General aspect of Moldavia.-Its politics, fertility and population.

--Quarantine on Russian frontier.- Preparations for departure.-

Carriage.--Horses and tackle.-Driver.—Leave Galatz.-Village

of Formosica.—Peasant's hut. — Discomforts of night.-Journey

resumed.–Villages.-Wells.—Gipsies.- The Pruth.–First view

of Russian territory.-Wines.—Tobacco and wild asparagus.-

Wodeni.- Ancient and modern modes of wearing hair.–Faltsi.--

Greek church.--Country.- Party benighted.-Strength and food

of horses. Porte de Liova. - Cry of Russian guard.—Hut-

Miseries of night. ---Jews.-Apply for admission to quarantine.-

Difficulties about passport.-Renewed application. Fresh obsta-

cles.—Objection of Russia to foreigners.--Inventory of goods. ---

Cross the Pruth.

p. 201-225.

CHAPTER VIII.

BESSARABIA.

FROM LIOVA TO KISHNAU

Enter Bessarabia.- Form of admission into quarantine.--Exami-

nation of baggage.—Room and furniture.—Guardian.-Insects.-

Visits of doctor.-Difficulties.-Jew traitcur.-Interrogations.-

List of books.— Final examination and oath.-Leave quarantine.

-Ordered to Kishnau. — Character and rank of officers of qua-

rantine.-Douane.-Portmanteau with books sealed.-Doctor.-

Niemtevich.–Polish Jews.-Description of vehicle.-Quit Liova.

-Scenery.–Verst-posts. — Conquest of Bessarabia.- Habits of

people affected by government.—Driver. -Sarasicca.- Peasant's

hut.-Wild scenery.-Autumnal tints. -Eagles.- Indian vultures.

- View of Kishnau.-Roman walls.- Interior of town.-Hotel.-

Beds. - Visits to governor. — Gipsies. Business transacted by

Jews.Hebrew soldiers.-Anecdote.

p. 226-244.

CHAPTER IX.

NEW RUSSIA.

FROM KISHNAU TO ODESSA.

Leave Kishnau.-Desolate country.-Funereal stones.-Travel-

ling in Russia.-Murder of courier. - Sicara.– Frogs.-Macro-

cremnii Montes. — Bender. – Refuge of Charles XII. - The

Daiester-Enter New Russia. — Taraspol. --- Calmuk Tartars.-

Scenery.--Eagles.-Ancient monuments.—Thibetian relic.—Ger-

man colonists.-Villages.-Manheim.- Fossil bones.—Mirage.-

Illustration of Scripture.-Odessa - Its name and origin.--- Pre-

sent state.- Hotels.--Scarcity of water.-Condition of streets.-

Necessity for a carriage.-Droshki.-Coachmen.–Censorship of

press.-English consul.-Cure of hydrophobia.-Lutheran minis-

ter. Count Woronzow.- Contrast of manners in North and

South Russia.—Lemon with tea.-Russian tea.-Climate.- Mitel.

-Terrible effects.-Sudden frost.–Salubrity of Odessa.- Plague.

-Locusts.- Morals.-Theatricals.-Language of church service.

-Prohibition of missionaries.-Bible Society.— Russian church.

- Pastors and their flocks. — Politics. — Closing Dardanelles.-

Russian influence. — Anecdotes.

- Poland's wrongs.

Exiles.-

Rupture of marriage tie.-Russian wives.—Polish ladies.-Anec-

dotes.— Indignities suffered by Poles. — Bulgarian emigrants. -

Feudal system. — Serfs and seigneurs. — Abrok. Services re-

quired. — Power of masters. Anecdote. Moral effects of

slavery.

p. 245--280.

-

-

CHAPTER X.

THE CRIMEA.

FROM ODESSA TO BAGTCHESERAI.

Embark for Crimea. - Ancient and modern names of Black

Sea.-Monastery of St. George.-Balaclava.-Aiabooroon. Cliffs.

-Count Woron zow.- Increased value of land.-Villages.-Ma-

dame Narischkine.- Fruits.-Wines.- Prince Galitzin.-Princess

Metchersky. - Country seats. — Oreanda. Land at Yalta. -

Horses. — Saddles. — Aloupka. – Estate of count Woronzow.

Diosperos lotus.—Mountain ash.-House and grounds.–Village of

Kokoz.- Road.-Kindness of Tartars.--Costumes.-Shaven heads.

-Houses.—Party benighted. - Storm. – Bagtcheserai. — Tartar

privileges.-Etymology of Don Cossacks. - Languages compared.

-Bazaar.- Sheep. — Dromedaries. - Blacksmiths. — Schools.

Russian conquest.–Palace of Tartar khang. — Gardens. — Apart-

ments.—Hall of audience.-Frescoes.-Fountain court. —- Royal

private mosque.-Déwan.-Harem. - Garden and tower.-Mau-

soleum.-Royal cemetery.—Coffins. – Grand mosque.—Moham-

medan service.-Missionaries ejected.-Early hours.-Fulfilment

of prophecy. - Gipsies. — Ruins of old town.- Monastery of As-

sumption.— Yearly festival.-Asses laden with water. - Difficult

ascent.-Fortress of Joofud Kalah.-Houses. Market-place.-

Synagogues.-Karaite Jews.—Hatred of Rabbinists —Origin.-

Doctrines.—Veneration for Scripture. Morals.-Civil laws.

History.- Manuscripts.-School.–Valley of Jehoshaphat.-Return

to Bagtcheserai.

p. 281–317.

CHAPTER XI.

THE CRIMEA.

FROM BAGTCHESERAI, BY THE HERACLEOTIC

CHERSONESUS, TO ODESSA.

Leave Bagtcheserai.- Tartar village of Dosis.--Mausoleums.-

Castle of Mankup. — Dewankooee. Carts.--Burial-grounds.-

Broochkooee.-Scenery.-- Ferry.-Old Jew.-Sebastopol.-- Allot-

ments of land.-Reflections on a settlement in the Crimea.--Bay.

-Ancient Ctenus.- Its situation.—Tortoises and fish.- Aqueduct.

- Fortress and caves of Inkerman.- Chapels in rock. — Hiding

places of early Christians.--Harbour.-Shipping and fortifications.

- Site of ancient Chersonesus.—Its foundation and history.--He-

racleotic and Taurica Chersonesus.- Genoese buildings.- Pagan

temples and Christian churches.-Extensive ruins. - Flowers and

insects. — Anecdote.- Natural magic.— Circular stone basins.-

Coins. — Rings for shipping on tops of mountains. — Geological

conjectures.-Monastery of St. George.— Temple of Diana.-Me-

tropolitan.-Greek service.- Valley of Balaclava.-Greek inhabi-

tants. - Variety of nations in Crimea. Harbour of Balaclava.-

Ancient fortress.- Name derived from Genoese.—Fish.-Sea-ser-

vant. - Town paved with marble.- Valley of Baidah.–Tartar

cottage.-Repast.-- Ablutions. — Mountains of Ayila. — Majestic

scenery.

“ Devil's stairs.” — Descent. - Village destroyed. --

Houses.-Mode of stacking hay.—Richness of soil.-Spina Christi.

--Tree-frog - Eagles.---Lizards.- Return to Aloupka.-Yalta.-

Massandra.-Count Woronzow's exertions in Crimea.-Anecdote.

---Public garden at Nikita.-Aidaniel.— Its situation.-View.-

Bear's mountain.-Return to Odessa.

p. 318-313.

CHAPTER XII.

TURKEY IN EUROPE.

CONSTANTINOPLE.

Embark at Odessa for Constantinople.—Russian pilgrims.— Isle

of Serpents.- Markalia.–Varna.--Symplegades.- Thracian Bos-

phorus.-Scenery.-- First view of Constantinople.-Seraglio Point.

- Ships.-Caiques. — Costumes. — Disembarkation.—Anecdote.-

Plague dreaded by Franks.- Recklessness of Turks.— Towers of

Galata and Seraskier.-View from summit of latter.—Mosques.-

Sea of Marmora.- Mount Olympus.-Princes' islands.- Seraglio.

- Scutari and Kadikooee.-“ Sweet waters."-Khans.-Cemete-

ries.- Galata.— Topkhanah. — Pera.—Golden Horn. — Sultan's

caique. Mosque of Soliman.-Moslim worship.—St. Sophia's.-

Jeni Jami.—Ayoob.—Mausoleums.-Compared with those of Agra

and Delhi.—Sarcophagus of Constantine.—Origin of Turkish cres-

cent.-Palace of Constantine.--Atmeidan.— Belisarius.—Mosque

of Achmet. — Egyptian obelisk.- Ancient pillar from Rhodes.--

Delphic brass column.—Maiden's pillars. — Cisterns.-Been bir

deerek.—Iplikjee boodrumee.—Yerek batan serai.-Aqueduct.

Walls of Constantinople.-Seven Towers.-Golden gate.--Bloody

well. — Gates of city. — Tomb of Ali pasha. — Breach entered

by Mohammed II. — Palace of Belisarius. — Fanar. Etmei-

dan.

p. 344–379.

CHAPTER XIII.

TURKEY AND THE TURKS.

Turkish vehicles - Ladies.—Slave market.-Bedlam.-Origin

of name. — Cemeteries. — Tombstones. — Cypresses. — Dogs. –

Bazaars.-Shoes.— Manuscripts. — Drugs.—Arms. — Jewellery.-

Saddlery.—Pipes.— Resemblance between bazaars of Constanti-

nople and Pompeii.— Fountains.-Ablutions.-Baths.—Khans.-

Frank boarding-houses.-Seraglio.-Origin of name Sublime Porte.

- Kitchens.-Consumption of food.-Hall of Justice.-Harem.-

Door whence females were thrown into Bosphorus. - Seminary

for teaching French.-French and Austrian schools.-Fumigation

for plague.-Scutari.--Caiques.-Mosque.-Chrysopolis.-Origin

of name. Chalcedon. — Maiden's Tower. — Great cemetery. –

Private burial-grounds.-Howling dervéshes.-Dancing dervéshes.

-Sultan's attendance at mosque. — Conversation with widow of

sultan Mustapha. Sultan Mahmood. — Person.— Character.

Difficulties.-Janissaries. — Their destruction.-Conficting opin-

ions concerning them.- Present army.- Population and extent of

Turkey.-Defective policy of Mahmood.-Existing policy of Eng-

land, France, Austria and Russia.—Important crisis to Turkey -

Her future destinies. - Character of Turks. – Habits and cus-

toms.—Anecdote of an opium-eater.— Religious doctrines.-Sub-

tlety of Moslims regarding the Paraclete.-Apostasy.-Execution

of a renegade.- Prayers. — Fasts and festivals. — Pilgrimages.-

Priesthood. — Dervéshes. - Oolama. — Sheik Islam. - Oomra.-

Grand vizir.—His power and office.-Game of chess.-Déwan.-

Unjust mode of taxation. Marriage. — Seclusion of females. –

Desire for children. Jealousies. — Anecdotes.—Dress of men

and romen. - Differences between Turkish and European cus-

toms.

p. 380—445.

Rayahs.-Bératlees.-Jews.-Roman Catholics.-Greeks.—Their

numbers, personal appearance, dress and character.—Civil degrada-

tion.-Anecdote.—Present condition whence originating.-Bright-

er prospects.—Religious doctrines.—Public services.—Burial ser-

vice.- Patriarch.—Bishops and clergy.—Marriage of priests.-Cu-

rious construction of law.-Deacons.-Avarice.-Simoniacal sales.-

Chicanery.-Anecdote.—Armenians.—Their numbers.- Papal and

schismatic.” - Anecdote. - Their political influence. — Charac-