Crossing over the Caicus by a bridge just outside the town, we entered upon the district formerly known under the name of Æolia, comprised between that river and the Hermus. The route to Menimen crosses a wild common surrounded by hills; and, passing the tumuli visible from the acropolis, pursues a southwesterly direction towards the blue mountains of Mitylene, till at no great distance it reaches the coast. A village entirely deserted in the midst of a woody, and what might become a fertile, country stands on the left; while on the right lies the gulf of Sanderli, on whose shores once rose the powerful state of Cumæ, the birthplace of Hesiod and Ephorus. Not far hence the Caicus, close to the embouchure of which was the ancient Elæa, empties itself into the Archipelago.

It was dark when we reached Kleesakooee (The village of the church) after a ride of four hours from Pergamus. The aga, though courteous in his expressions, provided us with no other accommodation than the room of the munziljee, or postmaster, adjoining the stable where he and his sooreejees slept. One part of it was piled up with saddles. By the hearth a beggar in rags, apparently half-tipsy or halffoolish, was sitting with a native traveller just

MENZILJEE'S HUT.

139

arrived from Constantinople: there was no lamp, and they blew the embers into a flame to catch a glimpse of our faces as we entered. Unfortunately, the same light served to show us the full wretchedness of the hovel in which we were doomed to pass the night. It had no window, and the addition to our numbers of several dirty sooreejees, full of vermin from the stable, completed our discomfort. Our host set before us a dish of pilau, followed by another of macaroni, in which all were expected to dip their fingers and eat sans cérémonie; these were accompanied by a flat doughy kind of bread, with sherbet, or honeywater; and the meal concluded with coffee. The night passed rather in expectation of morning than in sleep; and more than two hours before sunrise we were again on our horses.

From Kleesakooee the road skirts the seashore for some miles, and passes a little to the west of Giuzel-Hissar. Nearly due east of this town rises a hill, at whose foot once stood the ancient Phocæa; and beyond appears Karabooroon,* one of the headlands of the gulf of Smyrna. The distance to Menimen is seven hours, the last four of which are over (Karah booroon), signifies black nose. The ancient name was very similar, "Aкpa Méλaiva, Black point.

140

ÆOLIA AND IONIA.

high mountains, above whose summits eagles were flying with a velocity, compared with which

"The tempest itself lags behind.” *

Descending into the plain, we passed several villages; and, on the coast, the supposed site of Leuce, near to which Aristonicus, the pretender to the crown of Pergamus, was defeated by the Roman consul Crassus.

The road crosses the Hermus about half an hour from Menimen, the supposed representative of the ancient Temnus, standing just beyond the boundary of Eolia and within the precincts of Ionia. Menimen is first indicated by a row of windmills on a neighbouring eminence; it contains nothing of particular interest, and we were glad to leave it as soon as possible on account of its notorious insalubrity and the rain which had just set in. Hence to the Scala, or landing-place on the gulf of Smyrna, where we proposed to take a boat, is a ride of three hours; and the row occupies an hour and a half, or rather more. The posthorses were soon exchanged and we started; but we had not proceeded very far across a

* It is well known that wind seldom moves with a speed exceeding thirty miles an hour; whereas eagles are said to fly at the rate of eighty miles an hour.

RETURN TO SMYRNA.

141

wild waste before the sooreejee, who had lagged behind, called to us to stop. As we did not comply with his request, he galloped after us and, furiously brandishing a sword, threatened to cut us down. At the same time another Turk on horseback overtook us and presented his carbine. We were armed, and drew our pistols, which were purposely uncharged, kept rather for show than use. The display of arms checked our assailants, who loaded us with much noisy abuse, but at length suffered us to proceed without injury; and, late at night, we again reached our quarters at Smyrna.

CHAPTER XXI.

THE WESTERN COAST OF ASIA MINOR AND ISLANDS OF THE ARCHIPELAGO.

Greek vessel.- Passengers.- Description of cabin. - Arab servant. Provisions.-Leave Smyrna.-Gulf.-Vourla.— Clazomene. The Hermus.- Storm.- Port of Foges.Town.-Excavation.-Cyclades and Sporades.-Etymology of names. Scio.-Town.-Exports.-Gum mastic.—Costume. - Orange and lemon groves. Gardens of Hesperides.- Tchesmé.-Ruins of Erythræ.-Teos.-Colophon and Claros. Samos.- Storm.-Isle of Fourni.-Pirates. Expected attack. - View. Patmos. Anecdote.Greek desire for instruction. - Calm. - Carelessness and ignorance of sailors. Storm. Port of Gumishlu. Bargylia. Temple of Diana. Melasso. - Ancient city. -Mindus.- Greek ignorance. - Boodroom. — Halicarnassus. Scenery.- Herodotus.- Ruins. Grapes.- Beasts of prey. Scorpions.- Amusing scenes on board.-Three capes. Ship aground. - Calamino.-Sponge fishery.Cos.- Fort.-Cape Crio.- Ruins of Cnidus.- Islands.— Divers of Nisari and Syme.. Greek convent. - Water

spout. Rhodes.- Port. ·

Castle of the knights of St.

John.- Colossus. - Altars of Apollo.- Mussulman prophecy." Strada dei Cavalieri."-Church.- Population. -Costume.