole, I am inclined to consider her remarkably clear day—ever saw so much as a twen- detention fortunate. She could get on without us, tieth part of London at a single view; and ordinary very likely ; but could we prosper, without her ? observers not the thousandth part of a twentieth. Deprived of London, we should be anomalous, flaMoreover, the very magnitude of the task of com- vorless, ordinary, and no better than any other prehension, when you are fairly face to face with it, world. London is dirty, ugly, vile of climate, gross incapacitates you for its accomplishment. You may of character ; but she is the seal set by time upon gaze and strain, but nobody can digest London ; this globe, and, were she removed, all our pith and whereas London may easily digest you, and, unless meaning would ooze out of us. We love her very you mount guard upon yourself pretty carefully, will much as we love humanity, because essentially she one day make away with your individuality. A is rather below than above our ideal, while nevertheresidence in London will improve your knowledge less she reflects pretty nearly all the solid elements

that make us what we are. She is universal-the Copyright by Julian Hawthorne.

world's city, not England's or any other country's. JULY, 1876.

VOL. 1.--I

II.

The world has made her, and she exists because she diness, self-possession, and energy. Not the ambimust, not because we choose she shall. She is like tious, restless, nervous energy of Broadway and Wall bread, homely and commonplace, and yet there is Street, but a more deliberate and steadier kind. nothing like her, and she does not pall on the pal- An American calls the English slow and stupid when ate, as do Paris and other highly-seasoned cates of he first comes into contact with them. But the cities. If it were desirable to multiply similes, English are not stupid in the long-run; they are none of which are quite true, though owning some cautious, obstinate, and wearisomely rational. truthful traits, I might compare her to ballast, which However, I am to avoid generalities, for the preskeeps the vessel upright so long as the vessel floats, ent at any rate : yet what is London itself but genbut would pull her under the water if a certain eralities? It is a satisfaction to be there for this reason divine buoyancy did not react against it. The if for no other that you feel you are got to a legitibuoyancy is not, of course, more essential than the mate stopping-place on the earth, whereof it may be ballast to the general welfare and prosperity. But said : There is nothing else of the kind so good ; sit enough of this unsubstantial persiflage about a sub- down, therefore, and enjoy it. To look upon a great ject so far from trifling or laughable. In order to unique thing, one of the seven wonders of the world, get out of London, we must pass through her. should be enough to give a man quiet sleep o' nights.

And so, perhaps, it would, were the best that is also

the best conceivable. But so soon as we have fairly A SENSE of the whole of London's immensity is digested the fact of London's peerlessness—there is somehow impressed upon each one of its component no help for it but we must begin reviling. This the fractions ; we are not deceived by the widest super- greatest city ?-yes, in mere brute extent of streets ; ficial variations in the aspect or condition of streets but in other respects how is it not insignificant ? and houses in or around the great metropolis ; this is | There is no great thing in it. St. Paul's might take a part of it, we say, being mystically conscious of a lodgings beneath the dome of St. Peter's. What subtile, informing spirit, which is unmistakably Lon is the National Gallery to a world which sees the don’s. In the same way do we assert of a great Vatican, the Pitti, the Uffizzi, and the Louvre ? writer, such as Shakespeare, for instance, that any Westminster Abbey is dwarfed by the Houses of passage taken from his works is immediately recog- Parliament, which are themselves mechanical, soulnizable as his and not another's; and, though we less, and disappointing. The British Museum covmay not find it easy to explain why this is so, we are ers many acres and departments, and is surrounded confident, nevertheless, that so it is. · The London with a fine gilded railing ; but Agassiz, in Camstamp and style are no less ingrained than the Shake- bridge, began a museum of natural history alone spearean ; and the traveler who should be set down which will be nearly as large as the whole of this by enchantment anywhere within the city limits colossus of Russell Square, and is arranged on a would be able at the first glance to affirm : “I am truer system. The Crystal Palace is a failure ; it not in Liverpool, or Glasgow, or Birmingham, or should extend from Sydenham to London Bridge, Manchester, but in London ; though which way St. and contain all countries and climates from the Paul's lies, or how far off it is, I know not.” For even equator to the pole. The Mansion House is shabby the cabmen do not know their way about London ; , and commonplace ; the Bank of England is but a and to ordinary visitors it is a Dædalian labyrinth vast strong box. Some of the West-End clubs are outside of the four or five principal thorough- good, or used to be so ; but no London cabman can fares.

drive you to the best hotel you ever put up at. Human beings are less susceptible than brick | There is not a theatre in the city fit to hold a footand mortar of local stamps and styles, and London light to “ Booth's" or the Boston “ Globe ;" nor an contains representatives of all nations; yet I think actor or actress worthy to appear outside the “ Bowa good observer, as he walks along the streets, would ery.” The Thames and Albert Embankments are be able to distinguish between the native Londoner of no use, and they look wretchedly uncomfortable and the transient visitor ; or, to put it more defensi- eleven months out of the year. London Bridge was bly, he might pick out the strangers. It would be broken down two hundred years ago, and has grown too much to say that any inhabitant of London could up again houseless and unpicturesque. The Tower be recognized as such (barring the cockney accent) is huddled away where nobody can find it; the Tunotherwhere than on his native pavements. But, meet- nel! Trafalgar Square is wickedly inadequate. ing him there, you feel that he belongs there. His What has Nelson done to be mast-headed in that gait and bearing show it, and something indefinable fashion ? was he not more a man than Cheops, whose in the expression of his face. Perhaps it is only coffin could not be squeezed into the square

endwise? that particular look that people wear when they are The Zoological Gardens are a yard for children to at home ; but a man who feels at home in London play in, with a few birds and beasts thrown in ; they must feel more intensely and immeasurably at home ought to cover Regent's Park, at least, and give than even a New Yorker on Manhattan Island, or every created animal such lodgings as should make it an Arab in the desert. The Londoner has a cool, fancy itself safe back at home. What are the streets, skeptical, bold eye, which can fix you with a stony even? Are Pall Mall and Piccadilly equal to the stare, or twinkle humorously, as occasion may de- boulevards of Paris ? Oxford Street, with all its mand. The rest of his physiognomy denotes stur- I continuations, is not so long as Broadway, nor so

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