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but so


wide, nor so imposing, nor straight at all. I am The physical and metap grossly understating the truth. The pavement prob- the earth must not again be heapea lem has not been solved. The underground rails together. It would not do to have l way is a nightmare. The telegraph-wires, instead of ment of London untried : it has showed being carried safely underneath the sidewalks, form humanity can be and cannot be. The e. a network overhead, and break down and cut peo are huge, but unprecise ; ordinary individu. ple's throats. Wherever we look, nothing is as it its wind knocked out of it. If you join in u should be, or even as it might be. The Albert throng, you exchange yourself for it; if you sta Memorial is an outrage. The mighty river Thames, yourself and refuse to be drawn in, the effort instead of being the Amazon, is a rivulet. Or turn, holding back distorts you into eccentricity: in shoi if you will, to the famous London press, and hear, you cannot keep your proper countenance in the not what I say, but what it says about itself. The neighborhood of such an overbearing loadstone ; Times is timeserving, snobbish, fallible. The Sat- and if you are not possessed of an exceptionally urday Review is stale, labored, insincere. The sturdy set of features, defant of any power that can Atheneum has become an asylum for decayed old be brought to bear upon them, you had better get ladies. The Spectator gushes. The grim Examiner out of the way altogether. It is true that great men starves in the effort to achieve impossibilities. Punch and geniuses seem to thrive on the rich diet and is dull and timid. The later-born newspapers are strong wine that upset their lesser brethren ; confused echoes of their elders, with an addition of few people come under their category that the genflippancy and vulgarity gratis. Really, it is high eral conclusion is not invalidated. time these complacent Englishmen should under But it is a fine illustration of great men—that destand that they and their belongings are anything light they have in plunging into the densest turmoil but perfec

of their fellow-creatures, and growing greater, Antæus-like, by the contact. And, conversely, you may

find your surest way to the capital of the world by But your Englishman, if he stops to hear you hunting up the bearers of mighty names. They carry out at all, replies with a grin of contempt, not at ondon-that is, the intensest, broadest, most varied himself, but at you. He knows all these things that life-in their hearts; and they naturally seek the you tell him, and more ; and they weigh not a seath-physical environment which best corresponds with er in the balance. There stands London, enormous, their spiritual furniture. Perhaps, therefore, we unequaled, renowned, and caring rather less for your should let London continue for the behoof of the criticisms than for one of her own fogs. She is a

best men.

Instead of the greatest good of the greatsovereign who can afford to wear indifferent gar est number, we ought to consider the gratification of ments, and otherwise do what she pleases. She the few foremost. Yet our concern for them is fussy keeps house for a formidable fraction of the human and officious. That they can thrive in the imperial race, and all the giants of modern history have lived city is proof that they can do without her. They are in her or visited her, and confessed her majesty and free and independent, if anybody is; and if the sense magnetism. Her overgrown bulk does not much of mankind condemns London as a dangerous luxury concern her-she accounts that but a subordinate for the race at large, they will lend their aid to overform of greatness: for she is big with the past ; turn her. despite her materialism, it is her immaterial part that imports. A bit of pavement on which Shake. speare has trod, a post which Johnson has touched, In fact, London has already become a sort of a tavern in which Moore has sung songs, a chamber white elephant, putting its possessors to their wits' in which Raleigh has been confined, a suburb where end. The irregularity and amazement of its streets Bacon lived-there is no pooh-poohing such digni- infinitely exaggerate the virtual area of the city, ties as these. London's body is great only because and it was a lucky day for postmen that saw inventher spirit is greater. The thing did not happen disa ed the contrivance of dividing up the unwieldy muconnectedly and by accident. Familiarity with her nicipal carcass into fore-quarter, hind-quarter, rib, does not breed contempt; we learn that her paving- and sirloin, clumsy and arbitrary though the division stones are not of gold, but meanwhile we have And the chief aim of Londoners is, having stumbled upon something richer and better. Her got the biggest town in the world, to make it as shortcomings seem but to enhance her incorrigible practically small again as possible. I do not refer worth. Chicago and St. Louis may by-and-by come merely to their underground railways, their cabs, to measure miles with her, and compare buildings, 'buses, and tramways, their ferry-boats, messengers, and methods of transit, and parks ; but the less they and telegraphs, but to the tendency and reason of say about any other kind of competition the better. all their ways of living. The London of the dwellThe world is twice as large and valuable since Lon. ers in Cheapside and Lombard Street is a place of don came into it: there has never before been such very narrow dimensions; many an American village a city, and perhaps it is well to pray that there may is larger. The crowd with and past which they dainever be such another ; for, thougb this splendor of ly hurry to their business is but part of the ordinary concentration is so powerful and so fascinating, the furniture of the streets—they never think of moralopposite policy seems destined to obtain in time to lizing about it. Their mind holds the idea of their






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ab or 'bus, of their office, of their restaurant, of though doubtless they have often lain immediately

their club, and that is all, so far as London is con on the right and left of my line of march. Every The 'cerned. Add the houses at which they dine out district, every block of houses, has a distinct set of

once a week or month, and there remains nothing. features and twang of its own, though all, as has bre

Mayfair is equally limited within itself. They ride been said, are mystically subordinate to the whole.

in the Row, they stare out of Pall Mall windows, | London will be the last country to be fully explored ; al

they show themselves at one another's parties, and regions will remain unknown there long after South at the theatre, the shops in Regent and Bond Streets. Africa has become an island, and the north - pole Of Pentonville and Whitechapel they know nothing. been covered ten feet high with the names of tourThere are London clique and style, as pronounced ists. A family might take up their abode there, and and provincial as any of Beacon Street or Pumpkin- each member of it, for generation after generation, ville. The typical cockney is not a great but a small take a new walk every day, and at the end of a hun

The very pressure of the immensities around dred years discover that their knowledge of the
him crams him into a certain narrow groove, whence place was really very limited.
to budge would be explosion. I cannot walk Lon I always respect an actor who has in him great-
don streets in a turban, or in a long-tailed blue coat ness enough to deliver his best passages with an
with brass buttons, without exciting general remark, unpremeditated air-not as if they had already be-
and the hostility of the police. This is not what we come part of the language. So in London, I like to
would expect; a Kaffre naked from the Zambezi happen upon spots, tucked away amid the most un-
should be able to dine at the Atheneum and dawdle promising surroundings, which are yet so famous in
in the Park without causing so much as a butcher's the world's history that it seems a marvel they were
boy to turn his head. London, from this point of not framed in gold and hung up conspicuously in the
view, is a petty affair enough ; a set of baby features City-Hall. What wealth, we say, must that be which
imbedded in broad acres of meaningless flesh. It can afford to keep such a jewel as this in the back-
does not all mean one thing; if you pick it up it ground! If ever I set up a museum of curiosities,
will fall in twenty pieces. It is cosmopolitan on the one of the first things I shall secure for it will be a
surface, but only so. It is not an immeasurable unit, London city 'bus, incrusted over with all these in-
with St. Paul's for a centre, as it is made out to be valuable names. How composedly that driver whips
in the title-picture of the Illustrated London News. up his horses ; and mark the nonchalant manner
It is a bundle of sticks, not a single giant bole. Were | in which the conductor shouts out those immortal
it otherwise, what a Tree Yggdrasil it would be ! words! They would be great men indeed were they
whose terrible roots would drain all the sap out of anything but pitiably ignorant of their advantages.
the rest of the world in another generation. But, I am still in doubt, however, whether this curi-
by a wise decree of Providence, giants of body have osity about historic spots be not morbid rather than
seldom been giants of soul, and London does not legitimate. Is it not somewhat akin to the lacka-
prove the rule by being the exception to it. The daisical sentiment which prompts us to weep over
Tower of Babel could ascend only so far, and Lon- the tombs of our friends ? Our friends are not in
don, spread how much it will, reached long ago the the tomb, neither are the mighty men of yore in these
limits of its greatness. Perhaps it was formerly old haunts of theirs ; therefore, what are we after
greater than now, both comparatively-because there there? I suspect the truth to be, that we love such
are other giants abroad in these days; and intrinsi- places because we feel in a large sense at home in
cally-because the increase of its skirts has dimin- them. The best part of us lives in great men, wheth-
ished its central vitality. Yet, after all subtractions er past or present; and when we stand where they
and detractions, there stands London, unrivaled, in- have stood, or look at things with which they were
conceivable, invincible. It is as an anvil, on which familiar, we feel our roots in the world strengthen
all men may hammer out their reflections without and our sympathy with the human race somehow
fear of cracking it.

enlarged. Those unfortunate people whose lot it
has been to travel much, and more or less to lose the

power of connecting the idea of home with the That same amazing street - arrangement just scenes of childhood, have reason to be thankful for alluded to makes London indefinitely more attrac- Shakespeare's cottage at Stratford, for Goethe's house tive to me, and the attraction is of a kind that wears at Weimar, for Martin Luther's ink-stained chambetter than has been the case with far fairer and ber, and for many a spot in the neighborhood of more classic cities. She is a kind of second nature ; Temple Bar. Here is your home, poor traveler ; the laws of her being are as intricate as those of the here you were builded better than you knew; here world, perhaps more so. Were she laid out in Ameri were brooded the thoughts and seen the visions of can parallelograms or Parisian boulevards, I should the immortal youth of your genius. For are they be captivated for a time, but should as soon think not your visions and your thoughts, since mankind of falling definitely in love with her as of marrying are one, and the worthiest of us but the fullest and a statue instead of a variable woman of flesh and keenest perception and utterance of the lesser ? blood. I have been acquainted with London, off In thus venturing to force my Pegasus to tranand on, for four or five years, but there are ten thou- scend for a moment his customary safe and respectsand places in it of which I have not even heard, able jog-trot, I am only bringing him the more



, Totowe pause yet a moment, however, to buy a copy

speedily toward a certain cozy and ancient chop- Old Cock. It belongs, I should say, to the upper house, where I can invite the reader to some solid middle class of taverns, or perhaps it ranks still English refreshment, and where, perhaps, we may higher; it is difficult to gauge it by our American conclude our introductory moralizings upon the ab- standards. At all events, the Old Cock pretends to solute London quite as comfortably as elsewhere. a good wine cellar, and refuses to permit its paFor it is probably needless to observe that any at trons a pipe of tobacco after their beer, as is the tempt to describe in detail, or even to summarize custom at other outwardly similar establishments. what are called the chief points of interest in Lon- Probably it takes pride in concealing aristocratic don, is farthest both from my purpose and my desire. qualities beneath a studiedly sober suit of feathers. The reader, if he be also a traveler, has seen them Not that I am aware of having met any peers of all for himself ; or, if he be but a reader pure and the realm here; the customers seem generally to simple, then he is weary of perusing what thousands belong to the prosperous mercantile class. It has of more ambitious and conscientious pens than mine not been my fortune, either, to happen upon an have already writ concerning them. I mean to con- eccentric knot of wits and humorists as I have once fine myself, both here and hereafter, to the veri or twice done at sequestered chop-houses not far est trifles, and to the legitimate vague and general from this, where the cutty-pipe was allowed. But I reflections thence derived. It is not within my in- take the Old Cock, such as it is, to be a very fair structions to give a picture of the London or Eng- example of London houses of its class, as well as an land of to-day, whether in its physical, historical, agreeable sort of place intrinsically; enter we, thereliterary, or social aspect. As for London, I shall fore, without more ado. take leave of it very shortly, and not visit it again, save for the briefest glimpses. Once out of the city, of the Echo for a halfpenny from the small, vociferI shall cast my lines in a somewhat out-of-the-way ous newsboy, who, if it be about four o'clock in the spot, and direct my attention mainly to my immedi- afternoon, as it ought to be to insure a quiet dinner ate surroundings, many of which, perhaps, would and elbow-room, is sure to be on stand at the doorprove more or less of a novelty even to some Eng- post, with the latest edition of that blushing journal lishmenat least, from my point of view. Let those under his arm. Passing down a long, narrow paswho are dissatisfied with this outlook go to M. sage-way, and through some folding-doors, we find Taine, or where they will. They can meet with ourselves in a lengthy but otherwise contracted apartnothing to detain them here, unless it be the pros- ment, probably the result of throwing three or four pect of something to be dissatisfied about.

small square rooms into one. The ceiling is low, the wainscot high, dark, and polished, and the little boxes

or incipient rooms which line the sides of the main PASSING from St. Paul's down Ludgate Hill, and room like the roe of a fish are of the same deepalong ugly, populous Fleet Street, we presently come tinted wood. I took it for granted, on my first inin sight of Temple Bar, which, having grown weak troduction here, that the wood was oak, blackened in the legs from so long bestriding this famous thor- by time, and the imm norial rubbings of shoulders, oughfare, is now supported amidships by a massive elbows, and hands. But one day I found to my surwooden crutch, and further protected by a couple of prise that it is all fine, solid mahogany. I was not policemen, who mount guard on each side of it, and altogether pleased with my discovery ; but it is a trait enforce the warning to all vehicles to proceed at of the English to like the sort of richness which is a snail's pace. Progress, in the shape of the new apparent only at a second or third glance, or at an courts of justice, has partly undermined this time- interior view. They delight so much in ostentation, honored structure; and it has been gravely mooted that they are ostentatious in concealing it. The by the city fathers whether they should pluck it up palaces in May Fair are outwardly dingy and featfrom its historic site and set it down somewhere ureless to the last degree ; built of the ugliest yelelse, where it might retain its traditional renown low-black bricks, and on the plainest horizontals and without interfering with the traffic of the street. perpendiculars. But inside they tell a different Alas! a stone is but a stone when it is a corner story; they are rather sepulchred whitenesses than stone no longer; and who would care for Temple whited sepulchres. No doubt the latter form of deBar after it has ceased to be the bar of the Temple? ception is more unpleasant than the former ; but As a practical man, I think it ought to come down; perhaps truth and consistency throughout might be as a sentimentalist, I would rather see all London better than either. come down first; but the practical sentimentality of The floor of the Old Cock is sanded or sawdusted. taking it down here and putting it up again there is This arrangement inspires a delightfully homelike beyond me, and will, I believe, prove too much for feeling; it is at once so cleanly and so primitive, the gravity even of the city fathers.

inviting you to take your ease, and yet far removed We make these reflections standing before an

from savagery.

Nothing can surpass sawdusted unobtrusive doorway less than a hundred feet from floors for comfort and wholesome simplicity. The the triple archway of the Bar. It is narrow and de- human race would be improved by living upon them void of ornament, and might easily be passed unno for a generation ; they laugh to scorn all effeminate ticed. Above it stands a rusty, gilded cock, in the luxury and gaudiness, but never discountenance act of crowing; and the name of the tavern is the what is strong, efficient, and useful. They call up


memories of old-fashioned spinning-jennies, high- the other hand the port is not bad, and I am in the backed chairs, and antique costumes and customs. habit of calling for a sentimental pint thereof occaWaxed and polished floors of inlaid woods, which sionally. It forms a pleasant bond of union beare beginning to take the place of carpets, are tween the chop or steak and the Stilton cheese. scarcely less a vanity than they, although certainly All these things are brought from out a darksome prettier and cleaner. As for marble, it belongs to doorway at the end of the apartment, beyond which paganism, and quite another form of civilization I presume the kitchen lies, though I never explored than ours.

it. In some restaurants the kitchen is partitioned The head-waiter, who paces forever backward off from the dining-room by glass, or even occupies and forward between the rows of boxes, a refined, the lower end of it without any partition ; a huge spare, elderly personage in full dress, assigns us an fire of glowing coals fills the broad grate, and the attendant, who brings us a pewter mug of ale on a fat cook broils our dinner before our eyes on a silver small, round, china-bottomed holder, having a pict- gridiron. Such a plan is probably agreeable to most ure of the Old Cock imprinted upon it: and then people of healthy stomachs, who thus doubly enjoy goes off to order our chop or steak. What chops the feast ; but squeamish eaters must be cautious. these are ! I once made the mistake of ordering The cook, of course, should be a person of refined two, on the strength of an exceptional appetite ; tact; not like those skillful but terrible Frenchmen, after finishing the first I looked at the second ; it who take nameless liberties with saucepans, in order was the better of the two; but, so far as I am con to see whether they are hot enough. Perhaps we cerned, it remains untasted to this day.

ought to eat nothing which we would be afraid to I know not whether this be the same Cock cele see cooked ; but how many a seeming-innocent deli. brated by Mr. Will Waterproof, in that lyrical mono-cacy would that rule deduct from our bills-of-fare ! logue of his; the head-waiter is not plump ; but on






the lives of both. Little could they suppose how

the few words spoken, the careless look and smile, A CUP OF COLD WATER.

nay, even the commonplace outward surroundings,

would be by after-events so burned in upon their MONG the many duties recognized by the an- minds as never in years to come to be forgotten. It

cients I am not aware that there was one of was, as we in our blindness should phrase it, a meetthe name, or possessed of the attributes, of what ing of the purest chance : but on that chance meetwe call Chance. Destiny they acknowledged; buting hung afterward the life of one and the life's hapDestiny was altogether a different thing. Destiny piness of the other. watched over the lives of men, supplied their mo It was, as has been said, July, and one of the hot. tives, directed their actions, and either perfected or test and most fervid days of that hot and fervid frustrated their designs. Destiny allowed nothing month. The earth lay parching and panting under hap-hazard, but either for good or for evil, and, un the caresses of her fierce lover the sun; there was der the agency of her handmaidens the Fates, influ- no coolness in the strong south breeze that rustled enced all that came to pass.

the leaves and bowed the fields of waving grain; But we in these days are so far in advance of the the crisp curl and sparkle of the blue waters of ancients that we refuse to place trust in the influence the lake dazzled but did not resresh; there was of Destiny any longer. We have no longer the con no tender haze nor softness in the bright noon air fidence or the credulity to believe that our affairs in which every object stood out clear, distinct, and are under other guidance than our own. Whether plain ; the roads stretched pitilessly white and dusty we have improved on the old faith is another matter, and wearisome before the traveler ; the shadows since when—as is often the case-we are compelled had retreated to the roots of the trees, as though to admit that we cannot always manage our concerns they felt themselves out of place in so glaring a for the best, those who have not sufficient piety to scene, and waited for their turn by-and-by, leaving allow the direction of one overruling Power deify the sun to have it all his own way for the present. Chance. Coincidences we still confess to some belief Animal life also felt the influence of the atmosphere. in; presentiment we do not altogether deny the ex The hum of the grasshopper and the ceaseless chirp istence of; and, whatever we cannot conveniently of the cricket filled the air, but the birds were almost account for under either of these two heads, we at silent ; listless cattle had ceased to feed, and tried to tribute to Chance; but a childlike faith we leave to find forgetfulness of heat and insects in sleep ; only children, and to those past times when we, in our man, whose toil is never-ending, pursued his labor present wisdom, deem the world also to have been as he best could under the burning sun, fulfilling in its childhood.

literally the doom pronounced on Adam. So much by way of preface. Now to begin. In the wood-path of which I have spoken, it was

On the 14th of July, in a year which it is not something better, though even here the sun's vertical necessary particularly to specify, two persons met in rays left sacred but few spots. But the path was a narrow wood-path, face to face. Up to that mo- grassy, and the heavy summer foliage hung ripe on ment utter strangers to each other-parting as little either hand, and curves and sharp angles in the road known as they had met-either little guessed the in cast some shadows here and there. It was only a fluence that single point of contact would have upon | foot-track through coppices of underbrush and dense


young growth of bushes and tall weeds, and seldom with a mixture of carelessness and confusion ; but used except, as now by the man, as a short-cut from the carelessness was very evidently simulated, while station to station, and, as by the girl, as a road in the the confusion was perceptibly real. fruit-season to those places where grew the spon “You're too young," said the man, looking at taneous gifts of the earth.

her attentively. 'If you'd take my advice—but you What could have induced any man to walk on won't take it, so I'll keep it by me for the next one this melting morning across the ridges from White that will. What's the use of talking to girls like chester to Bleekmans, which it afterward appeared you? Haven't I done it before, and didn't I do it was his destination, is a mystery which must ever re in vain ?" He grew suddenly grave, drew a deep main unsolved. True, the short distance is but five sigh, and was silent. miles, while round by the road it is eleven, owing to " 'Tain't good," said the girl, as he took the pail the intervening marsh only passable on foot, and again and raised it to his mouth for a second draught. scarcely even so; but, when we consider how much "It's only swale-water, but as it was pretty clear I more prone is human nature to sacrifice time to con- took some for fear I'd be dry before I got home. venience than comfort to time, we can only fall back It's quite a little piece to walk." on the theory that Chance (unless we change our “Been berrying ?" And he looked at some red phraseology and devoutly say the hand of Provi- stains on her fingers. dence) had directed our traveler on this occasion to “ Yes, but berries is few and scattering this year. the use of his own limbs. He had, however, more I started out to look for some, but I got none worth than repented of his rash resolve before half the dis- while. Don't you know blood from berry-juice ? tance was passed ; and while waiting for breath, See here! what a scratch I got as I was climbing a seated on a prostrate tree at one of the shady curves fence." aforesaid, he was startled by the sudden apparition She turned back her sleeve and showed a deep of the girl.

mark from which the blood still oozed a little ; and Only by the suddenness of her appearance in he now noticed that it had dripped and left broad that unfrequented place, for in herself there was blotches down the side of her faded light cotton nothing terrible. A fair, fresh girl of seventeen or dress. “Why, did that small scratch bleed all eighteen, with bright cheeks, smiling lips and eyes, that?” he asked. and rippling auburn hair, is not an alarming object, “And more too, till I washed it off in the even to a pursy man of more than middle age, with swale." grizzled locks and lines that tell of hard experience “ You haven't walked from Low's swale this on his weather-beaten face. So, after the first in- morning ?” voluntary exclamation, he looked with a pleased ex "I guess no one carried me either there or back. pression at the bright young vision that stood before But what do you know about Low's swale? You're him.

a stranger in these parts, ain't you?” I say stood, for at the sound of his voice she “I wasn't always, if I am now. I used to know stopped. Fortunately for her, something even more the place well enough, and that's why I undertook attractive than her beauty arrested his attention as to walk across, instead of going round, as I ought. she passed him. Her pretty face might have pleased But either the road is longer than it was, or else my him for a moment, received a kindly nod, gone by, legs were younger then than they are now." and been forgotten ; but what was of far more im The girl laughed. portance in his sight was a tin pail hanging on her "Well, it's no longer now to go on than to go arm, in the bottom of which some water splashed back," she said. “I wonder what time it is ?-it about with a delicious gurgling sound.

must be near noon." “ Hold on!” he said, after giving her "good As she spoke the sound of a hoarse whistle came day.” “Give us a drink if you have it to spare. on the breeze to their ears. I'm pretty nigh choked.”

“ That's the eastern express coming into White“'Tis warm, ain't it?" the girl said, handing chester ; it's a quarter to twelve.”. him the pail and taking off a pink sun-bonnet to Well, I must go on," said the traveler, slowly fan her pinker face; and he noticed as she did so rising. “And when you catch me walking across that she drew carefully back into the shade of the this confounded ridge again you may tell me of it, bushes.

that's all. Much obliged for the water.” And he “ You're careful of your skin, I reckon," he re

went his way. marked, with a laugh, looking at the delicate bloom Quite welcome,” was the stereotyped answer; which even that day's heat had scarcely marred. and the girl took her seat on the log he had just va" And I don't know but what you're right to be so. cated, and watched the retreating figure out of sight. How old are you?".

_“I wonder who he is ?" she thought. “I wish I'd Eighteen next week.”

found out his name. But what matter? I'll never " I thought about that. I'd a child once of that see him again." age, and she didn't look very unlike you either. Got As the girl sat there in the bloom of young beaua beau ?” he added, somewhat suddenly.

ty and the flush of a happiness long strange to her, It seemed so absolutely certain that a girl with the recollection of the unknown traveler soon passed such a face must possess one, if not more than one, from her mind. Dreaming of happy days soon to of those appendages, and take them as a matter of come, the events of the present moment were little course, that he rather wondered at the scarlet flush to her; in visions of a youth and beauty like her which overspread her face and neck at his very com own she forgot the uninteresting age and ugliness monplace joke ; and, instead of the laughing an from which she had just parted ; and foresaw not swer he expected, she stammered something quite that the time was near at hand when all the world's inaudible.

wealth, and almost all earthly hopes, would be freely “I didn't mean to offend you,” he said. “I'm bartered for the sight of that weather-beaten face old enough to be your grandfather, so you needn't and grizzled hair. mind what I say. Going to be married, perhaps?"

"Perhaps—when my time comes," said the girl,

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